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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2012 at 1:54am
79TiqueRebuild - the foam was really wet in some places. I don't know if this is true of all 2001s but they put the dryer vent stuff under the floor to vent the engine compartment as well as the air box. So once the vinyl got torn, water went straight to the foam under the floor. The worst part was around the battery compartment.
I rented that engine hoist for $35 for the day. It worked out really well. Well worth the $!!

Gun-driver - I tried it that way but did not work that well for me. The sharpshooter was faster plus I could stand up and do it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote inglesideshawn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2012 at 3:50am
Hers a pic of my 89 with the new pipes ran ... the old venting had alot to do with the failure of the foam and stringers..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2012 at 8:04am
Here's my stringer thread. It's a BFN but answers many questions as I was almost a virgin to fiberglass.

Great engine lift.    


Weeding the Pumpkin Patch
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2012 at 12:33pm
Originally posted by inglesideshawn inglesideshawn wrote:

Hers a pic of my 89 with the new pipes ran ... the old venting had alot to do with the failure of the foam and stringers..

That is exactly what I plan on doing there as well as the engine vent tube.
Do you have a picture of what you did with the air box? The 89s are a little different in that the tubes are so close to the hull. Did you have to get rid of some of the foam on the side hull just above the air box in order to get a good bond with the new fiberglass and epoxy?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2012 at 12:35pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Here's my stringer thread. It's a BFN but answers many questions as I was almost a virgin to fiberglass.

Great engine lift.    


Weeding the Pumpkin Patch


Thanks. I am quite familiar with your thread. It is one of the many I have bookmarked.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote inglesideshawn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2012 at 7:27pm
The four inch pipe was the most difficult,I dident use a elbo,the bend was to sharp for the steering cable. what worked for me was to make small cuts in the pipe and epoxy them one cut at a time till I had the correct bend. the smaller ones just use elbos and its not to bad, just leave them long on bouth ends and trim them up after the foam and glass work is done.as for the air box I used the old one to use as a mold for the new one,the old one got cut out with the floor..I should of made the batter box bigger to hold either dual batts or have a storage place.
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inglesideshawn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote inglesideshawn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2012 at 7:40pm
new one just had to be trimed to fit..
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2012 at 8:00pm
Originally posted by inglesideshawn inglesideshawn wrote:

The four inch pipe was the most difficult,I dident use a elbo,the bend was to sharp for the steering cable. what worked for me was to make small cuts in the pipe and epoxy them one cut at a time till I had the correct bend. the smaller ones just use elbos and its not to bad, just leave them long on bouth ends and trim them up after the foam and glass work is done.as for the air box I used the old one to use as a mold for the new one,the old one got cut out with the floor..I should of made the batter box bigger to hold either dual batts or have a storage place.


Man, I don't know how yo could have made your battery box any bigger. There isn't much room there especially once you put the vents in.
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2012 at 8:03pm
Has anyone tried using an oscillating tool to cut out stringers? I'm really nervous about cutting them out. Unfortunately, they are not so bad that they are delaminating everywhere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2012 at 8:39pm
Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

Has anyone tried using an oscillating tool to cut out stringers? I'm really nervous about cutting them out.


I remember the feeling well. I used a cut-off wheel on a grinder, but since then guys are using a diamond wheel. Cut the seam/fillet to separate the two. I would start by looking for a place where you can see a little something underneath whether it's delaminated or just showing through thinner glass. Once you see the joint, you can follow it home.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2012 at 7:09am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

Thanks for the pic and info - very helpful. What is the advantage of fiberglass over foam? I like the idea of the floor made out of marine grade plywood - it seems stronger in my mind.

Marine isn't needed. Search the site.


Did you find your answers here?

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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2012 at 11:27am
Still haven't decided whether to use plywood over foam or just fiberglass over foam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wila74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2012 at 11:31am
Nice work!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2012 at 2:22pm
if there was no foam in these boats we would not have to do all these stringer jobs .
until they design a foam product that doesn't soak up water don't put it back in the floor.
my 2¢
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2012 at 2:29pm
I know I have this job coming up cause I know the history of my boat. I'm a believer of floatation just not foam in the current process
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2012 at 2:36pm
70% of my main stringers are good. Most of the damage is around the pylon area where there was no fiberglass on top of the stringers.   I wish I could just replace that area and be done with it but it sounds like a lot of people regret doing that in the long run. My thought is however I decide to do it - foam, no foam, plywood over foam or fiberglass over foam...it will all be better than factory and if it has lasted almost 24 years from the factory then it will last even longer after I get done with it. As long as I can get over my fear of cutting those stringers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2012 at 3:15pm
A can or 2 of liquid courage got me through my project.
I think I spent almost as much time reading stringer threads as actually working on them. Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote inglesideshawn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 1:27am
Mabe its just the 89s, but the hull kept oil canning and that was the reason for me going with the foam again..Its possible to make it better than new,you can see why the parts failed, and what should be done to keep that from happing again.. Oh and dont forget to do the platform brackets, their was just mush in their.. Make the new blocks double thick so the lags dont go through.... and mine all four were the same..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 1:36am
Shawn,

We are tearing in to our 80' Martinique project, you should stop by and give us some pointers, just down the road!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 1:37am
What is oil canning? How did you cut off the blocks? Chisel them out? Did you use 1x6s or plywood?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote inglesideshawn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 2:22am
The older boats must of had thicker glass, mine would flex with the lighest weight. That made it hard to fit the new stringers, even doing them one at a time. platform blocks were a sandwich of halfinch ply and glass,and rounded off the corners .I realy liked the diamond wheel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote inglesideshawn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 2:40am
The 80 sounds like a great winter project...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 2:49am
Originally posted by inglesideshawn inglesideshawn wrote:

The older boats must of had thicker glass, mine would flex with the lighest weight. That made it hard to fit the new stringers, even doing them one at a time. platform blocks were a sandwich of halfinch ply and glass,and rounded off the corners .I realy liked the diamond wheel.

I was going to take out both main and secondary stringers on one side only tomorrow. Should I just do one of them at a time instead?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:38pm
Got a stringer out. Couple of questions...there is a channel in the fiberglass now that the stringer is removed. Even if I grind it down there will still be a channel there, which is fine I guess because the new stringer will go right back in unless I need to move it over an 1/8" or 1/4" to allow for thicker fiberglass (several layers to attach to hull and several layers to attach floor) than what was original. I'm not sure how thick the fiberglass will be on the inside (bilge side) of the stringer and want to plan so the engine cradle will fit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:54pm
If anything, you'll need to build with modern materials to make up thickness. And that channel wasn't part of the original pop from the mold/mould? I had resin piled up in those areas, and I wanted to get back to glass(or close to it) for the rebuild.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 8:04pm
This pic is all resin piled up where the base of the stringer was. You can see where I thought I was ready...    Had to go back and cut all of that out. The dark area under the old stringer is the hull.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-16-2012 at 1:16am
Got the main stringer formed and almost ready to go in. I have this grey spattered material (gel coat or resin?) in the bilge. How do you prep that to lay fiberglass on? Just rough it up with 60-80 grit paper?   I wasn't planning on sanding the bilge smooth? Same with other side of stringer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-16-2012 at 6:11am
If the gray splatter is in the bilge area, then it's probably gel. You'll want to cut that back for new glass to adhere. I'd use 36-50 grit on a flapper wheel.

Did you figure out the canning yet? If not, think of a coke can without its inner structure(coke). The sides 'can' easily when unsupported. My guess, based on the age of your boat, is that you will have zero to minimal flex to worry about.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-16-2012 at 9:32am
Trey,
Greg is correct that the gel has got to go. You need to get down to some good glass for the new to bond to and tie into the old structurally. If you have been reading some of the stringer threads, you should have noticed this step is important. Gel is simply decorative and not strong.

How about some pictures so we can take a look. I'd hate for you to get too far and skip over some other steps.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-16-2012 at 11:37am
FWIW My suggestion to go with heavier grit is to aid a possible mechanical grip to the chemical bond. When you get down to where you want to be with the 36 grit, don't be afraid to bounce it for deeper grooves.
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