SN 196 1995 - Engine bearing problem

Hello guys,
So the engine was completely rebuild and mechanically speaking everything seems fine. However I'm still having problems starting the boat when the engine is cold. I need to open the throttle and let the engine warm-up in order for the engine to work properly. The engine also fails sometimes when going from forward to rear speed (don't know the exact term in English). I am suspecting something is going on with the IAC valve... I have found several references in other topics to the "INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader". Will this work on my engine? Will I need a cable to connect or this just plugs directly to the STO Connector?

A quick check to see if your valves are leaking, pour some diesel fuel into each port, it will either leak or stay sealed. If they leak your heads will need work. At least re lap the valves and install new valve stem seals. A leaking valve stem seal could be the source of your oil.

Old Cuda mentioned finding the source of your bearing failure. This is important or it really may happen again.
If you starved the engine by running low on oil it normally hurts the rod bearing farthest from the oil pump first. On a Chevy that is Cyl # 1. I don't know for a Ford you would have to look at your oiling system. If it failed in Cyl 7 and 8 it could be a mis fireing plug wire. Common in the Fords. New plug wires with careful routing fixes that problem.

PT Skier wrote: GaryS you are right! Thank you, I already asked my mechanic to have a look and see what are the right lifters. However, I'm still not sure if I really need them. Is there a way to see if the parts are ok? A visual inspection is enough? A precise measurement regarding length and diameter? GlassSeeker, I hope you are right... I also asked for a clarification on that.

Does this GT40 351W have a flat tappet cam?

If the answer is yes, you need to be carefull about reusing lifters that have been removed. Used lifters have to be replaced in the bores they came out of. If its too late and they are laying in pile, i would definitely replace them with new.

Another important thing to note. If the cam is damaged or severly worn, its risky to replace lifters with new ones. Your better off getting a new cam and lifters.

GaryS you are right! Thank you, I already asked my mechanic to have a look and see what are the right lifters. However, I'm still not sure if I really need them. Is there a way to see if the parts are ok? A visual inspection is enough? A precise measurement regarding length and diameter?

GlassSeeker, I hope you are right... I also asked for a clarification on that.

Be careful Summit will NOT know what is in your engine for lifters, only by you looking to see what is in there now will it be known for sure. Ford cars and trucks had them by then,the PCM marine engines never did from the factory.

Modern Piston rings seat on very smooth surfaces. Since 1990 GM and Ford with both advise NOT to rehone if your cylinders are clean and smooth. The used cylinder is a very good finish for Modern Moly rings, if you have damage or choose to run Cast Iron rings with no moly coating a re hone is advised.
If a rod bearing pounded out you may have damage on the piston above that rod bearing and damage to the crankshaft. If the rod bearing spun in it's rod the rod will need to be re sized or it will spin again in short order.
Quality parts are available and Federal Mogul is available World Wide.
For Piston Rings brand options would be: Sealed Power, Hastings or Dana, use Moly rings if available.
Rod and Main Bearings, Federal Mogul or Clevite
Gaskets Fel Pro or Victor Marine gaskets
If you move the lifters to new location or replace the lifters with the existing camshaft or a new camshaft a break in will need to be done on start up. The engine must run at 2,000 -2,500 RPM for a full 20 minutes to get the lifters seated properly to your camshaft. If you don't do this the camshaft will fail within the first 5 hours of use.

Didn't catch the location part DUH.Don't hurry it very commom parts should be able to get from 1 source .I f you can't get lifters back in their original location best to replace.Not a Ford guy so can only offer general advice Good luck on getting it back up.

If that's the case reassemble with quality parts not no name offshore junk.Look for Federal Mogal or similar quality.Plus a good oil pump would also be in order.Don't understand the lifter part did one fail/come apart?Dished bad?What does cam look like?

Unfortunately bearing damage =crank and rod damage maybe not to the eye but tolerances are too close to take a chance you'll be right in the same boat(intended) at this stage if no problem with block maybe a quick hone and engine kit would be best bet.buying everything you need 1 shot from reputable supplier. assemble and go.Gary is right that stuff is junk.

Hello guys,

Thank you so much for the inputs! So after doing a full check-up of the engine I will have to replace:
- Complete gasket set
- Main & Rod Bearings set STD
- Piston rings set
- Lifters

Can you please help me to check if these part numbers are the right ones for my engine? I get all confused with all the different engine names and numbers... it's always the same problem. I tried to match the search with the 351W reference.

My engine is the Ford 5.8L GT-40 Pro Boss EFI, from a 1995 SN.

Oops I was thinking crank sorry, still should be standard size(your mechanic will have to check that) Ford 351W not the boss.

Should be just standard Ford 5.8 bearings and caps.