Boats For Sale:
Strut & Shaft Alignment |
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8122pbrainard 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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 Posted: May-02-2011 at 4:34pm |
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Rob,
When you do the stringer job, you'll have the hull on stands or on the trailer with stands. That's the time when carefull measuring is key. We really don't know what the problem with the hull is yet. Yes, probably some hull sag but is the strut or even the log really in the correct spot?? A length of 1&1/4" tubing through the strut and the log makes a great alignment tool. Don't worry about it now!!! Just keep a eye on your shaft to engine alignment until you do the stringer job. Go ahead and shim and build up the epoxy base. |
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Robb
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Joined: July-06-2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posted: May-02-2011 at 3:46pm |
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Just curious - when I replace the stringers, how do I align the hull with the unshimmed strut?? Is this a DIY project? Also, do I now go ahead and just shim the rear (~.220") and use 5200 as filler inbetween. I really want to do what's best here.
Thanks. |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-02-2011 at 12:57pm |
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Al, I'm sure you have seen shims but we were talking about them being used at the factory. It must have been this statement:
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DrCC
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Posted: May-02-2011 at 12:26pm |
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And, Where did I ever say I have not seen shims???
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eric lavine
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Posted: May-02-2011 at 9:34am |
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can someone find that article from that surveyor who claims alignment is not important? Pete did you ever get a chance to read it?
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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eric lavine
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Posted: May-02-2011 at 9:31am |
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too funny, the guy i recently did the Volvo outdrive for explicitly said "are you a certified Volvo guy?" i said no, i asked what he did, "I drive a tanker" I asked him, are you certified to haul nuclear waste, he said nope but i easily could.....i think i insulted him more than he did I
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: May-02-2011 at 9:23am |
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Al, You got lucky or rather the CC factory did!!! 
Naw, I was just trying to figure out why you've never seen shims under a strut from the factory!? When I was at Watercraft, I did plenty of prop changes. It seemed like a era when everyone was playing arount with different pitch props to find the ideal "power" or "speed" prop! With every prop change, I was instructed to do a quick alignment check by spinning the prop. This is when problems popped up and I learned about the shims from the factory!!
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DrCC
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 9:55pm |
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Wheew!!! I thought you we're going to ask for my birth certificate there for a minute!
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DrCC
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 9:48pm |
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My '66 and '74 never had shims.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 9:36pm |
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I was out of the marina work by then. We are talking about a 74 so maybe CC did some better work on locating and aligning struts by the time you got started in 75 and the reason you haven't seen shims under struts from the factory!
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DrCC
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 9:07pm |
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But, In the late 80's Trojan Yacht tried to hire me away from the 2nd Correct Craft dealer.
I refused to re-locate. |
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DrCC
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 8:59pm |
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'75-'91
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 8:48pm |
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What years? |
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DrCC
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 8:43pm |
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Two Correct Craft dealers.
The 2nd dealer sent two guys to hire me away from the first dealer. The first Correct Craft dealer being a Mr. Phil Hildebrandt Jr. |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 8:14pm |
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Al, You mentioned it way back but forgive me, what dealership did you work for? Was it a Correct Craft dealer? I was at Watercraft Sales in the late 60's and early 70's. What, did the factory send you the good hulls without shims!!
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DrCC
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Posted: May-01-2011 at 7:16pm |
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I would highly doubt the problem came from the factory.
I have aligned boats (plural), then all of a sudden, 15 to 20 years later these exact same boats will not align to the log without rear strut bolt shiming. A re-placed, improper strut could also be suspect. It is clearly bent in the pic. But that would be side 2 side, not up and down. If memory serves, The Martiniques of that vintage, had engines set further back than the Ski Nautiques. ie; Ski Nautique- 50" prop shaft. Martinique- 43"-47" prop shaft. |
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Robb
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 5:58pm |
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Yes, I went with the traditional rubber style for good or for bad.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 12:26pm |
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I agree. I still feel most of the problem came from the factory. |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 12:24pm |
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I've seen worn shafts but it's more of a burnishing. It's the cutlass that's sacrificial. A shaft will have a tolerance of plus or minus around .001". Did you install a traditional rubber cutlass?
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Robb
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 11:55am |
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Must be shaft wear then? How much is acceptable? I'm having it measured next week.
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TRBenj
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 11:31am |
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The bushings should hold the shaft pretty firmly.
No need for the prop to be on- it has nothing to do with alignment. |
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Robb
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 11:11am |
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Some afterthoughts on the alignment - is it normal to be able to still have some clearance between the shaft and the new bushings? It's not as tight as I thought it would be, as I was able to move it around a bit when trying to align it in the log. I also assume that the propeller should be on (at least very lightly) when trying to do this correctly???
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eric lavine
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 9:35am |
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well i would agree that the hull is sagging, but not that much, thats a short run from the strut to the log hole, my guess is a bent strut, you will be able to tell when you set that boat in the water and the sag should ease
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Robb
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Posted: April-30-2011 at 2:39am |
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All very good points, and I really appreciate the insight. I'm taking it all in.
I've got a lot of work to do, so I'm taking one thing at a time. I will likely have to circle back on some of this when I'm ready, but at the moment, I am focused on getting the strut and shaft measured and straightened, if both are required. After making several phone calls, I have found a shop that has experience with doing both. It will likely be Monday before I can get the parts dropped off. This weekend will likely be dedicated to fitting, cutting, and sealing my temporary secondaries. My goal is to have this boat ready by Memorial Day! If I'm lucky, I might also have a little time to hunt some morel mushrooms while the epoxy is setting up  !!
I will definitely have more questions come this Fall as to how to fix the "hull sag" before I put new stringers in. Can the hull be repaired? I see a lot of "lines" going across the width of the boat at regular intervals and continue for the entire length. Are these "flex" cracks in the gel beneath the paint due to waterlogged stringers? Is this costly to fix?? |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: April-29-2011 at 5:34pm |
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Al, Some of the people that come to the site need more help than just saying "given" and "adjust accordngly". Just trying to clear that up.
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DrCC
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Posted: April-29-2011 at 2:48pm |
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The rear mounts should be a common sense "given"
Adjust accordingly. Meaning, you should still have enough adjustment. If not, shim! |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: April-29-2011 at 2:35pm |
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Chris, I know what Al stated and has stated it again regarding just the front mounts.
What isn't mentioned is the rear mounts on the trans. As I mentioned, with just adjusting the front, the trans output shaft will be lower. This is not the direction needed. The aft mounts need to be raised as well. Do to the forward location of the aft mounts, if only the front mounts are raised, the engine "teeter taughters" and the tail end goes down. |
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DrCC
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Posted: April-29-2011 at 2:12pm |
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Whenever an old hull starts to sag, the strut will no longer line-up without shims.
When you shim a strut, you must also shim the forward motor mounts. Unless you have plenty of upward adjustment on the mounts. A one more season temp fix. Do not grind or drill holes, shim away! Don't molest your parts or hull just for one more season. |
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storm34
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Posted: April-29-2011 at 1:28pm |
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Pete - I see what Al is saying, shim the front of the motor mounts...not the strut mounts.
Al, I wouldn't call Pete's process a temporary fix. What makes you think so? |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: April-29-2011 at 12:35pm |
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Al, Rob can't even get the shaft throught the hull hole and log without it binding. Shim the front mounts only??? That will drop the ouput shaft at the trans and make it worse!! What about the aft mounts on the trans? |
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DrCC wrote: