Strut & Shaft Alignment

Yeah, you turned it around in 3 days for me last July right before my lake vacation. You did me right. Much appreciated! Any suggestions? Considering the shape everything was in prior to this, I would hope I am only helping things.

In the picture, you'll notice both lag bolts missing. These are the only ones that I have removed fearing that aren't as tight as they should be. Any temporary fix for this also?

You mean you've got add oil to it when it comes back?

Al:

Do you have the name of a product you'd recommend and where to get it? Do I simply fill the entire hole with it and then screw the lag in the new material?

Who's Billy?

I'd be concerned about epoxy not curing in a wet stringer.

Pete:

Dumb question - do you just fill the entire hole with resin and self-tap with the lag once it has hardened?

Pete:

That's what I thought - thanks for confirming. I'll give it a go tonight.

I am ready to mount the strut to its new base. Can someone provide the proper steps for bedding it with 5200? Also, is a polyurethane paint recommended for painting the inside hull/bilge?

Thanks!

Chris:

Thanks. This will be a project for tomorrow night. I didn't figure it'd be difficult - just didn't want to make a mess by putting on way too much. I also wasn't sure if the screws get snugged first and then tightened later after the 5200 starts to harden.

DrCC wrote: Robb, Why paint bilge now?   Isn't this a "one more season" fix? Just drive it till you start breaking motor mounts.

EXACTLY!!!! This is a season fix. We do not want people to get the wrong idea.

Robb,
Crank up the oven as high as it will go. 500? Of course don't put it in self clean mode!! The hour will do it. Then, work fast and have everything ready.

Robb,
With the shaft now sitting low in the log, you need to move on to aligning the engine.

I have never seen a spacer inside a packing gland!!! Looks like a PO only had enough packing to make up one ring! Yes, you should have at least 3 rings of packing. As far as the size goes, it really varies. It's almost lie CC installed what ever they had from what ever manufacturer they could buy from at the time. I suggest getting both the 1/4 and 3/16 and se what fits. It;s not expensive. I'd go with the Teflon "Gortex".

How did the coupling install go?

I believe you're right. I'm finding several "shortcuts" that the POs have taken on things. You'll be seeing them sometime in the future when I start to address some of them.

I did not get the flange coupler installed last night; I was only able to put the hose and gland (not sure what this assembly is called) on. I apologize for confusing you by using the wrong terminology - it was late, and I was depressed about the shaft sitting low after installing this.

Could the hose and gland cause the shaft to sit a little lower due to its weight or position? I was just thinking that it could slightly bias the shaft in any direction. If not, then I think the shaft log is off. Looking at it, I'm wondering if it wasn't damaged at some point and had to be reglassed. It certainly looks like it could have been. This might explain the bent strut, hull gouges (from prop), etc.

TRBenj wrote: Lots of things can influence the position of the shaft- the log hose, packing gland, the unsupported weight of the shaft itself. You need to find the position where it spins most freely in the strut- this is when its aligned, and when (hopefully) it should be centered in the shaft log.

Robb,
Tim explained it very well. I suggest cutting a V block of wood to set the forward end of the prop shaft in. This will overcome the weight and side forces from the hose to the packing gland. Move it till you find that "happy" spot again and hopefully the shaft is still pretty centered in the log from your strut project. Clamp of the V block and then go after the engine alignment.

I would recommend the virtually dripless goretex packing instead of the wax impregnated rope... its only a few bucks more.

The bushing should be used on top of the packing nut- dont leave it out. Its meant to bring the installed height of the rudder up.

Well, mounting the flange coupling did not go so good. The first time was my fault; I got in such a hurry that I started to put it on backwards, and once I noticed my mistake, it was too late. After it cooled down from piping hot to just hot, I proceeded to remove it AGAIN. Once off, I threw it back in the oven at 500 for another hour. The second time, I got to within a half an inch and that was it! Afterwards, I was able to slide the key out very easily. Suggestions?? Guess the weekend is out now................maybe Memorial Day, but I'm not holding my breath. Got a lot to put back together yet after I get this problem solved.