Another 1980 Stringer

Manifold bolt, one of the hex ones - it took 2 HSS drill bits, some oil and plenty of swearing!!

Tonali_III wrote: gR@HaM wrote: I had to drill one out today when removing the manifolds, took best part of an hour!! Head bolt or exhaust bolt?

Left handed drill bits can help so can a dremel,I use mine alot. If you guy's are finding allen headed bolts in an 80's boat I'd bet they have already been changed. My Dads 87 PCM'd boat had regular bolts. He had a hard time getting them off the first time mostly because of the center console.He then used stainless allen heads with anti seize and had no problem removing them again. 1100+ hours in salt water,he was on his 3rd set.

8122pbrainard wrote: Tonali_III wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: ski-guy wrote: Stripped the 5/16 hex on one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Guessing I'll drill off the head to get the manifold off and then have to try and drill out the shaft to use an ezee out on? Chuck, A socket head cap screw is a grade 8 or better. They are hardened so I doubt you will have any luck drilling. Grind or cut the head off with the Dremel. Then, grab the shank with vise grips since you will have the same problem drilling for an ez-out. Exhaust manifold bolts are Grade 8? Head bolts, sure, but exhaust? Tony Tony, Before you make a assumption about socket head cap screws, you may want to do some research. From the tech description: "The standard among high-strength fasteners, these screws are made from an alloy steel that's comparable to Grade 8 steel and conforms to ASTM A574. They have a black-oxide finish that provides lubricity and mild rust resistance. Screw sizes through 1" have a Class 3A thread fit. Screw sizes larger than 1" have a Class 2A thread fit. Screw sizes through 1/2" have a minimum Rockwell hardness of C39 and minimum tensile strength of 180,000 psi. Screw sizes larger than 1/2" have a minimum Rockwell hardness of C37 and minimum tensile strength of 170,000 psi. Screw length is measured from under the head." BTW, I mentioned a socket head cap screw is grade 8 or better. A grade 8 has a min. tensile of 150,000 PSI and a C33 Rockwell!!

Technical Data; Cap Screws

See Pete? I can be trained.

8122pbrainard wrote: Tonali_III wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: ski-guy wrote: Stripped the 5/16 hex on one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Guessing I'll drill off the head to get the manifold off and then have to try and drill out the shaft to use an ezee out on? Chuck, A socket head cap screw is a grade 8 or better. They are hardened so I doubt you will have any luck drilling. Grind or cut the head off with the Dremel. Then, grab the shank with vise grips since you will have the same problem drilling for an ez-out. Exhaust manifold bolts are Grade 8? Head bolts, sure, but exhaust? Tony Tony, Before you make a assumption about socket head cap screws, you may want to do some research. From the tech description: "The standard among high-strength fasteners, these screws are made from an alloy steel that's comparable to Grade 8 steel and conforms to ASTM A574. They have a black-oxide finish that provides lubricity and mild rust resistance. Screw sizes through 1" have a Class 3A thread fit. Screw sizes larger than 1" have a Class 2A thread fit. Screw sizes through 1/2" have a minimum Rockwell hardness of C39 and minimum tensile strength of 180,000 psi. Screw sizes larger than 1/2" have a minimum Rockwell hardness of C37 and minimum tensile strength of 170,000 psi. Screw length is measured from under the head." BTW, I mentioned a socket head cap screw is grade 8 or better. A grade 8 has a min. tensile of 150,000 PSI and a C33 Rockwell!!

Just like an engineer! Which book is this quoted from?
I still didn't know that an exhaust bolt was Grade 8 or equivalent. And I stand by using studs instead. Having used both, studs sre easier to work with.

gR@HaM wrote: I had to drill one out today when removing the manifolds, took best part of an hour!!

Head bolt or exhaust bolt?

8122pbrainard wrote: ski-guy wrote: Stripped the 5/16 hex on one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Guessing I'll drill off the head to get the manifold off and then have to try and drill out the shaft to use an ezee out on? Chuck, A socket head cap screw is a grade 8 or better. They are hardened so I doubt you will have any luck drilling. Grind or cut the head off with the Dremel. Then, grab the shank with vise grips since you will have the same problem drilling for an ez-out.

Exhaust manifold bolts are Grade 8? Head bolts, sure, but exhaust?

Chuck,

You might want to consider going to exhaust studs. Chrysler used them and they seem to have less trouble.

Tony

Took a break from the epoxy yesterday to take off some engine parts to clean and repaint for when the engine is ready to go back in. Stripped the 5/16 hex on one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Guessing I'll drill off the head to get the manifold off and then have to try and drill out the shaft to use an ezee out on? I am sure I'm not the first this has happened to. Didn't need this but probably not too unexpected (especially when I let my in-experienced son work on that part). Least it is only one bolt.

At one point we figured it got up to about 30mph - seems much faster when you are in it.

yes - built the squirt a while ago when my kids were much smaller - doesn't get much use now but no-one will let me get rid of it.....

Hey Chuck!

I am getting in on this a little late, but your work looks pretty good. I am glad you decided to replace the wood even if it appeared okay. Rot is caused by a fungus. Fungus has spores. These spores cannot be seen with the naked eye. If you had "pieced" a repair together, it is possible that the "good looking" wood may have contained some spores that would have led to more rot.

As for your transom drain, I have put one in my Southwind, too. It isn't original (sorry Pete), but if you trailer your boat, I am sure that you store it a little nose high. If you have a transom drain, the water will run out. Also, when sitting on the trailer and coupled to your tow vehicle, there is no guarantee that the factory installed drain is in fact the low point. Of course, following the same logic, there is no guarantee the transom drain is either.

Another benefit (and don't cringe too much everyone) is that when you are on plane and you have water in the boat from people getting in and out during playtime, you can pop the transom drain and watch the water go right out the back. This way you are not trying to remove a plug around a running engine.

My dad used to do this with our old Crestliner when I was a kid. That slurping sound still sticks in my head as the moving water drew the water out of the boat. Just don't loose the plug or forget to put it back.

ski-guy wrote: ] but I am having a furnace installed in the garage next month so should get it done for next summer (is that really a boat cost??)

Only if you never turn it on for other projects Your job looks great,I like the look of new stringers.

Chuck,
I don't really know what you would gain by adding the extra hull drain. The low spot is where CC installed the garboard drain towards the front of the engine.

With the epoxy with the cold weather, just go with a quicker hardener.

Hey, so far it's looking great!

I'm surprised that rudder port was dry.

I agree with Tim(I know yall already worked this out), the thinner materials are much easier to work with. A lightly routed edge on corners also helps.

That's a lot of glass that wasn't wettted - not a good process I guess. Any ideas on the slots that appear in the back of the board and whether I should duplicate?

Have gotten only maybe 5 hours work in the last month - although hopefully getting close with the sanding/grinding for the port side.

I cut out the rear lift wood the other day and the plywood was not really rotten at all - the heads of the bolts were pretty deteriated though.

I somehow thought the bolts would be only through the second smaller piece of plywood but they were simpy counter sunk through both.

The interesting thing is that he back piece of plywood seems to have had saw cuts every inch or so maybe 1/4 deep (except for the top ~5"). Anyone know why? I was thinking that maybe the thought was to have the fibreglass go in those groves to provide some mechanical grip (if so didn't work).



Also, finding that behind almost every piece of wood removed there is a layer of what I am calling 'rotten fibreglass' - looks like cloth with the resin extracted. Behind the plywood for the lift ring angle holder it was pretty consistantly 1/4" thick! Also under the stingers for a large potion of the length and some under the rudder wood. Is this from water damage or just not wetted in the first place?



Anyway - thinking I am getting pretty close to where the port side stringers can go in.



I think I have collected about 5 gallons of fibreglass dust so far - not to mention what has blown away or I've washed out. Hope to get another half dozen hours into this in the next couple weeks or it will be mid August befor I can do it....