looks like my riser gaskets are leaking

I pulled the manifolds off my '87 (Motors an '88) this fall, as far as I know they were original with about 600 hours, the manifolds rusted through and hydrolocked the motor. Three days in a row of applying home made 50/50 acetone/trans fluid and the manifold bolts spun out easy with a allen socket and a standard socket wrench. No heat, no impact. Same for the riser bolts. All of the bolts could have been re-used. You just never know until you try. I seem to have lucked out on everything else too. We put several hours on with the new manifolds and no apparent ill effects from the hydrolock.

Great idea Chris then he can pull the heads to get the broken manifold to head bolts too . I look at my 95's bolts and would like to change them but I don't need a big project this year

phatsat67 wrote: Hey, check your PM, got a buddy with an Atom skier question.

The question has been answered. I have also answered it several times here on site.

baitkiller wrote: step 1) One really good smack with a hammer. step 2) Fire up the rose bud and get the manifold thread section red hot. step 4) Grab the nub with your Snap On 410 round stock pliers (cause there aint no room for a stud tool) and spin them right out.

All I have a propane torch. Will that work? I'm assuming you mean for me to heat up the manifold not the remaining bolt?

I don't have the snap on, so my craftsman channel locks will have to do.

I have some of those bolt-out tools that I may also use on the remainder of the bolt. I feel they'll bite more than the pliers.

What's step 3?

What a PIA.

I'll be attempting again either Friday or Saturday.

I dunno. Looks like plenty of stud to work with to me. This from a 20 year salt water boat wrench who only worked on corroded, broken stuck crap.
step 1) One really good smack with a hammer.
step 2) Fire up the rose bud and get the manifold thread section red hot.
step 4) Grab the nub with your Snap On 410 round stock pliers (cause there aint no room for a stud tool) and spin them right out.

If you bugger it up and have to drill I suggest using a left hand bit with the manifold super hot. Good tools make for good luck.

If I had to pull it off the engine it goes in the dumpster. Time vs $ at that point.

JP,
The hardest part of drilling out broken studs is getting the drill centered in the stud. I have a set of transfer punches that will get you close by eye. Even better is to set the manifold up in a mill where you can actually dial indicate the center. Don't drill any larger than the tap drill size. I have been pretty lucky with being able to remove the threaded section of bolt from the hole after drilling and then chasing the threaded hole. If you must use an insert, don't use a "heli-coil. There are plenty of good inserts that you can use a standard size tap and not have to buy heli-coils damn special tap as well as their damn special pricing.

If you fail at removing them you'll need to get a kit to heli-coil the threads back into the manifold to save it. Ideal set up for drilling out those would be a drill press but if you are pretty steady you could get it done with a hand drill I guess. I've done it plenty of times.

Ehh broken off stuff is different Pete. Clearly the preferred method is a stud removal kit but for as little as I need something like that the cost is high for a quality set.

Can't remember exactly but I am pretty sure all those years ago I did use anti seize on mine when I re assembled them. I just squirted shiny black emeron on them but since they don't leak I left the risers in place.

Would studs work on the risers? Then the threads are external & wouldn't corrode so badly.

Ohhh common Pete!!! Vice grips are a life saver. Used that method successfully 100s of times.

If anyone has problems with the exhaust manifold bolts, cut the heads off, remove the manifold and use a stud removal tool.. Dump the vise grips!! Yes on a penetrating oil but go with the 50/50 acetone/ATF as mentioned here. Forget the PB!!

8122pbrainard wrote: Jonny Quest wrote: I'm a little concerned with stainless bolts in a carbon steel block...particularly in a high heat environment. Any thoughts? JQ What is your concern?

Rob,
I see you have been on site but maybe missed my question?

My run will be for more beer!

Cross tighten the bolts. I believe the torque is something really low like 24ft-lbs on the risers.

I did not use any gasket sealer on the newer style graphite gaskets FWIW.

Don't worry they will be fine especially with the anti seize and so would the originals if you used the anti seize. Just check them once in awhile for tightness