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84 fish nautique information

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    Posted: April-21-2015 at 9:04am
Hi I am a new fish nautique owner seeking information on my boat. Powered by a 5.7 350cu . My question is what size shaft and what propeller was original equipment. I am wanting to get rid of some vibration i suspect is from a worn cutlass bearing. Thanks for any info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mountain Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2015 at 2:59pm
Congratulations on the Fish purchase! I have a 86/87 Fish. Here is a link that Hollywood posted up several weeks ago that has both the shaft and rudder dimensions for some of the older models. The info pre-dates our boats, but is probably still accurate. Now being equipped with a 350 rather than a 351 many other things may have been changed as well when it was re-powered. What transmission and engine rotation do you have? I have a couple of the original props (original and spare) and will check them for you - but it will be several weeks as I'm in NC and the boat is in GA.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/95/Correct_Craft_List.jpg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2015 at 7:31pm
John,
Welcome to CCfan. Pictures are welcome!

Here's the link to the hardware.

Regarding the vibration, besides the cutlass, check you shaft and get the prop checked. The shaft should not run out anymore that .003". When the prop comes back, make sure you lap it back onto the shaft.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eyefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2015 at 10:40pm
Thank for the help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2015 at 10:49pm
You snagged that one from PC heh? I had my eye on that listing. Need to replace my previous offshore boat but really holding out for a Shamrock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eyefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2015 at 10:52pm
Yes...there was a 26ft shamrock in pc too for 15000.
I went with the nautique because of the new engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eyefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2015 at 10:57pm
Really thinking about a new shaft prop and bearing just to be as smooth as possibly. Just downsized from a 42ft and love the fact that the parts for this boat are available and reasonable. The simplicity in design is another thing i really like about this boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 12:12am
Originally posted by eyefish eyefish wrote:

Really thinking about a new shaft

If you do go for a new shaft, I suggest the double taper ARE shaft system.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eyefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 12:35am
What is the advantage.   I assume the od of the shaft is the larger than the 1 1/8 dia.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 1:53am
I saw that boat last night while googleing stuff.
looked to be a good boat for what they were asking.
congrats.
as far as the shaft goes the factory should have been a 1.125" at least thats whats in my 78 fish.
The ARE has a different stye hub that doesn't doesn't have a clearance fit like the factory one does. instead it fits on the same way the wheel would bolt up with a taper. I don't know what the track record is for these coming apart but a lot of the guys seem to like them because they are easy to remove and replace. dont hit anything and you wont have to replace it haha.

Is the engine properly aligned? if they just put a new motor in theres a chance it may not have been checked after it was run for a bit. post moe pictures, i like seeing other peoples FNs, gives me ideas and makes me realize things that are wrong with mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eyefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 10:20am
I guess the temptation for me is to tear apart and replace anything suspect. I am not naturally that way . Just have been staring at the back of a boat us boat more than i would care to think about without the recurring nightmares to start up.
Then again i bought this for my sons to use fishing so i will probably replace the drive system soon enough anyway since they are masters of destruction.
Im not paranoid but i have seatow, boat us, towing through my ins co. And a tow strap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 12:04pm
you said that was an 84, does it have the tank above the deck in the stern?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 12:13pm
Originally posted by eyefish eyefish wrote:

I guess the temptation for me is to tear apart and replace anything suspect. I am not naturally that way . Just have been staring at the back of a boat us boat more than i would care to think about without the recurring nightmares to start up.
Then again i bought this for my sons to use fishing so i will probably replace the drive system soon enough anyway since they are masters of destruction.
Im not paranoid but i have seatow, boat us, towing through my ins co. And a tow strap.


I understand the worry factor, especially being out on the open ocean. However, if you get the motor set up and running right, you should not have a problem. In most cases the Fish Nautique has the EXACT same motor that is in about a bazillion Ski Nautique ski boats, and they fire up and run flawlessly for years and years and years. Some do that with a lot of neglect and no maintenance by their owners. These engines are bullet proof.

Same with the drive-train. With minimal care the transmission will run forever. It is EXTREMELY rare to see any kind of failure with the drive shaft, shaft log, strut or rudder (unless of course you hit something or run aground). Again their are a couple of simple maintenance items that if you take care of it will run forever.

As testament, my Dad has a 1964 Ski Nautique with a Y-Block 312 Ford Interceptor marine conversion, that has run like a champ for 50+ years! Remember there were a lot fewer Ford Y-Blocks produced then Ford 351 motors.

EDIT: Okay so I see you have the Chevy 350. Still a solid engine, way more produced then the Y-Blocks...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 7:27pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

If you do go for a new shaft, I suggest the double taper ARE shaft system.

Originally posted by eyefish eyefish wrote:

What is the advantage.   I assume the od of the shaft is the larger than the 1 1/8 dia.

Originally posted by DayTony DayTony wrote:

doesn't have a clearance fit like the factory one does.

First, the single taper prop shaft does NOT have a clearance fit at the trans hub. It's a INTERFERENCE fit that is ether pressed on or heat shrunk to the shaft. If you can pull the hub off easily, the hub and shaft are fretted due to misalignment.

The ARE double taper shaft system eliminates all the hassle of the interference fit R&R.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2015 at 8:01pm
A prop shop should be able to dial indicate your current prop shaft to measure the runout.   It might be OK as is. A 1-1/8 ARE won't be cheap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eyefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2015 at 9:13am
Repacked the stuffing box last night. Was pretty much empty. That did stop the constant drip. The hub looks like it was on the mayflower. Will replace soon. Thanks for the info on the tapered shaft like the tolerance fit is the direction i will go. I ran the boat at wot . Rpm was 3300 at about 32 mph. I would think it would wind out a little tighter than that. Im not sure the linkage is giving me a true wot. What rpm should it top out at. Has anyone played with the props and gotten better performance than oem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2015 at 11:27am
i'm not positive on that engines exact numbers but it should be more than that, do you know what wheel you are running? I think those came with a 14x10.
My fish has the ford motor and I try and cruise about 3200 RPM which when i'm fully loaded with fuel and gear its barely on plane at that RPM, so its usually more like upper 3s to 4000.
I believe i am propped wrong though. So dont base anything off that. Mine has a 13x9, been trying to find a 14x10 to bolt up and get some numbers without having to buy a new one but they are not really around used.
You said the engine was recently replaced, was it rebuilt or replaced? and what was done and what was used or changed? get some pictures of the motor and gear.

You should Post some more pictures!

edit, pbrain thanks for the correction on that i don't even know what i was thinking. I'm a machinist i should know this crap haha. *
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2015 at 11:29am
Yeah, RPM should be much higher than that. Speed is in the ballbark for that boat, but
I suspect your tach is wrong or its highly overpropped.

1 mph for every 100rpm is ski boat territory.

Your should be seeing about 4600 rpm max.

You could be overpropped. If it is lugging that bad, it is fatiguing the engine unnecessarily, likely using too much fuel, and you have some great performance to unlock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2015 at 1:32pm
when i first go mine it would not rev more than 3k and i couldnt even get on plane, it was a multitude of things working against each other. I fixed everything in this order.
FIRST of all the trim tabs were not working and I had a full load of fuel and ice. which on a good day is tough without use of trim tabs.
second my manifold/riser setup was so wrong it was locking up a LOT of HP. bought factory stuff.
third, my timing,wrong,
fourth my carb metering plates were corroded so bad i can't believe it even ran.
5th the intake was off a pickup truck or something from when they replaced the top end, i replaced with a edelbrock performer.
6th it had eccell wires in it. so i threw those out and bought a set of oems.
7th it was overheating bad, had the wrong t stat in it.
then the prop which i;m still ignoring for the time being.

I'm not saying you have these problems but i'm more or less pointing out you can have a lot of different things that can cause this issue rather than one single item that will fix all your problems.
Buy a used boat, buy someones untold problems. there is no way around that truth no matter how much you spend.
heck you buy a new boat and your buying unforeseen problems so there is no happy ground.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jblocal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 1:01pm
You should be getting way better numbers than that. Just put new acme prop on mine and can top out at 35 knots. Cruise at 3200 about 28 knots. Tabs are a must with this boat to keep the bow down in chop. I can get on plane 12-14 knots. The acme prop was one of the best investments. 351w
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eyefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 2:21pm
Yes i think 60 or 70 gal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 1:35am
Originally posted by jblocal jblocal wrote:

You should be getting way better numbers than that. Just put new acme prop on mine and can top out at 35 knots. Cruise at 3200 about 28 knots. Tabs are a must with this boat to keep the bow down in chop. I can get on plane 12-14 knots. The acme prop was one of the best investments. 351w


Which prop are you running?
and what year is your fish?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jblocal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2015 at 9:13pm
Running the acme #524 and it's a 87
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john_33612 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2015 at 1:31pm
I have an 86 FN , 351 , with the prop guard , do you think the 524 , 13x11.5 will lug the engine to much or should I go with the 910 , 13x10.5 , and did the 524 make a big difference , I have the stock 14x11 , 23 mph at 2600 rpm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john_33612 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2015 at 4:20pm
mako 236 thread on this subject http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27978
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jblocal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 8:30pm
The acme 524 made a pretty big differce from the stock 14x11. Better hole shot and top end. Much smoother and boat seems ride better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jblocal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 8:33pm
I don't think it will lug your engine at all but I don't know much about the prop gaurd and how much that hurts performance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john_33612 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 8:49pm
thanks , I'm going to order the 524 , delta has it for $369 , $350 with the CCF discount
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