Damage boat project

Would this glass be of use?

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40789&PID=525874򀘲

Epoxy

Late to the game on this one guys but a tarnished Starr texted me to have a looksee at this thread and add my $.03 worth. Glad to see you grind it all the way down and get rid of the adhesive fill that you added. Smart Move! You're on the right track Mike but I would NOT use chop glass on any of that repair. For strength I would definately use woven cloth.

Now that you've got it reinforced from the bottom I would brush epoxy straight onto what you have and use the brush bristles to force epoxy in between the delaminating plies. once you have done that, put some wax paper down then weigh it down with a half empty bag of sand or a gallon ziplock bag not quite full to compress the delaminated/damaged plies together. Using a sandbag will conform to the shape of the bottom of the hull. Once it cures then do a light sand with a 120 grit or coarse scotchbrite pad to rough up the epoxy. Wipe it down with acetone.

Use a big piece of transparent plastic and lay it down on the repair. Use a fine line sharpie and trace each individual layer of cloth starting with the smallest first and continue with each larger ply until you have no more layers to trace. Now you have patterns to go by when you cut your cloth to epoxy in place. I would add 3 final plys on top of however many initial plies you have with each one 1/2 inch larger than the next. Several plies adhereing to the hull is better than just one big one. Stronger longer lasting repair if it's done this way. Once all the plies are down then weigh it down with those sandbags as compression is KEY to a STRONG repair!

If any of this confuses you then don't hesitate to give me a call at 77Zer0 31six 6nine6three and I'll be happy to explain better than the above.

Nice find and keep the pictures coming on the progress.

Mike,
Don't forget poly covered blocks to mimic the strut and rudder base indentations in the hull bottom. Make them slightly oversize to allow for bedding (caulking) compound.
Lookin' Good!

One trick I've used for disbonded areas where they are too deep to get resin into is to drill small (about 3/32") holes through the top layer. Then when you prime the area with plain resin, the resin will flow into the disbonded layers. Injection with a syringe also woks in real tight spots.

I would have started glass but I only have the bondo resin that is not expoxy. How much glass should I order? Think this will work to start glass?

I was too slow typing Pete I was referencing Chris,I didn't mean to direct that to you   

But if he would start laying thin layers of thin new mat,each one being larger than the last, it would end up much like plywood in it's strength. Pete ,Tim or Tim Bob should have some good ideas. Mike check into US Composites for your glass supplies, medium cure epoxy might be best                                                                                                                       

That might be a good idea Chris. He'd have to make plates out of other plastic maybe to recreate the indentations for the underwater gear

Alright scratching the adhesive idea and going back to sanding. Had about 45 min to get some work done. Got the pads pealed up. Tomorrow the plan is to take it down some more.

I'll wait for others to chime in on the hull repair, but welcome. I live up in Lake Stevens, but get together with Dreaming now and then to share Nautique stories.

I love the way those engines sound! I can't wait for summer.

Hi awesome project boat. I do also hope you follow the advice of the guys on the forum. Everyone just wants you to be successful. The cost and labor will not be much more. But if you skimp on the repair and it fails people your boat could sink or worse people could get hurt. Be safe have fun fixing the boat.

like my grandpa always said....."If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right."