Boats For Sale:
Hull Repair |
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Robb 
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Joined: July-06-2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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 Topic: Hull RepairPosted: April-18-2011 at 3:55pm |
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The bow of my boat has been worn away after multiple trailer loadings and rubbing on the bow roller. I believe the roller was too tight and not rolling which is what caused some of the wear. I'd like to know what is the preferred filler material to use for such a repair? Do I need to use an epoxy-based filler?
Thanks in advance. |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah 
Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Posted: April-18-2011 at 9:30pm |
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Robb - Please post a picture so we can evaluate the damage.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Robb
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Joined: July-06-2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posted: April-19-2011 at 12:10am |
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Sorry for the delay...........had a computer problem. Hope I remembered how to correctly upload and post the pictures.
 
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Robb
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Joined: July-06-2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posted: April-19-2011 at 12:21am |
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Whoops! I guess not. Didn't get them sized correctly. My apologies. I'll try again in my next post.........I've decided to get brave and post some stringer pictures and ask some questions.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-19-2011 at 10:00am |
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Robb,
It looks like that stem has had a few repairs done to it and done with a "soft" filler (lots of talc in the resin). Even a bow stop roller that doesn't turn should not cause that damage. This will not be a pretty repair unless you can match the paint on the boat. All the damage and the "repair" must be ground out back to the original hull glass. Straight epoxy resin for the first coat to penetrate the old, then using a high strength filled epoxy fill the depth and then just a fairing with a lighter weight sandable filled epoxy. Prime and paint. DO NOT use Marinetex. |
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Robb
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Joined: July-06-2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posted: April-19-2011 at 11:20am |
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I was thinking the same thing. I just did not want to make the same mistake by using the incorrect materials. Just so I understand correctly, is the original hull glass the mesh looking material in the picture? The paint is the least of my worries on this boat - lots of mis-matched touch up jobs, etc. Would CPES work better first, then straight resin and sandable filler? What do you recommend. I have looked on US composites, Jamestown Distributors, Rotdoctor, etc., but I have no idea what's best.
My spirits about running the boat this season are being gradually lifted. Thanks for all the help! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-19-2011 at 11:45am |
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Rob,
Yes, the rough tan is the glass portion of the hull. It needs some light grinding to roughen it up. No on the CPES - the glass is dense enough that you can use the straight epoxy as a first coat. Then the next layer should be a high density filled epoxy. USC: Aerosil-Cabosil or milled fiber. West: Colloidal Silica The final thin layer for fairing should be a low density that's easy to sand. USC: SM fairing. West: 407 low density. |
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