Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?

I got a new Holley 4160 carb to replace the auto carb on the boat when I bought it.  It still needs a spacer for the throttle linkage to work and I plan to reuse the alum that was on it.  It's hollow on the bottom so concerned about vaccum leaks.  I read on other threads that the PCM RM0054B gasket from Skidim will seal spacers but wanted to make sure it will work on the one I have. 

I may flatten the bottom of the spacer just make sure it's not warped or nicked.

 Prop is probably bent and or the shaft could be bent.

Also discovered the rudder housing was leaking water around the base so I've removed that assembly to clean it up and reinstall with 4200.

Unfortunately I had no choice on the carb and the DUI.  The one that came on it was an auto carb and the old distributer/coil was junk.  It's starting to feel like a brand new boat considering how much I've had to replace 

I'm confident the shaft is straight but the taper might be out by .002"-.003".  I put a dial indicator on it and rotated at three places on the taper and it was consistently out.

Apparently right up the road from you in the Chelsea/Graystone area.  My coworker has a place on Lake Mitchell.  Is that the lake you frequent?

I would say that when you aligned it and were .002 - .003 out (which is within tolerance) that would transfer down to the taper as you rotate it. 

 I don't think that would give you the vibration your describing, as Gary said you need a prop anyway, so start with that. JMHO

If I was gonna do the lapping job on one end of the shaft, I'd see no reason at all to ignore the other end 

Somebody might say that A.R.E machined the shaft and the coupling so the fit should be real good, your picture doesn't show a lot of good contact though.

Is it safe to assume you've watched a video or pictorial thread on shaft lapping?

But I started to get concerned about what the alternator actually putting out so I started digging into the alternator wiring.  I discovered that I have a Mando alternator that appears to have an internal regulator.  However the alternator was also wired to the external regulator.  I've included a pic of the back of the alternator below.  The wire to the battery was connected to the positive battery terminal (orange in the photo) which was correct.  The ground wire ran to the black wire on the regulator (which was probably still grounded to the motor so probably okay) but the external regulator green wire was connected to the exciter post on the alternator (red in the photo).  However all other external regulator wires were loose so I don't think the exciter post had any power to it.  If that's the case then not sure the alternator was regulating voltage at all (my understanding is that the regulators on these Mando alternators need ignition power through the exciter to work).

Questions regarding correcting this mess;

- What is the jumper shown in the photo between the main positive output post (orange) and the sense positive post (blue)?  Based on he mickey mouse wiring that was in this boat this jumper looks like it may be factory. But I have not seen that in any diagrams or photos of Mando alternators online. Is the jumper possibly powering the voltage regulator?

- If i run an exciter wire from the ignition to the exciter post (red), does the jumper need to come off to avoid powering both sides?  Again, I haven't seen any jumpers on Mando alternator photos or diagrams.

- What is the positive sense post (blue) for on the alternator?  That may inform whether I leave it connected.

I'm trying to get all of this straightened out without ruining anything else (particularly my new DUI !!) so any help would be much appreciated.