Damage boat project

Mike - Sorry for the kibitzing, but just want to help you achieve optimum outcome.

You might want to assemble the rudder port & rudder & check for center before you start glassing (assuming the glue is strong enough to support the weight.) The reason I suggest this is that the length of the rudder will magnify even a small amount of error in the surface of the mount. Easy to fix now, much harder to fix after the glass has cured. Just a thought.

Mike, just a bit of advice from an observer. The need to grind into those cracks isn't really optional. This repair isn't something for inexperienced hobbyists. For the strength of this area to survive the stresses that a tournament ski boat will undergo, the rudder has to be bulletproof in terms of strength or the repair will wind up being a failure and the consequences might even be hazardous to family members and friends.

Filling of the v-ground cracks with a mixture of resin and chopped glass before overlaying of several layers of properly oriented and saturated Fiberglas should do the trick if properly laid in on both sides of the hull.

Just putting lots of resin without glass is not going to return the strength to proper levels. Trust all of us--follow the advice and take the time to do this properly. We want you to be successful!

Now that you have the rudder port material glued back into place, I recommend grinding a V groove, almost thru the entire thickness of the cracks.    Do one side at a time, so you don't lose position.    Pack the groove with glass, then grind flush after cure.    Then proceed with the overlays.    If you leave the crack it will be a stress riser (weak spot).

Mike, that's not a GT40 EFI. That engine was not available until 95. You've got the one many have converted to carb because of lack of availability of replacement parts. It was a Throttle Body injected engine. The GT40 is port injection.

Thinking that you better grind the bilge gel coat down to raw glass also. I would take it out towards each side at least 6 inches more. Your patches need to be narrow and building up to wide patches on top. The more width you get the better for strength    JMO Duane.

I believe those three lines or bars on the heads is very significant. If my memory is correct, that means GT Heads.

Looks like you have a good helper there with you.

I don't care how you cut it that boat was a great deal . for me it would be good sweat equity and a learning project. I hope everything goes good for you. The one thing I would do though is follow Pete's advice about exposing everything down as deep as you can to make sure you get anything that is hidden damage in the layers

OK. I guess it just looked strange to me.

desertskier wrote: After looking at your picture you have it hooked up wrong. You need to supply water before it connects to the raw water pump. Water flows from the inlet on the boat hull then through the trans cooler then to the RWP. It looks like you disconnected it at the RWP so it was sucking air.

To me, it looks like the water supply is on the suction side of the RWP.

After looking at your picture you have it hooked up wrong. You need to supply water before it connects to the raw water pump. Water flows from the inlet on the boat hull then through the trans cooler then to the RWP. It looks like you disconnected it at the RWP so it was sucking air.

I would check raw water pump impeller. If the boat lost contact with the water during the accident it may have been damaged.

Mike9812121298 wrote: The plan is to just lay the fiberglass down on the top.

Mike,
I suggest going deeper into the cracks that are evident on both the inside and outside of the hull. By routing them out farther, you may be able to make sure there isn't any disbonding between the layers of glass.

Mike9812121298 wrote: Your right I should try starting up the engine, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper to believe that it runs perfect then to find out there's a issues with it. Lol

Turn the key, I bet she Purrs.

Mike9812121298 wrote: I live in Bonney lake, so I'm about 1 min away from lake tapps.

Hi Mike, I am in NE Tacoma/Federal way, but we consider Lake Tapps to be our lake of choice for now.   I'll look for you this summer.