Pylon removal turns into restring

Ok, before I ask I want everyone to know my question has been searched with no real answer. Im trying to remove my pylon from a 81 tique. The four vertical stainless bolts have been removed and the lower reinforcing plate is free. I moved down to the lower horizontal bolt and discovered it was missing. At this point the pylon is still concrete tight. I then drilled through the empty bolt hole to clean it out. I was thinking it was rusted away an some of the bolt was still there holing it. I then flooded it with PB blaster and let it sit. Hours later I came back with a pipe wrench(a big one) and locked on to it between the floor and the hull. I think If I put any more pressure on this thing I will twist the lower mount out of the hull. I have also hooked an engine hoist to it and applied carefull upward pressure while trying to twist and or shock it loose with a hammer. After all this theres not even a hint of movement. Any suggestions?

The pin on the bottom of the pylon is rusted into the socket glassed in the hull. Get some decent penetrating oil on it like Kroil or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.

TRBenj wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: The pin on the bottom of the pylon is rusted into the socket glassed in the hull. Get some decent penetrating oil on it like Kroil or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. That will only get you so far! The pylon I helped pull had been sitting with penetrating oil on that joint for several weeks. Still took a bar to get it to budge. Probably not a bad idea to do first regardless, though.

Man, Im scared as hell to try to move this thing with the ring and finger,I didnt measure it but Im a stout fella,I know I aplied over 200lbs of twisting force to the lower part of the pylon(two foot pipe wrench with a cheater).Ill do the home brew penetrating oil thing.Anyone else want to add to this,I'm all ears. Thanks guys

cbr1000dude wrote: I saw a guy remove a rusted 400 FP torqued bolt with a 8 foot pipe extension and a big pipe wrench once. Give me a lever long enough and a place to stand, and I'll move the world.

A professional would be using a torque multiplier. It's a common add on to the ratchet and designed for multiplying torque. You have been watching too many back yard hackers with cheater pipes on the end of wrenches not designed for the torque. DO NOT COPY THE BACK YARD HACKER METHODS.    

No, on a pylon it won't unless you came up a decent way to connect the wrench to the actual pylon.

The big multipliers are 100 to 1 so that means if you put 80 ft. lbs in, you get 8000 out.

Sweet lift setup! What is the first pic showing? Is that the bottom in the "cup" made of glass?

My 84 was tough to get out but a pry bar through the ring like Tim described worked. My pylon was already gouged up though because the PO had a barefoot boom attached to it with nothing to protect it.

Sad to see the mess under there....gonna look better and better and better.....

the next purchase for my barn, a good lift

Hey guys, I've been searching for doug fir all day today out to a fifty mile radius. The only fir I can find has a moisture content of at least ten percent. Will this be ok? Is there a way I can further drop the moisture content?

The lift is for storage purposes, while replacing and bonding stingers it will be on level stands set up at hull edges directly under windshield and at transom. It will stay on stands till all is bonded and dry. This is acceptable? Oil canning?

I read that stringers shouldn't be done on the trailer true?

Could go with a composite job too, it's $$$$, but my thought is if you're going to spend the time, why not go with composite stringers? Wouldn't they "last forever" too?

Gary S wrote: Peter no matter which way you were to do it, I don't think there is anyone out there who after going thru all that work, would put it thru the abuse that they took before we bought them.

That would be me- my 83 has had a much harder life in every way I can think of except dock rash in the five years I owned it after a rebuild than in the 24 or so before that. Further, I wouldnt consider the life it led for the first 24 years to be abuse, it had less than 400 hours and was used lightly enough that the original astroturf was very close to new condition, and the painted stripes and decals were all in good enough shape the boat almost certainly didnt spend as much time out on a lift as it does under my care.   

The way I look at it is the wood stringers in my boat lasted 31 years and wasnt a total rot out. When I replace them according to most here the rework will be better than new. In that case they ought to last longer being done better and the boat not being used as much(in my case). Im 34 and in thirty one years Ill be 65, I dont think I'm going to be worrying about boat stringers at that age. Hopefully I'll be O D ing on viagra and playing on the bank.Lol...

forvicjr wrote: On another note, I have found out there is a fiberglass boat manufacturing plant down the road from me. It's not a real big outfit but maybe I can go get some intelligence on stringer work from them also. Might also be able to purchase some supplys also.

That's pretty awesome, I'do this route.

Try tapping around the pylon base with a ballpein hammer-it worked freeing up the pylon on my '85 SN-just keep spraying,twisting and tapping-it will come out.