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Shaft coupler won't go back on?

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rfarkash View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-10-2012 at 5:45pm
What did I do wrong? Heated coupler to 475 deg in the oven for 1 hour +, shaft in cold garage around 35 deg. Put key in slot, coupler on shaft, then had wife smack the end of drive shaft (under boat). Used shims of wood between tranny and coupler, as well as on end of shaft for protection. Only got the coupler on about half way before it stalled out.
Will have to remove and try again, but want to know what I should do differently next time.
Thanks
Ron
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2012 at 6:02pm
no burrs? you may have to heat additionally with propane or mapp gas torch
"the things you own will start to own you"
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rfarkash View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rfarkash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2012 at 7:07pm
No burrs - cleaned Id prior to heating. Will putting that much heat on the coupler
Risk warping it?
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Ron
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2012 at 7:11pm
You got it off so I would think you would be able to get it back on especially with the heat. What did the fit "mic" out too? I'd say off hand you didn't get it on quick enough. Time to start over! I've been there!


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Keep it original, Pete
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rfarkash View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rfarkash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2012 at 7:44pm
Just under .001". Not sure how much faster I can do it. Brought coupler straight from the oven
Into the boat, and wife immediately started hammering.
Probably 30 sec from oven to first hit. Stalled out after 2 minutes or so.
Should I not have the key in the shaft?
Thanks
Ron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2012 at 8:22pm
Ron - You need the key there during assembly. I'd file the key down to a looser fit, that may be the problem. When I did this operation, the coupler slid on all the way without any tapping.   I heated mine on the barbie, maybe I had it hotter. You might also want the shaft colder (put an ice bag on it, or even dry ice).

Next time, I am switching to a double taper shaft - this operation is kind of dangerous!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2012 at 8:42pm
Ron,
Just under .001" is on the tight side but still doable but, as Chris mentioned you need to get ALL of the tolerances "dialed" in before you go for the shrink fit.

Yes, the ARE double taper is a fantastic product and sure relieves us from some of our prop shaft install issues!


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politicallycorrect View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote politicallycorrect Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2012 at 11:01pm
Anybody ever try liquid nitrogen on the prop shaft? I remember my dad using it to drop sleeves into a cummins 220 he rebuilt.
Skin grows back...fiberglass doesn't!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2012 at 11:25am
it would take alot for a mapp or propane to turn it purple, know the limitations, flash heat the whole thing up in the boat after the oven, personally Ive never had to hammer one on, and have done many, normally i will put a piece of tape on the shaft for a stopping point in order to not go on so far....i gettem hot
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rfarkash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2012 at 8:17pm
The key was the key! After getting the coupler off (once more cursing under my breath), took a good look at the shaft and coupler. Hit the Id with some 400 grit paper to make sure no remaining burrs, then realized the key was hanging up in the coupler slot ( free on the shaft side). Filed the key slot to remove rust/ crap in the slot, and some corner reliefs on the key. After that key slid nicely in the coupler.
2 hours at 500f in the oven, and it slid right on , easy as pie! No hammering needed.
So for anyone tackling this job, my word of advice is check the key in both slots to make sure nothing is hanging up.
Thanks all for the help and encouragement. Now onto the alignment...
Ron
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