88 dominique

found an 88 dominique for sale with 653 hrs. wants $7900, i think i can get it for 7k. its in great shape. good deal?

thanks for the reply! here is the link to the pics. the floor is in good shape with no soft spots, not sure about the stringers.

http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=3448

is there anyway to inspect the stringers?

The original design of the removable deck lends itself to trouble. Take a camera and post some pics with the deck out.

Hope it works out.

That boat appeared several times on NH Craigslist last year. It's been up for sale for a while, like well over a year, so you could used that as a bargaining chip.

The Dominique is the Barefoot Nautique hull, but without the 454 engine, it has the 351 Ford. Not a big deal, unless your big into barefooting, but another bargaining chip. The wake will be different from a typical Ski Nautique, so make sure it works for your purposes. The plus side is it will probably be a little smoother in choppy water than a Ski Nautique would because it has a deeper vee to the hull.

It is a different boat.... a Boat with a Barefoot Hull, without a Barefoot engine and without a Barefoot name..... tough sell to most folks....

I have an '88 Dominique, and think it is a great boat. It appears you have already made, probably a good call to pass on the boat, but let me give you my experience with mine.

From my experience, it is an owner's "hands on boat". Almost any thing broken, except stringers, is owner fixable.

If you are comfortable around engines, the 351/4160 Holley will be fun because their are several mods to make maintenance, and your life easier. You can easily put in an electronic ignition module to replace the points, put on a MSD or similar spark box to solve starting and running issues, play with the different jets for the carburetor, etc. If not, expect some maintenance expense if you are paying a mechanic. Points usually last a season, cooling pump impellers have to changed out, etc. But the 351 W is very easy to work on, and is strong and reliable. Speed wise, mine is usually run at 2600 rpm, at about 34 mph (gps measured), with the original prop. This combo keeps the vacuum high enough to run on just the carb primaries. The secondary jets are pretty large on this carb and when they are opened (by vacuum) at higher rpm/speed, you can almost watch the gas gauge go down.

Correct Crafts of this era had electrical issues with wonky gauges, and the fix is elusive to me. My voltage gauge reads low and all other gauges read high. YOu can search for info on this, usually dealing with the need for a heavier ground wire to the negative bus, but it hasn't helped me.

Stringers are not that hard to check, see if the bolts on the engine mounts pull down tight. If not, then you probably have some major issues already addressed and pass on the boat. Look for vibration of the engine from loose engine mounts. If you are serious about buying the boat, have an expert adjust the engine mounts for prop shaft alignment.

That said, it is a good/great boat for most things. The wake is good for boarders, better with Fat Sacs or other source of weight. It is a joy for sunset cruising.   It is comfortable in rougher water; the v -hull allows it to track like it is on rails. It handles like a sports car. I found the original seats way to low, and have since replaced them with seats on adjustable pedestals. I have added a Fly High "Monkey Bar", since some (mine) did not come with a ski pole. The wake is good for wake boarders or for pulling tubes, but it is sort of rough for skiers, and beginners usually need a longer rope.

That boat is built like a tank, mine is now 23 three years old, but looks and runs better than new. Check out what a new v hulled Correct Craft would cost you. The few Doms that are sold seem always to be around $8000/ $8500 from what I have gathered from this site.

Maybe this helps,

Dave

Dave,
I agree with Billy on the EI conversion not being a up grade! You need a new point set every year?? I went 28 years on one of my boats!!

You had better carry a spare EI module with you - When it goes out, you can't do anthing about it. At least with a point set, you can clean them up and make it back to the dock/ramp.

Stringers not owner fixable?? Spend some time here reading about all the members who have done complete stringer jobs. There are plenty!!!

Guys,


I agree the primary and secondaries are the same size on the 4160, but the jets are smaller in the primaries of my carb. In my stock 4160, about five years old, that is the way it came. It is obviously a square bore, not a spread bore carb. It has been a long time since I rebuilt the carb and checked the jets. I was surprised at the size difference. Speed wise, the best I can manage at my rpm max is about 45 mph. I never go there, so don't really care. I have always felt that the my Dominique is propped to be a water born tractor, not a speed machine. When I run with a vacuum gauge, 2600 rpm is about where I find my highest vacuum, best fuel economy and with weight towards the front, the best speed. It seems to be the natural sweet spot with this hull/engine/prop.

Maintenance wise, I do have a Pertronic electronic igntion module which has lasted a long time, and I was replacing points every year as a precaution against breakdown. A MSD spark box has resulted in much easier starting and running with slightly overrich jetting, preventing fouled plugs. I am at about 2400 feet above sea level, not quite at the threshhold for leaner jetting (3000 feet above sea level per Holley). Both reduce maintenance for me.

If memory serves my prop is a 13 X 13, and my transmission is a B/W 72C, the heavier duty, higher horsepower one that was standard on the Barefoot model. Different props, clean or dirty hulls, water flow over the prop, propeller efficiency and transmission slippage are factors that vary by boat and affect speed.

I think the context of the stringer repair was whether to buy a boat that needed new stringers. I have seen first hand Correct Crafts getting new stringers, and decided that I would do it to my boat, but I think we would agree it is a major project. I would not recommend paying the nominal full price for a boat that needed new stringers.

I can only report my own experiences with the boat, which I believe was asked. I think my information was correct as I posted it.

I will accept all comments with appreciation.

Holley does make a conversion kit, 41-6, to convert the secondary metering plates to jets. Mine was converted when I had a speed shop rebuilt the carb. Having done so, I don't think there is any advantage to this.

As I think about it, I believe you are right about the rpm and the electrical issues. I have never checked the accuracy of the tach. I believe it is original.   To my recollection, it triggers from the MSD box, but I would think after 23 years, the jeweled movement might be a problem, connections corroded, etc, and I am thinking that the tach would probably read low.    


Thanks for pointing this out.

skidcl wrote: but I would think after 23 years, the jeweled movement might be a problem, connections corroded, etc, and I am thinking that the tach would probably read low.

Dave,
I'd say the chances are greater that it's your EI conversion that's goofing up the tach and not age. My 1954 and 1964 are fine! The one in my 1977 is new but the tach worked before I replaced all the gauges. Hook up the shop tach and see what you're turning.

yap !