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    Posted: July-11-2011 at 11:38pm
Just replaced the ac compressor in my dakota, Had the system open for about two and 1/2 minutes swapping the lines from one pump to the other. The pump did not fail. The clutch did. How important is it to evacuate the system? or can I just refill? how much oil stayed in the system. if it needs 6 oz when new or flushed how much would it need if I just swapped the pump. Was going to have my neighbor evacuate it but he is out of town, and I want to get back on the road.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wetvette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 12:10am
Hopefully you filled suction port of compressor with PAG oil. Instructions with new compressor should have told you how much to put. That will put oil in compressor when engaged the first time. If not, disconnect lines again and add oil to port. probably 4 ounces. There is still oil in system unless flushed and a little extra won't hurt. You should evacuate but no longer than system was open it will be fine. All info says evacuate so moisture will be boiled out but I have done many of my fleet vehicles when I just didn't have time to evacuate with absolutely no issues. You may have to bypass low pressure switch to get compressor to come on to help freon go in otherwise it takes forever.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 12:44am
Thanks. The oil I have comes in cans similar to freon cans and cannot be pourd in. I did notice that the shipping cap on the compressor ports was wet with oil. so I dont think it is completely dry. My plan was to attach a can of the oil. open the valve and then start the truck and turn on the air to get it sucked into the system. One can is three onces of oil. I would think that would be enough if the system was not flushed or evacuated. Then I will add the r134.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 2:15am
This aint someones elses fleet vehicle, you just ponied up for a brand new compressor you need to get the air out of that thing. Air is not a refrigerant, harbor freight sells cheap vacuum pumps these days an air operated model as cheap as 15 bucks. Dont know if they work or not but for one shot perhaps. My local mechanic can usually be talked into a vacuum and charge for about 100.. which isnt bad considering the cost of refrigerant.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wetvette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 11:41am
As I said it SHOULD be evacuated BUT the air in the system will not ruin the compressor. The moisture and contaminants are what can cause problems. I'll quote proper procedure with you all day long and most(not all ) I agree with, but, when you've got a guy who is trying to save the outrageous prices SOME shops charge to do a/c work($26-$28 a pound for freon that cost $7 a pound-most systems use 1.5-2.5 lbs) and do it himself there is certainly some fudge room on proper procedure. At worst he could do the job TWO times and still be cheaper than SOME shops. I still would invest in a $9 bottle of oil at Autozone and put some in compressor before startup.
FWIW the only compressor I've ever had fail was years ago when I was learning about A/C work and I did ALL exactly by the book. Changed dryer, orfice tube, flushed condensor, lines etc. Granted I probably did something else wrong but still the only one. and I've done hundreds. Most I follow procedure but every once in a while one comes along and you have to fudge. I'm just saying that when that happens there is enough fudge room for it to still be ok. Put oil in the compressor and if it fails let me know and I'll spring for the next one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 2:29pm
We could argue the proceedures for days, but I get enough of that at work where it is either me or guys that work for me that wrote them.   For three of the major compressor manufacturers anyway, give me another 20 years I might get to them all.

The moisture is bad, but that is gross bad as in it will break quickly from acid or icing. The air is bad as well because oxygen is an oxidizer and causes corrosion in the long term. Even the nitrogen plays its part in early failure as it raises the discharge and lowers the suction pressures which stress every component of the system.. not beyond immediate failure or the safeties but old hoses have thier limits.

I am seeing prices of $15 dollars for 12 ounces of 134a from the autoparts stores these days.. that is getting me to shy away from some of my old practices of just dumping in some charge and hoping for it to last awhile.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 3:39pm
I agree with Joe.... you need to evacuate!   if you have an autozone close by... (sorry pete :) ) they "check out" vacuum pumps in my area, might be worth checking so that you don't just have one sitting around that you don't use.   since the system was open, a nitrogen purge would help to ensure that you don't have any leaks, then evacuate away :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 3:52pm
If you are replacing the compressor it is recommended to replace the Dryer/Accumulator and if the system has an Orifice tube you have to relace too. A burned compressor more than likely would contaminate the oil, therefore to do it right, you need to flush the system. I learned how to fix the Auto AC 5 years ago, so I am no claiming to be an expert. So far I have done 6, 2 of them R12 retrofit. I have read a number of literature to understand what needs to be done. Yes, you need to evacuate the system for at least 20min, I do more. Autozone would loan you one. The moisture needs to be remove from the system in order for the R134a to work properly. Now if you where using R12a (EnviroSafe) you don't need to be concern that much about moisture, yest you need to do vaccum. Envirosafe has been an awesome finding for me. Cheaper, works at lower Hi pressure, uses less, and makes retrofit any R12 system a joke. No need to change o-rings or oil. Check out http://www.es-refrigerants.com/ if anybody is interested. I have two R12 retrofit and they blow really cold air and is a lot better retrofit than R134. I said that because R134 Hi pressure is higher, putting more stress on the compressor. Also, is totally safe. Did you know that R134 can cause testicular cancer? I bet that is if you are expose to it a lot. Anyways, just wanted to share that.



P.S. I am not associated with this company. I just excited about a great product.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 3:57pm
Also, any system opened for more than 24hrs it is recommended that the Dryer/Acuumulator be replace.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 4:01pm
1 can of R12a is $4.50.

I have my daughter 88 Volvo's running on this. So far, so good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2011 at 7:57pm
Pull a vacuum and get rid of the non condensable.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 12:19am
To what micron should an auto a/c be pulled down to? i noticed a time of 20 min. or so was given but i would say a micron gauge and a little effort could save a few dollars in the long run. Also i would weigh in the charge if it was me. But on the other hand i have seen quick jobs,no vacuum couple of cans from discount auto and away we go. still working sooo...........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 12:22am
as for the larger units i install from 1 1/2 to 15 (Still learning about the big stuff "JOES DEPARTMENT") 500 microns is standard for our company and if it will pull lower than great. But i don't believe with rubber hoses ( being porous) that it can get that low?????????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 12:50am
Is there such a thing as just a 'charge' on the system? DIY? My air works but is not as cold as it used to be.

Thanks and apologies for the thread jack.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 12:52am
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

.

Thanks and apologies for the thread jack.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 12:58am
???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 2:42am
I am not a mechanic but I have experience with this one. Before we replaced my evaparator coil last summer I was having to "charge" or add r134 a few times to get through the summer. It is easy to do. You can either purchase cans with guages and tubing attached (more expensive long term) or get a fill kit (you want the one with a pressure guage). Then you find the port on the AC system that fits the addapter. With the vehicle running and AC on connect the tubing and add refridgerant to the proper pressure, disconnect and you should be good to go. the guys (sexist) at your autoparts store can hook you up. The cans with the tubing have very good instructions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 9:36am
i see it finally hit 70 in minisoda
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 10:26am
Eric
We have been well beyond 70 a couple of times already!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 10:29am
Thanks Dave!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2011 at 10:35am
lol. i know, its been hotter than hell
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