Quick Stringer Question

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   Hi members, I'm new on here and have a quick question on stringer replacement. I'm impressed by the level of knowledge and experience here on boat restoration. Here's the question: I'm currently restoring a ski boat (Malibu) and about to install the first new stringer. I've read through the many threads here and, of what detail I could find on the subject, seems most of you attach the stringer directly to the hull with thickened epoxy or poly (I'm using epoxy myself). Other boating forums suggest isolating the stringer from the hull by either using a foam strip, a flexible type bedding material like Loctite PL or 3M5200, or popsicle sticks to create a gap and only adding a fillet.

I'm inclined to do the former (direct to hull with thickened epoxy) and was wondering if there was strong feeling either was as to the correct approach.

Thanks! 

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cofooter Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: February-28-2013 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote cofooter Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Quick Stringer Question Posted: February-28-2013 at 6:40pm
	Hi members, I'm new on here and have a quick question on stringer replacement. I'm impressed by the level of knowledge and experience here on boat restoration. Here's the question: I'm currently restoring a ski boat (Malibu) and about to install the first new stringer. I've read through the many threads here and, of what detail I could find on the subject, seems most of you attach the stringer directly to the hull with thickened epoxy or poly (I'm using epoxy myself). Other boating forums suggest isolating the stringer from the hull by either using a foam strip, a flexible type bedding material like Loctite PL or 3M5200, or popsicle sticks to create a gap and only adding a fillet. I'm inclined to do the former (direct to hull with thickened epoxy) and was wondering if there was strong feeling either was as to the correct approach. Thanks!

Dreaming Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dreaming Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: February-28-2013 at 8:16pm
	The issue has been discussed before, and I believe the consensus was to attatch the stringer to the hull, I think the reason for putting in a gap was to allow some flex for stress absorption. IIRC the guru's are of the opinion that the hull in CC's is thick enough by itself to take the shock without creating skin stress. that may be different in a Bu. TRBenj will be along soon, he is one of the most knowledgeable. Welcome to the club

baitkiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: October-11-2011 Location: SW Florida Status: Offline Points: 1693	Post Options Post Reply Quote baitkiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: February-28-2013 at 9:10pm
	The tabbing schedule for an isolated grid would be robust indeed.
	Jesus was a bare-footer.............

TRBenj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184	Post Options Post Reply Quote TRBenj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: February-28-2013 at 9:28pm
	Hopefully Joe comments, he has more stringer rebuilds under his belt than most and has the ME degree to back up the theories behind the different options. Pete knows his stuff as well. My understanding is that The thing you really want to avoid is an imprecisely matched stringer bottom and hull joint. This will cause point loading. You can float the whole stringer off the hull with a thin layer of foam like the factory did, or solidly bed it along its entire length using mat or thickened resin. Most choose the latter as the stringers are then essentially glued in place for when they start glassing over them. These small, thick hulls are pretty stiff- which is how we can get away with a more solid attachment. I would wager a guess that a bu is similar enough to do the same.

cofooter Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: February-28-2013 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote cofooter Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: February-28-2013 at 10:08pm
	Thanks for the responses everyone. The Bu has quite a thick layup below the chines and into the bilge, 1/2" or so. I scribe fit the stringers so they are very close. Also, it is an outboard (Flightcraft) so there is not an inboard engine that affects the flex (if that makes a difference?). Appreciate the feedback. BTW, you guys have some beautiful boats on here. I always loved the classics.!

Quick Stringer Question

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