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New engine options 66 Mustang

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    Posted: July-10-2015 at 1:00pm
Hey guys, my brother and I have had a 66 Mustang for quite a while but at some point one of us neglected to completely open the petcocks on the block and have a cracked block as a result. Of course, not happy at all but after it sitting dormant for a few years I'm getting the itch to get the boat running again.
I'd like to stay classic-ish but at the same time would like reliability - it was always a bit of a chore to get and keep it running. It's a reverse rotation engine 289 Ford, and while I replaced the carb before the cracked block, I'm not opposed to a fuel injected engine because it always seemed like the rear plugs were on the verge of hydro lock while the front plugs were quite dry. I figure a port type injection system will address that issue.
Additionally, the raw water pump elements have disintegrated and rebuild kits for that model pump (cast oil pan mounted/belt driven) are NLA.

Essentially, what it boils down to is I feel like I have an opportunity to start fresh and integrate 50+ years of basic advancements to where it's a turn-key toy, not a day long operation to get it running to spend a day on the lake.

I've spent several hours looking around on the internet but it seems the majority of people keep things bone stock/as built. Is it really that uncommon to update the fuel system, electrical, and cooling systems to semi modern standards? I guess I'm trying to not completely reinvent the wheel if people have been there/done that. Because the boat's only 16' it doesn't need much power - I'm thinking low 200s. Any more would probably overpower the frame rails anyway.

Thanks!

Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 1:26pm
I'll kick this off....let's see some pictures of the Stang. Most here are going to recommend staying with a period correct power plant. It's certainly your boat and you can do whatever you like, but I wouldn't change it over to something newer just because you're under the assumption that an older engine with points ignition and a carburetor is an impossible feat to get running well. I'd get a block and rebuild it. Save a whole bunch of money for gas to use the boat.

You're just down the road from me. Where do you boat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 1:37pm
I don't think you have to go nuts.

Good fuel filtration, new carb, hot spark fresh damper, good HT wires, reliable manifolds gets one a reliable engine without FI.

Not going to find a 220hp FI powerplant anyway
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amesser325 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 2:45pm
Craig,

Funny - I work in Columbus and commute from Bloomington. Once I get it running I'll either head to Monroe or Lemon, though I think the size of the boat is more suited to Lemon.





I put a new axle on the trailer to convert to the Ford bolt pattern (sticking with the Ford wheels since the engine will be a Ford!) and will be putting fenders and springs on it once I make time. Again, looking to smartly upgrade without going over the top. The old axle/wheel bearings were special order and the tires were bias ply. Changing to 1980s technology was good enough to make it function and be serviceable. Sitting there without an engine does not exactly make me want to get the trailer working just yet.

GottaSki -
Fair points, it's just that those were the things I was chasing before the crack. The ignition system was converted to electronic (Mallory optical) by the PO but never seemed to deliver good spark. Parts for it have gone NLA.
As far as EFI, I was thinking 90s 5.0 as a base. I know changing the cam to reverse rotation could have a big impact on power but they were rated around 200 and the rudimentary controls would probably be relatively decent on adaptation.

Really, I'm not dead set on any particular direction. If newer parts such as a distributor that have service parts available will work well, I'm game.

Thanks!

Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 4:06pm
That's funny, I'm sure we probably work for the same company then.

Cool boat. That trailer is something else though!
Craig
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 4:11pm
You can put an early 302 block and use all your RH inards. The blocks are the same.
Later ones with the one piece rear mains are a little different.

Its one of the most pentiful engines so you should be in good shape.

BTW, Edlebrocks don''t like angle, especially a tique or mustang. Get a Marine Holley or get a wedge plate.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 7:16pm
Are you sure it's a 289 and not a 260? What's the distance between the top two bolts on the bell housing?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

You can put an early 302 block and use all your RH inards. The blocks are the same.

+1


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 8:12pm
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

Are you sure it's a 289 and not a 260? What's the distance between the top two bolts on the bell housing?

The same crossed my mind.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

You can put an early 302 block and use all your RH inards. The blocks are the same.

_1

BTW, before you continue, how are the stringers?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2015 at 10:10pm
Indeed, stringers as Pete advised!

Also, 260/289/ 302 all have the same deck height, so that external measurement would be inconclusive.


(221,260,289 share same stroke, 289,302 share same bore)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amesser325 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2015 at 12:47pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

Are you sure it's a 289 and not a 260? What's the distance between the top two bolts on the bell housing?

The same crossed my mind.


Definitely a 289. I rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago and had the bores cleaned up and heads rebuilt.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amesser325 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2015 at 12:50pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

You can put an early 302 block and use all your RH inards. The blocks are the same.

_1

BTW, before you continue, how are the stringers?


The stringers are in great shape, - the whole boat is. Minus the engine...

It could use a refresh of the gel coat but it's a 50 year old boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2015 at 1:02pm
Originally posted by amesser325 amesser325 wrote:

The stringers are in great shape, - the whole boat is. Minus the engine...

That's great to hear but I'm curious on how you checked them?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amesser325 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2015 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by amesser325 amesser325 wrote:

The stringers are in great shape, - the whole boat is. Minus the engine...

That's great to hear but I'm curious on how you checked them?


Visual - looking for cracks/damage and dark spots through the glass, plus hammer taps and trying to flex them with pry bars.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2015 at 1:48pm
Andy,
The tapping method listening for a hollow sound is a good one. There's even a link to a thread on it in FAQ thread. I'm not too sure about looking for dark spots due to the gel covering the bilge. In some cases, using a hole saw to remove the glass from the wood and get sample wood from the pilot drill is needed. Then you can also access the wood to use a moisture meter on it.

Do you know why the hull has been bottom painted? Did it sit in water for extended times?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2015 at 6:07pm
260,289 & 302 everything swaps, heads, intake, crank, cam etc. The 260 has a different bell housing bolt pattern. I've seen several boats people think they have a 289 but it's a 260. When my 66 cracked in '98 from a casting flaw, I put a 302 in it. Bored out to a 310, Keith Black pistons, roller rockers plenty of power. Going with something different means motor mount and dog box solutions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amesser325 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2015 at 2:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Andy,
Do you know why the hull has been bottom painted? Did it sit in water for extended times?


Never knew that wasn't stock. We bought it from the original owner in the 90s. He had it on a lake full time so he might have painted it for that reason.

Thanks,

Andy

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chevy350 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2015 at 2:27pm
Originally posted by amesser325 amesser325 wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Andy,
Do you know why the hull has been bottom painted? Did it sit in water for extended times?


Never knew that wasn't stock. We bought it from the original owner in the 90s. He had it on a lake full time so he might have painted it for that reason.

Thanks,

Andy



It looks like he tried making it a Classic. Isn't that how they looked?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2015 at 6:55pm
Red bottom and boot stripe could very well be factory original.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amesser325 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2015 at 11:49pm
Looking at the brochures for 65 and 66, I guess it could be either. I figured 66 Mustang based on the colors and power levels (there's a 210HP sticker on the valve cover), but it could be a 65 Classic. The only marking on the stringer is the build code AM1433 but there doesn't seem to be any good internet records available until they standardized with 'CTCxxxx'.
The paint on the bottom does kinda look like it was taped on with bleed-thru on the pinstripe line. I was thinking even back then they would have a crisp line because they put the color in the gel coat when they laid the boat up but I'm not too worried about it. It's a great little boat that I want to get running with a sexy sounding ~200HP V8 in it.

Thanks all for the responses and discussions. I'm sure I"ll have more as I dig into it!

Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2015 at 12:20am
AM means it's a American Skier then. Same hull as a Mustang but with a different deck. You'll have to write the factory and have it looked up to find out anything.
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