Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?

I've been perusing this forum for a few months now trying to glean enough information to successfully redo the stringers and floor in my '82 2001. I got it last year and limped through the summer with it knowing I had a major project on tap for the off season. Unfortunately I'm starting very late ( too many other projects at home got in the way) so I'm hoping I can get the boat back in the water the last half of the summer and into the fall.

Since I've never done fiberglass before I'm really green on the subject. After studying this site for a while I feel like I'm a little better informed. However the biggest question mark right now is the glass layup schedule. I've seen various methods on here from different members and have come up with the one below. I plan on getting my supplies from US Composites since they have been widely used on here with success. Given that they no longer have the epoxy mat I've adjusted my stringer schedule to the following;
- wrap all wood in 1 layer of 10 oz glass after priming with thinned epoxy
- 1 layer of 2" cloth tape at joint to the hull,
-1 layer of 4" cloth tape,
- 1 layer of 8" cloth tape
- 2 layers of woven 10 oz glass on all stringers then
    -1 layer of 1708 glass on secondary stringers
    - 2 layers of 1708 on main stringers

I'd like to get some feedback on this schedule from the experts on here that actually know what they're doing. Too many layer? Not enough layers? Wrong glass?
I'm using LVL for the main stringers and clear SYP for the secondaries (I cannot get my hands on douglas fir)

It's been said repeatedly on here but those of us who are very new to boat repair really appreciate all the people who have taken the time to post their knowledge for the rest of us.

I'll post pics as I go for those that are interested.

Thanks again for any help!

Allen

Allen,
Yes, do post pictures. I'm sure all would be interested. I feel your plan is a good one but, I'd add a CPES (penetrating epoxy) treatment to all the wood. I see that Jamestown now has a penetrating epoxy in their Total Boat lineup. Worth a try since I've heard nothing but good about Total Boat products.

I've gotten 3 of the 4 stringers glued in (starboard main left to cut out). I still have to glass everything in on port side before cutting out the last stringer.. Before I do that though I wanted to ask about using epoxy filled pockets for the engine cradle bolts. I've seen others mention oversizing the hole in the starboard stringer for the steering cable support, filling with epoxy and then drilling the correct size hole so the wood in the hole is not exposed to water. Has anyone done this with the lag bolts for the engine cradle? Both the bolts in the side of the stringer and the top.
I'm using LVL as main stringers so lag bolting into the top is not going to be as strong as solid wood anyway. Which got me to thinking about this method. Seems I could accomplish better waterproofing the stringer and increasing strength at teh bolted connection. I'm not sure what the shear and tension strengths are for US Composites 621 epoxy but you would think it would be plenty. I can also go with a true structural epoxy that will absolutely be strong enough.

Any thoughts?

I'll try to post pics of my progress so far.

I"m just going by what I took out. It had six lag bolts on each side... 3 in the top and 3 on the side. I assumed it came from the factory like that.

Understood. Any thoughts on the epoxy pocket for the side bolts?

Pouring some CPES down the holes should make them pretty rot resistant.

It doesn't have to last forever, it just has to last until you quit skiing!

Same here, plan on skiing forever like Banana George.

shierh wrote: "I went overboard   used 1808 and 2 layers on main stringers with 4 where engine sits outside stringers got 2." If I did it again I would have filled the gap using the cradle as a form.

You used 2 layers of 1808 on the mains and 4 layers of 1808 at the engine?
Outside stringers got two layers of what?

Are you saying you had a gap between the side of the stringer and vertical leg of the cradle?

I took some pics to update the stringer work. I've got both secondaries and one main glued and filleted in the boat. I'm hoping to glass the port side in this weekend. I hope to do it all at once to get the max bond rather than one layer, cure, next layer, cure, etc.


Three of the four pieces of wood blocking on the transom for the swim deck have been cut out. The fourth will be cut out when the last stringer is removed. The blocking around the exhaust tips seems to be pretty solid. I looks like the factory (or somebody) used plumbers putty around the tip flange to seal it. It seems to have worked. Is that what you use when you put them back in?

I will say the best tool so far has been the power hand planer (as mentioned in the Stringer Tips thread). Since shaping the stringer to fit in the boat is more sculpting than cutting it has been a HUGE time saver. I can usually get a stringer done in less than a day and that's with 2 dozen trips in and out of the boat with it.

Wonder if this is common
Mine had an interior patch over the shaft log. No stress cracks on outside though. The patch would have been done at SE Correct Craft and likely it was under warranty or they beefed it up because it was know issue.   

Anyhow I looked at my photos and looks like I put one extra layer over the strut area when I did the job.   

For you I would grind it down about 3/16 over the strut and out to edge of cracking and lay some 1708 in there and then lay a whole piece between the stringers over this area. Believe that should be more than enough.    

shierh wrote: Wonder if this is common Mine had an interior patch over the shaft log. No stress cracks on outside though. The patch would have been done at SE Correct Craft and likely it was under warranty or they beefed it up because it was know issue.

Mine also has a patch around the shaft log as well as the pylon support sleeve. Both look like the same repair and both looked like the same repairs others on this forum have shared. So I assume (hope) it was done by Correct Craft.

The gray gel around the log and pylon base are not necessarily repairs... that is the way cc built the boats in the 70's (presumably log holes and pylon receptacles were cut/placed after the bilge gel was shot.

Nautique Newby wrote:    Obviously this has to be replaced. So the question is go back with a standards drip version or dripless. I've seen pros and cons for both.

Allen,
It worked for 35 years so why spend the $$ on a "dripless"? Put some good Goxtex packing in it and you'll be fine.

BTW, I've got one that has worked great for 40 years, one for 53 years and then another one for 63 years!

In my case it appears reinforcement was added when the boat was in for repairs of the rear where the lifting ring tore out.   SE Correct Craft made what turned out to be a horrible repair, words cant describe what I had to do to fix it properly.   

anyhow they laid up epoxy glass over the shaft log for some unknown reason.   It was pretty rough so I smoothed it out and finished it off properly when I did the stringer job.   

All of those who have posted photos of their old stringers had way more of a template than I did. In my case there was NO wood left, it had been eaten by carpenter ants and only about 10% was left. I had a terrible time trying to make a reasonable template and about 1/3 was a basic guess. In retrospect my whole project should have been to salvage what few parts I could have and got another boat to do.   

shierh wrote: All of those who have posted photos of their old stringers had way more of a template than I did. In my case there was NO wood left, it had been eaten by carpenter ants and only about 10% was left. I had a terrible time trying to make a reasonable template and about 1/3 was a basic guess. In retrospect my whole project should have been to salvage what few parts I could have and got another boat to do.

So far the biggest piece of wood I've taken out of the old stringers was 1 very rough looking 4' piece of the secondary. All the rest has been vacuumed out. Nothing but soft wood and dirt. I should have put it in my garden and gotten some use out of it. The fiberglass was all of the structure.
I did use the main stringer fiberglass to help shape the top of the new main. But since I was comparing finished surface to wood surface (no glass) I had to interpolate. I'll find out how well I did or didn't do when I get the engine back in.