1950 CC Junior Utility Restoration

Jack welcome to the site! We look forward to seeing the pictures. Use this thread to record your progress.

Yes, thanks to all for the quick responses. I have not yet found ser# and may not as there has been some stringer work done previous. The motor ser# if original (got to go by something), indicated the year as 50. I suppose it could be 51. I am currently removing one stringer and trying to figure what to use for replacement. Looks like the more available may be white oak. We shall see. Pictures soon I promise.

Forgot to add it is a plywood hull.

The hull is in good shape other than the bow is a bit chowdered up. The stringers were patched at some point. Not sure if for of aft section was replaced however there is a joint under front cockpit area. I want to go all the way new. It has become hard to get good quality dfir anywhere and for the slight gain in weight I believe white oak may be the answer. I have a source as I worked in the business. I don't expect this boat to see seasonal immersion again. Probably occasional use.

Sorry, I don't know what the double plank process is. Mine is a plywood hull.

Jack,
If in fact you do have a ply "junior", then its's a "standard" and not the double planked. CC had a tendency to "upgrade" many of their hulls into a deluxe version by simply adding a second layer of true mahogany planking over the top of one of their ply hulls.

As long as you have joined us, take a look through the reference section and all the old catalogs/brochures. It's a fantastic source of info.

BTW, I'm going to continue to "bug" you for pictures!!

One other thing is to NOT listen to other sites about bout building a wood boat. Talk here first and I'll walk you though it.

If you really want to get involved with wood boats, think about becoming an ACBS member. It's truly a great organization even though one of our CCfan members doesn't think the same way I do.(sorry Al!! [;))

Jack,
Thanks for the pictures. It sure looks like a non double planked Junior. No ID plate? It may be inside the dog house or on one of the port side hull frames.

I sure would not worry about replacing the stringers just because they don't run all the way forward. What I would worry about is as mentioned is that "bedding" compound CC used. There's a good chance that you will be able to unscrew the ply off the frames. The screws are the only thing holding it together with the dried out bedding. I highly recommend taking it down to the frame. If you simply do a cosmetic job on it, the seams will always open up and leak and as mentioned, a ply hull should NEVER leak. Taking it down to the frame will also allow you to take a real close look at areas where there may be rot. The lower transom frame is one as well as the inner keel.

What engine is in it? They came with several different Gray's, some Universal's and even a Chris B tagged as a Correct Craft.

Pete. i almost have a guy talked into repowering his dads original 1964 CC (chris) that was left to him in pristine condition, all the original bills of sales, nice boat,
i told him "dont you want to go faster?" lol,
because of you, i told him not to touch it

8122pbrainard wrote: Jack, One thing I can't express in words strong enough is the importance of doing everthing as close to original as possible. If not, it will not be a restoration and the boats value will be substantially lower if even existent.

Pete, I thank you for your knowledgeable advice. It is probable that I will follow much of it though at times may well go off on my own. As an experienced woodworker it would be my intention to replace any part removed and not serviceable with an exact replica. These old boats deserve nothing less. I may reserve the removal and re-installation of bottom panels for the next owner if needed. The boat is sound and after close inspection the frames would look to be fine. I intend to do the structural repairs topside and hope to flip the boat after and fair and refinish the bottom. May have a better determination as to the extent of that work at that time. Though gaining in value and appreciation the older Correct Craft plywood boats seem to fetch in the neighborhood of 10k max. This kind of return does not justify going overboard on the overhaul rather a clean and complete servicable hull will do the trick and get these beauties back on the water where they belong and not sitting on some display trailer at some show. Just my HO.

Thanks again for your sound advice and please keep it coming.

Jack

Jack,
With your last set of pictures, I now see where the stringers have been sistered!! I've seen some crazy stuff come out of the CC factory from back in the days. That may be original!!

If you find any loose bungs (wood filler on that hull) then the chances are very high that the screw below is loose as well as the ply on the frames.

8122pbrainard wrote: Jack, You haven't mentioned anything about the engine??

The engine is a 4-75 Gray Marine. I took it out the other day and my son will take it to his garage where they will run it on a crate to check systems. Will follow up with pictures.

That price seems super expensive to me. I am in NC and got 2 2x8x12' and 4 1x6x12' for $231 all D Fir. It took me a few days of calling around but eventually found a local guy that ordered it for me and I had it in hand in 3 days. Not a single knot in any of it, and the moisture content was right where it needed to be. I would keep shopping!

Some pics

That's one fine looking job you have done on the stringer replacement. Problem is on the woody the material needs to be thicker than the nominal dimension they sell the stock today. Should be closer to 1 3/4" so clean dfir framing will not suffice in my estimation. Thanks for your input DrCC. I did use similar stock on my son's tique last year and it worked just fine.

DrCC wrote: And I agree with Keegan about shopping around. Sometimes you can find certain woods that haven't sold very well in a particular area. For example there is a lumber co. not too far from me that still has mahogany from years ago for only 6.00 board ft.

Keegan is right about shopping around and I thank him for that guidance. I have determined that the difference in weight per bd ft between oak and dfir. Oak weighs in at 4.2 lb bd ft and dfir weighs in at 2.6 per bd ft. We are not talking a lot of material here so is weight really a factor? Would love to find mahogany to do it in. Far as the fasteners breaking in 40 yrs of woodworking and cabinetmaking I've learned to deal with that. What kind of mahogany was that species?

juniorwoody wrote: That's one fine looking job you have done on the stringer replacement. Problem is on the woody the material needs to be thicker than the nominal dimension they sell the stock today. Should be closer to 1 3/4" so clean dfir framing will not suffice in my estimation. Thanks for your input DrCC. I did use similar stock on my son's tique last year and it worked just fine.

Jack,
I have to disagree. Where are you getting this information?

As mentioned previously, I feel the White Oak is way overkill plus you what to go to 1&3/4 dressed??? Have you compared the flex modulus of the rather poor quality Philippine Mahogany CC used for their frames to the White Oak? It's not even African!!!

Just as a comparison, did you price out one of the Mahogany species?