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    Posted: November-21-2010 at 2:07pm
Time for winter projects here in Iowa. First up, tear down the Ski Tique's 302 and find the tick. My plan is to take the block in to a machine shop here and have them diagnose/repair....and if we get into the lower parts of the motor, possibly stroke.

I've never physically torn down a motor myself so I thought I'd ask you guys for advice/make sure I'm doing everything correctly.

They basically want the block and told me to tear down everything else.   Can I take the motor off the bell housing and leave the trans? What is the process for doing so? I know this info is probably on the site somewhere, but I didn't find any threads so I thought I would start my own.



So far I've pulled:
Manifolds
Carb
raw waterpump
alternator
Top of the thermo housing

Had to stop there as I ran out of tape. I've been labeling all the wires as I go and marking their locations on the respective posts.

Still need to pull:
wiring
plugs/plug wires
coil
circ pump
cooling lines

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 2:15pm
Pull the tranny and then the bellhousing. No, the machine shop doesn't need those.

Label everything...I used sandwich bags and a sharpie. That's less important if you're going with all new 'inerds', but still a good idea. Even those parts you're SURE you'll remember the nature of will bite you in the end.

Also note different bolts/pieces on the same part. A notebook and camera aren't bad ideas either.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 2:40pm
Thanks Greg...You're saying to pull it all at once? Then pull the trans?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 3:16pm
What I said is for after it's out of the boat. And yes, I pull the engine and trans together; mounts and all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 5:52pm
Are you reusing the cam Chris? If so you need to keep the lifters in order as to which lifter goes to which cam lobe.Personally if your going thru all the work,get a better cam.
Keep the rods together with their caps also and make sure the main caps are back in the same place too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 6:09pm
Thanks Greg, after looking at it more it looks much easier to pull the whole thing.

Gary, I'm going to get all the accessories off and take it to a machine shop here in Des Moines. Once they can take a look into the motor and find the tick then we will make a plan for repair. If it isn't something major we will replace and put back together. If it's more serious, then we will see what our best option is.

Getting into the inside of the motor is beyond my expertise...i'm just slowly working my way through my first motor pull and leave the build to the professionals.   

Just got back in from finishing up the rest of the tear down: (atleast my part)
pulled fuel pump
Circ Pump
wiring labeled and pulled
shaft coupler removed

Thats all for today until I get my neighbor to bring over his picker and pull everything out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 6:44pm
Chris - I think you were asking if you should pull the motor with tranny still attached. I think that would be easiest, you will have more working room on the bench/stand tahn in the boat. You can leave the bell housing attached to the tranny if you want to when you separate them from the engine.

Like Greg said, label everything, put all of it in some semblance of order (like cardboard boxes), takes lots of photos, & get a good repair manual - (I have an old Chilton's & it's been worth it's weight in zddp).

Have fun, learn something, & post some photos.

PS- If you don't have anyone nearby to help you, maybe you could inquire about an auto mechanics class at the community college. The instuctor I am sure would be very helpful to you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 9:51pm
Chris get yourself a copy of this book,alot of good info
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 2:53am
Great info guys! Progress is going to stop for a couple days but I am hoping to get it pulled on wednesday or thursday and to the shop. I'll get some pictures up tomorrow night and make sure we are ready for the pull!

Edit- Gary, I saw your post about this book last week and almost ordered myself a copy. Looks like I will be getting one now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 9:52am
what will the machine shop be doing? if you are going with a new set of pistons the normal clearance is .001 to .0025, because its marine have them opened to the larger clearance...its a must! depending on the machine shop if you get a flat price the cheapest of the parts tend to go into the engine, keep an eye on these guys and if you can and have the abilities just lem them do the machining and you source the parts, alot of pistons are made in China, India and are far inferior to a piston such as a Wiseco piston....spend the big qaulity money up front so you dont have to the second time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

what will the machine shop be doing? if you are going with a new set of pistons the normal clearance is .001 to .0025, because its marine have them opened to the larger clearance...its a must! depending on the machine shop if you get a flat price the cheapest of the parts tend to go into the engine, keep an eye on these guys and if you can and have the abilities just lem them do the machining and you source the parts, alot of pistons are made in China, India and are far inferior to a piston such as a Wiseco piston....spend the big qaulity money up front so you dont have to the second time

Eric, I totally agree with sourcing the parts yourself (or at least picking the parts and buying them through the shop). Im not certain I agree with your blanket statement on the piston to cylinder wall clearance comment though. If Joe stumbles in here hopefully he will comment- but I think he would say to check with the piston manufacturer for a recommended clearance range with your specific application in mind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 12:45pm
it was a guideline and meant to go to the high side of what the piston manufacturer recommends
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 1:27pm
These last few posts are the reasons I bring stuff up here!

The guy I'm working (Jon) with seems to be a great guy. He rebuilt a buddies 318 for a southwind and did a hell of a job. Jeff (my buddy) would get a few calls every week to discuss progress and what he wanted to do next. He was always working with Jeff to make sure they had the correct parts sourced and was always open to discussing what he was doing. It's nice to find someone who has a true passion for what they do and not treat you like you're a number walking through their door.

Eric- Jon is going to find the source of the tick first and then help me decide what our best option is. If the crank is trashed- we will look into stroking. If it's something less severe we will fix it and put it back together. Either way, he will make sure I know what's going on before they make any decisions.

Photo's from last night after pulling a few more items:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PAPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 3:09pm
Not a big deal here since you are pulling the motor and tearing it down, but if you have it sitting around at all keeping the intake opening covered with tape,etc. keeps out foreign material.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 5:43pm
Thanks Jon, I actually used a buffer pad I had laying around the shop to cover everything up. Fits right between the mounting bolts for the carb!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 5:56pm
how bad was the tick and what do you think it was? I went round and round with a ticking 302 this summer. the tick started after a high rpm rev, i started in the vlave train with the second set of lifters, all new rings and bearings, couldnt find the problem. long story short, it ended up being an undersize piston that slipped thru the cracks at Ford, I re-ringed and stabbed the pistons never measuring the pistons but measured the bores and they were right on, the engine was in beautiful shape except the piston was undersize by about .038
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 5:58pm
the only reason i caught it was because i had the engine flipped and pan off and was rotating and just happen to see the piston kick at bdc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 8:28pm
Eric...Here's a video of the tique tick. I remember seeing the post about your troubles finding a tick and will be sure to have them check everything out when I drop it off. I hope it is something as simple as that but wouldn't mind making a few minor improvements!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 11:24pm
Chris I have been watching this thread closely since I also have a 302. That's one helluva tick! I am sure you will have it in top shape for next season and am looking forward to the results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-23-2010 at 10:01am
did you pull each plug wire while it was running? that at many times will isolate the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-23-2010 at 3:01pm
Eric, I did try to pull each wire....even ran it in the dark to make sure it wasn't my wires. Jon is pretty sure it's something lower in the motor. When I took it to my old man's marine guy they said the same and quoted me 4,500 to rebuild and couldn't guarantee it would be done before the end of the summer....I decided to pull it myself and take it to Jon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-23-2010 at 3:03pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

Chris I have been watching this thread closely since I also have a 302. That's one helluva tick! I am sure you will have it in top shape for next season and am looking forward to the results.


Thanks Keegan! We're hoping it will be running pretty quick in the spring!

I'll be sure not to let the guys paint my manifolds black either!    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-23-2010 at 3:24pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

Chris I have been watching this thread closely since I also have a 302. That's one helluva tick! I am sure you will have it in top shape for next season and am looking forward to the results.


Thanks Keegan! We're hoping it will be running pretty quick in the spring!

I'll be sure not to let the guys paint my manifolds black either!    


Yep you gotta watch those guys. Marty got me a can of paint that looks right. Hot Rod Green I think is the name. I need to pull them off and repaint them the right color. Of course my block and trans were painted old ford blue which is not the right color either. The waukesha blue is almost a navy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-24-2010 at 9:45am
it sorta maybe sounded like a collapsed lifter or loose stud/nut, easily checked by pulling the valve covers and putting pressure on the rocker to see if the noise softens.....the only reason I say that is because it sounds half of engine RPM, and the cam spins half engine speed.......but once again its like looking into a crystal ball. better safe than sorry though
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-25-2010 at 7:36pm
Merry Christmas guys! Got some time to work on the Ski Tique today with my Big Brother home from New York. We decided it was time to pull the motor and get the trans separated from the block.

I'll hopefully be able to get it loaded up and drag it into the Shop to find the diagnosis. I've been asking a few people here plenty of questions along the way so I thought I would share some pictures and a quick video of the pull.

Gotta cut us some slack, it was the first time we'd pulled a motor so forgive me for the shift after the initial lift. We were cutting it pretty close to the Dist. but cleared everything and it sitting on a cradle ready to go!

Ben is in the boat and I'm driving the Bobcat.




Some pictures, in reverse order.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 1:44am
You are making some good progress.

I personally couldn't stand the sight of the nasty green exhaust manifolds.
Painting the manifolds black will give you more HP though;)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:



I personally couldn't stand the sight of the nasty green exhaust manifolds.




Don't tell Keegan and Marty that!


Motor gets loaded up and taken to the shop tomorrow!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2011 at 1:53pm
Just got back from dropping off the motor at Midstate Machine is Des Moines. Should be hearing something by the end of the week or early next week. I'm hoping it's something minor but wouldn't mind going a rebuilt top end or possibly a stroker. We'll see what they say and go from there!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2011 at 3:40pm
dont let them tell you, let them show you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2011 at 3:46pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:



I personally couldn't stand the sight of the nasty green exhaust manifolds.




Don't tell Keegan and Marty that!


Motor gets loaded up and taken to the shop tomorrow!


The fresh coat of green looks pretty good I think. If it ever warms up enough to finish painting them and get them back on I will post pics.
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