4 BARREL HOLLEY CARB ADJUSTMENT

Go gently to the stop (where they bottom out), then bring them 1.5 turns out... That's usually a pretty good starting point.

Adjust idle level to ~700-750 and then adjust the 2 idle mixture screws for max vacuum. Then set idle level to 650 or so in gear.

Tim gots you covered

Seems to be working for me.

Had the same leak when we had our 85. I put JB Weld on it and never looked back. It didn't leak again.

Jb weld.

If you can't restart after running, check for idle and post-shut down dripping. Going wide open (not pumping!) will clear a flooded condition and allow a restart. Drippin is caused by a leaky needle/seat or a maladjusted or stuck float.

no I am a bit of a pack rat. But check out the picture. There is nothing to adjust or change on the inlet port. It is leaking cause the round metal plate is not sealing the round hole that the arrow is pointing to. As I mentioned that all looks to be pressed in at the factory.

Are you pretty sure it's not just the adapter fitting leaking?

If it is, in fact, literally coming from exactly where you left side arrow is pointing, that's part of the bowl casting. The pic almost does look like a crack is there. That may be a situation where you need a new primary bowl, but maybe you could attempt a JB Weld fix first.

When you talk about how the fuel inlet setup is different from the rebuild kit instructions, it's probably just because yours is a Marine application. The instructions and books tend to be a little more generic, and may show a picture of a street application.

I saw the JB weld post. I have never had much luck with JB Weld. on the Holley forum a reply thought it was a bad idea, especially on a boat. I don't have a "squirt" at this leak spot, it is more like a weeping. You can see the metal change color and it takes quite a while to even drip. But I can wipe the "wet" color off and watch it appear again. You can kinda see the color change from fuel weeping in the picture. It seems to be accumulating around the casting seam going vertical, just below the arrow. Slightly darker.

I did not change anything INSIDE the carb. Can you explain where the "needle seat" is. The first picture of this post is from above, and you can kinda see inside. There are several videos I watched and most of the guys called the large screw in the center of the main ports a "squirter". I did see on the video that the squirter has 2 O-rings, so I am gonna go back and remove the carb and take the squirter out. and check my renew kit for that size o-ring. From the vids I understand that the squirters come in varying sizes for tuning.

I am gonna trust that the boat builder or engine designer got that right 15 years ago.

Thanks for the drawing. From the 1st photo, my carb's "needle seat" seal on top of the primary bowl is similar to the inlet seal on the side (that is weeping). Again a metal disk wedged into the bowl case. I did not dismantle the innards of the bowl. I would assume, if the needle seat is serviceable on this carb, it has to be done from the inside.

I am not against the JB Weld, I will probably try it so I can to move on to the next issue. Even if it is short term.

In summary, it sounds like you are seeing 3 total leaks?

1.) (Exterior) The arrow on the right is the "welch" plug or whatever, that is prone to weeping, but can be fixed with JB Weld. It may clear itself too if it's not too bad. Mine started the season weeping and seems to have stopped.

2.) (Exterior) The arrow on the left, the fuel inlet "fitting." It's pretty rare for these to leak, I'm thinking it could be the adapter fitting. The fuel inlet is part of the bowl, and if it's actually leaking there, I'm not sure how JB Weldable that is. It might require a new bowl.

3.) (Interior) If you are seeing dripping out of the "boosters" going down the primary (front two of the four) barrels. This would be a needle and seat issue most likely. You're not going to fix this with JB Weld. You have to take the bowl off and replace or clean your needle and seat.

So you can't get the boat to start at all now? If it's flooded, pumping the throttle while cranking isn't going to help your cause. Like Tim mentioned above, move the throttle to wide-open, and leave it there while cranking. Don't pump it.

The only thing I can see in the video is your accelerator pumps squirting when your wife moves the throttle. This is normal (but also why you don't want to pump the throttle on a flooded engine). Unfortunately, the isn't what we're looking for. You need to have the engine running to look to see if fuel is dripping out of the boosters at IDLE. These are the rings that are right in the middle of the barrels.

IF the boosters are leaking, then you would want to pull off the float bowl and clean or replace the needle and seat. I would think there would have been a new needle/seat in your carb renew kit.

https://youtu.be/qrgg9CeK49Y

anyone know an answer to the above video question?

I have the carb on the bench for the second time now. As it turns out I had several pieces that I could have used. I have dismantled both bowls and replaced the "fuel inlet valve and seats". The question above deals with the " pump discharge nozzle gaskets" in the main port.

4 barrel? NOT

this video is asking about the 4 barrel operation. I see no way for the 2 secondary ports to open.... Do they open via engine vacuum?


thanks,

Clark

So with the carb off of the boat, An electronic choke test might be to put 12volts to the choke terminals and I should begin to see movement?

Anyone have time to check out my videos a couple posts up?

Well I tried to contact Holley on the washers. But i think you are right, i just have to go with what i got. I will do the squirter and washers last and wait for an answer. I'll do the JB Weld job and primary bowl jet tonight.

I have a 12v drill battery so i rigged it up and watched the bi-metal spring do it's thing. It un winds itself. Tuff to find the tension point to set the cold choke plate point. But i got it. Attached the battery and within a minute it opened. Took the battery loose and in about 5 minutes the plate returned to 1/8".

Yee haw something is right!

Boring Video link watching the electric choke work.
http://youtu.be/rCdOHdA0jxw

HOT DAMN> The 2nd time is the charm. I re-attached the carb to night. I tried and tried and tried to start it, but nothing. Then I went to find some jumper cables and left the key on and the choke opened up. Hooked the jumper cables to the battery and she fired up.

I re-adjusted the pump that is actuated by the throttle. It was too tight and seemed to be mal-adjusted from the PO.

So now I will read up on the fine tuning. It is idling alittle low and lumpy. But I am happy as hell that she started. Even the re-starts are quick and responsive. previously it would turn and turn and finally start.

I am very happy, thanks to all. If I can't get it smoothed out, I will be back.

Clark