Coil+carb problem?

Hola, I need help!

Been having some carb issues lately, too much fuel entering. Already ordered a carb rebuild kit weeks ago but it never arrived. Ordered another one this week but won't arrive till wednesday at least. Hope to have it (temporarily) fixed tomorrow because I have clients coming sunday.

Last couple outings it started stalling in or right after a turn. But only after about a half hour of use. Must add that the coil always gets friggin' hot. Because it's not happening the first half hour or so I think it's related to the coil too, besides the carburetor. I might be totally and utterly wrong though.
Yesterday it also stalled in straight line by the way, after an hour or so. First no problem, then problem existed just in turns, later also in straight line.

Anyway; stalling in or after turns, what's all your ideas?
Thanks!

Hi, thanks for your input.
I'm with you in that I think the coil plays a role in this. I just don't understand how making a turn would influence the functioning of the coil. ??

Sander,
Have you checked the ant-siphon valve to see if it's plugged up? Junk in the tank will plug them up. If you do need to clean the tank, you will need to pull it out of the boat.

Nope, wasn't the anti siphon valve. Tried to blow air into the tank from the filter-end with a kite-pump. Didn't really manage I think but afterwards I cold easily suck fuel my way.
So I now doubt that is the problem.
It runs worse every day. Today couldn't do more than 14 mph.
I'm lost.

Electronic.
Can add that especially when accelerating the engine and whole boat vibrate and shake like it's falling apart.

Hi dwcar, thanks for your suggestion.
Yes they are, but your post made me check if they were all tightly connected, and one turned out to be a bit loose. After tightening the boat ran MUCH better again. Only small issue that it kept having was a little 'hesitating' at higher rpm's (started around 2300). Thought I was back at the initial problem (see
this thread) and that a carb rebuild could fix it.
Just to make sure I bypassed the fuel filter/water separator today to make sure the filter wasn't causing the problem. But when I did that the engine started acting up badly. Big loud bang and the engine shut off. Then started really bad, if it started it ran fine in neutral, but as soon as in I put it in gear again that noise and shutting off again.
See this video (make sure to turn up the volume)

(edit: can't seem to embed video so here is the link)

(edit 2: an electrician checked everything and problem is not electric or related)

Let me know what you think!

A friend who is a boat mechanic in the Netherlands also said he thinks it's ignition or related.
Would that explain that it runs good in neutral, also when revving up, but makes that noise and dies when put in gear?

Trip - I watched your video. I looks like bad gas to me (water in gas). Have you tried hooking up a small tank with known good gas?

Go back to basics - fuel, air, compression, spark - one is not right.

My money is on fuel.

Another thought - try checking the ground on the dizzy points plate.

Thanks! Hope to be able to check timing tomorrow, didn't find someone with strobo light this weekend.
N00b question: does electronic ignition have a points plate (and ground that I can check)? Excuse my ignorance...

On another note: today the noise and shutting down when putting in gear had disappeared! Clueless what it was. I thought maybe something got stuck in the prop, but checked today and nothing was there. But either was the problem ;)
So I'm back where I was a couple days ago; a boat that just doesn't run very well. Up to about 2000 rpm's it's OK, than it starts failing.
Please check this new video and notice how rpm's on the gauge do not keep track with real rpm's (as you can hear).

Verified today that it's not sparkplug or cables, and fuel filter/water separator.
But what IS it?!
Thanks for all your help!

generally it will rev fine without gear and runs lousy with gear it seems your dizzy its corroded inside and the advance mechanism is stuck..

I'm having somewhat similar issues.

That said, the incorrect tach reading would imply some sort of issue in the ignition. Could be a corroded connection, burnt out wire or just a bad coil.

TX Foilhead wrote: I wouldn't mine the ability to turn the muffler on and off by switching which exhaust hole its using, 2 tips but it would not use both at the same time. Got a friend with a 502 in his Crowline with the side exit exhaust and it's fun to play with, that's the only way I would consider goin to open or duals, I've spent far too much on the stereo not to be able to hear it when the boats running.

Huh?

Oh crap, now I see wrong thread.    

If the dizzy isn't loose & the advance is working, then the only way I can see how the timing would change would be for the cam timing chain to jump a tooth.