Starting my trans rebuild tomorrow; ?? |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Posted: May-03-2006 at 4:29pm |
I've done some research into the forums and the manuals, and I think I know what to expect. My only question right now is how to support the engine while the trans is out?
Thanks for any help fellas. Now that this semester is over, I can't wait to get back to the lake. By the way, I own the 81 Southwind in the For Sale section. |
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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just diconnect the mounts to the tranny and leave the ones to the motor alone and put a block of wood under the oil pan towards the bell housing to support it or just pull the whole thing, engine and tranny together. The block need to be wedged a little before you remove/loosen the tranny mounts otherwise it will sag and you'll have trouble going back together.
You could also support the engine from the topside with an engine hoist, come-along, chain or the like to a rafter, tree or anything strong enough over head to support the weight. If you don't have to move the trailer while your doing the tranny. |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Thanks. I was just out there and wedging a block of wood was the best I could come up with.
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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Another method is to support the engine with 2x4's under the exhaust manifolds supported on the stringers.
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Looks like I got rained out today.
On a side note, after reading the manual from cover to cover, it says I need a bearing puller? Is this the same kind of thing I can go rent at the auto parts store? |
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Martinique87
Groupie Joined: November-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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hollywoodswole,
This is deffinitely do-able. I rebuilt mine with no prior experience and it works like a champ. Just follow the steps as outlined in the manual. The only specialty toos I bought were a gear puller, snap-ring pliers and a torque wrench. I did have the gear pressed on in the shop since I don't have a hydraulic press. One thing to look for is pitting and corrosion. If present use fine wet-or-dry sand paper to get rid of it. If the shaft is really nasty they make a thing called a speedy sleeve to cover it up. Its easy to put the pump on backwards. Before taking it apart think about using a punch to put marks on the housing and the pump cover to ensure it goes back in the correct position. One last thing, when your done and putting the cover in place be very careful not to damage the front seal with the splines on the shaft. I did just that the first time. Vince at skidim recommended covering the splines with clear packing tape, sliding the cover in place, then removing the tape. That keeps the sharp edges of the spline from damaging the seal. It worked well for me. If you have any questions just keep posting, folks here are great. Tim |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Tim is right-on
I was able to do mine without a puller or press, but ymmv Don't put interferrence-fit parts together dry, else you only get one shot. Quality snap-ring pliers and safety glasses are a must, I put my ID parts in the freezer and heated the OD parts a little with propane then the bearings slid in nicely. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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So I've run into my first "issue". I unbolted the prop shaft coupler, but still can't quite figure out how to loosen the prop shaft. I started turning on the big brass nut on the shaft, but the rubber sleeve was turning too much (I'm guessing the thrust washer is under there?). How do I move the prop shaft back far enough to slide out the tranny? Thanks guys. And happy cinco de mayo
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Martinique87
Groupie Joined: November-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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Okay, If I understand your question correctly you are trying to get the tranny removed. If so here's the deal
Remove the four bolts connecting the tranny to the shaft Put a bottle jack on the stringer under an exhaust manifold, and have some 4X4's or something similar to put under the enginge later. Remove the bolts on the transmission mount so that it can be removed when ready (leave the "wings" on and they will be your handle to carry the thing out of the boat) Next loosen the nuts on the engine mounts and give the vertical bolts a wack with a hammer....this allows the engine mounts to rotate. Use the bottle jack to raise the rear of the engine enough so that the flange clears the driveshaft. Put the wood under the engine to keep it in place. Unbolt the tranny from the belhousing. Note, half of them are nuts the other half are studs. The studs stay in place so you have something to line up with during the reinstall. Grab onto the wings and pull the tranny away from the engine and be ready to lift about 100 pounds. When you re-install you will have to do an engine alignment too...again,not so bad. Hang in there, you'll get it. Tim |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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SUCCESS! Well, in getting it out of the boat. At least now I don't have to sit out in the sun while I work on it. More to come...
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Ok, so i've taken apart the tranny, and nothing appears broken or out of the ordinary. The last thing for me to check is the forward piston (I can't get it out til I have a compressor). Is there anything else that I need to look at?
To go back a few months, my symptoms were: 1. Reverse works fine 2. Forward will turn the prop, but only at idle, not under load. When you throttle, the shaft stays spinning at the same speed, while the engine just revs. ??? Thanks |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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I hope none of these questions seem to elementary, but we can't figure this thing out. Our compressor can only go up to 100 psi. Is that enough to get out the forward clutch? And even then, how do you cover the other two holes so air doesnt escape?
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Sounds to me like you are describing the reverse piston. I suspect you havn't found the forward clutch piston yet.
When together, a pressure guage on the rearward port would have indicated whether the piston seal went, or the forward disks went. Stand on the piston so it don't hit you in the face...in only takes a little air. perhaps I overspoke, are you talking of the holes in the case adapter or input shaft? |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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Martinique87
Groupie Joined: November-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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I went into mine assuming I had a clutch problem but what I really had was a lot of junk in the forward cylinder and a corroded fowrad piston. Becasue of that my 125 psi compressor wouldnt do the job, I had to persuade it a little.
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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GottaSki,
I don't have a pic of the part, but if you look at the exploded view in the manual, I believe it's #84 (pg 12 of the manual). It's also the pic found here in TexasBob's album. I can't get it out. |
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Martinique87
Groupie Joined: November-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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hollywoodswole,
I beleive that's your forward clutch cylinder. Are you tyring to get the piston out of the cylinder or remove the cylinder and piston? If your removing the piston I assume you've plugged all of the place where air escapes when you use the compressor. As I mentioned before,mine was really stuck in there. Removing the piston was a two person operation, one to plug the holes, the other to use the compressor and tug on the piston. |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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First needed to first tap the cylinder in a little to relieve pressure on the large snap ring before it would budge.
To remove the forward cyllinder from the ring rear I just supported the outer edge of the ring rear and used a block of wood on the inner snout of the cyllinder to tap it out. I had to get a little fresh with mine with a 1-pound hammer on the wood block. Once flush, I flipped it over and used the mass of the assembly and brought the block to bear agaist the concrete floor and it tapped itself out the rest of the way. My piston was in good shape, just grabbed a non-critical area with some channel locks and rotated the piston , gently pulling and it slid out. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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john33617
Senior Member Joined: July-07-2004 Status: Offline Points: 182 |
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http://www.amarket.com/imabw071.htm
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Bob's2001
Senior Member Joined: March-28-2005 Location: Lake Jackson TX Status: Offline Points: 241 |
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I got mine apart using compressed air. I have a blowgun with a rubber tip so it would seal pretty good against the hole. Gave it a couple of squirts and it popped out.
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Bob Ed
83 2001 |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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The latest update:
I took a week off because of graduation and my birthday, and got back to it today. We got everything disassembled, and found the culprit. It was a broken clutch spring (#79 in the exploded view in the manual). All that for a part that costs $25. I'll start the reassembly on thurs, and hope to be testing it on friday. I'll keep y'all updated since I know there are people that may want to try this at home. Thanks for all the help so far. |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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yikes 25 bucks? its only 10 at ebasicpower.
How did it break? Did the pressure-plate saw through the tangs? Hope you are putting in new clutch disks, else it will happen again. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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I'm really not sure how it broke, but when I took it all apart, it was the only broken piece. I did install a new forward clutch pack, as well as the rear clutch disk, even though they weren't broken. I don't ever wanna have to take this thing out again. I'm in the process of putting the pump back on, and it'll be back in tomorrow.
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Cool; I'll be water testing my trans this weekend if the rain holds off. I added a remote oil filter to the cooler line; I concur, don't want to rebuild again for another 24 years.
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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hollywoodswole
Newbie Joined: December-06-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Awesome. I wish you luck also, although you sound a lot more experienced. Putting it back in was not nearly as hard as getting it out. I managed to lift it in and get it bolted up by myself (unfortunately, I bolted the oil pump on backwards the first time - i thought my engine was left-hand rotation when it says right-hand on the tag). Y'all enjoy your weekend and I'll have some pics up soon that may help.
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