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    Posted: May-26-2018 at 1:49am
Last time I was on here I had some velvet drive questions and I was overwhelmed with all of the help I received. Everyone was spot on. Now I have a new problem. No spark. I thought since I have not replaced the ignition parts in a lot of years that I would treat my 76 Ski Tique with some new parts. It has the Mallory single point distributor. I installed the new point and condencer being careful not to short out on the distributor. I first set them to .027 with a feeler guage with the point resting on the distributor cam (high) lobe. I then connected my dwell meter to ground and - side of the coil. As soon as the ignition switch was turned on the meter pegged. No matter how I adjusted the set screw while turning the motor over it remained pegged. I turned off the ignition switch and put the points back to .027. I put on the new roter and cap, put a screwdriver in #1 spark plugs wire , held the driver close to ground expecting to see a spark while turning the motor over but nothing. I took the driver and put it in the coil wire off the cap, turned the motor over and no spark either. I measured the resistance in the coil wire and read 41k ohms. I checked voltage on the coil, had 12.5 to ground on both sides. I downloaded a schematic, the ballast resistor should be 1.5 ohms. I really am at a loss why I have no spark. Any help on these would be greatly appreciated. I have every kind of meter you can think of at my disposal. Just don't have a spark tester so I do it old school.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 8:08am
Jim,
Sounds like the - side of the coil is staying grounded even when the points are open. Pull the wire off the - side of the coil, get the engine rotated to where the points are open and Ohm between the wire and ground. Report back with what you find.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 9:43am
Sparks, you're not living up to your screen name

Try setting your gap at about .018 inches and you'll probably get spark.

It sounds like you're confusing dwell and point gap numbers

Mallory marine distributors usually call for a gap of .018 to .020 inches
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 9:44am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jim,
Sounds like the - side of the coil is staying grounded even when the points are open. Pull the wire off the - side of the coil, get the engine rotated to where the points are open and Ohm between the wire and ground. Report back with what you find.


Could also be the opposite, as in the points are not getting ground at all. Someone else had rust between dist & block, that would do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 8:19pm
I got the boat to start. Problem was the contacts on the points were not conducting. I cleaned them off, used a point file and she fired right up. Now, I don't know if my son popped the motor or not. I don't know if there is a thermostat or if the water pump let go. Anyway, he was running it at about 800 RPMS and noticed black smoke coming out of the exhaust. The motor is super hot. Anyone have any input?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 8:28pm
When was the raw water pump impeller last changed? I'd start there, pull the impeller and inspect it. If impeller is ok, can you get the boat on a trailer and run with water feeding it from a tee or bucket? Once it has completely cooled down you can start it again and see if you have any water flow out the pipes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 8:30pm
Jim,
Has the engine been run without any water hooked up say when you did the tune up and got it to run? The RWP (raw water pump) rubber impeller is water lubricated and it doesn't take much to tear up the impeller. That's the first thing I suggest checking.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 8:44pm
I will check the impeller, does the boat have a thermostat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 8:49pm
Is the rubber impeller still available? Do I have to get an updated water pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 9:06pm
So how's your point gap and dwell now that it ran(for a little while)

You should have .020' gap and dwell between 24 and 29 degrees. The more gap, the less dwell you have and with .027 you're lucky it runs cause dwell will only be about 10 degrees.

Your description of the dwell meter hookup didn't sound right. Should be red to positive, black to negative and the green wire to the coil negative (at least that's how my high tech meter from the 70's hooks up)

Sounds like you have bigger problems to worry about now though..

I think you have a 302 Ford from a previous post and let's just say it SHOULD have a thermostat. The brand of Marinization like PCM, Commander etc would be helpful when you're talking about thermostats, thermostat housings and water pumps and distributors too..

Take the top of the thermostat housing off and you should be looking at it. It's right in front of the distributor with 3 or so hoses hooked to it.

You didn't mention how you were supplying water to the engine when it was running. That would be useful info for people to help you figure out why the engine got so hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by sparks sparks wrote:

Is the rubber impeller still available? Do I have to get an updated water pump?

Yes, impellers are readily available. It's a good idea to inspect them yearly and I change out every two years whether it looks good or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2018 at 10:10pm
Jabsco impellers

Sherwood impellers

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jim,
Has the engine been run without any water hooked up say when you did the tune up and got it to run?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2018 at 3:39am
I ran the engine dry just to hear it fire, 2 maybe 3 seconds. Then we put it in the lake. My son was driving the boat back. By the time I got back to the house with the trailer he was stalled. The boat ran in the lake at roughly 800 RPMs for about 1.25 miles. I asked if he felt a loss of power, he said no, he saw black smoke and shut it down. I just changed the oil and filter. The oil was full, didn't stink and looked like I just poured it from the can. When she was running my son said there was about 45lbs oil pressure on the guage. After it cooled down I turned it over, it is not seized.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2018 at 3:52am
On the valve cover the specs said .021 gap on the points, 27 degrees dwell. I was trying to remember from last week. I was wrong. I only ran it dry for a few seconds just to verify it fires. I don't have a hose this year until I replace my hose faucet, it froze and cracked, can't use it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2018 at 7:44am
Originally posted by sparks sparks wrote:

I ran the engine dry just to hear it fire, 2 maybe 3 seconds. .

Yes but before you got the point set to work, you had been cranking the engine. Do open up the RWP and take a look at the impeller. As mentioned, it's not a bad idea to get a new one in. Does the temp gauge work and did you son happen to notice what it was reading?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2018 at 9:06am
I think, like Pete said, check the impeller.

If it's bad, I'd check the exhaust hoses since they would have run during that time with little or no cooling water mixed with the hot exhaust from the engine.

It wouldn't hurt to check the thermostat too since impeller pieces can end up in the thermostat housing. If the impeller is shredded it would be a good idea to check all the hoses for pieces of the impeller so they don't block or restrict flow to the engine or exhaust manifolds.

And..............tell Junior "he done good" shutting it off and give him a pat on the back

Is this a PCM Ford or a different brand?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2018 at 9:40am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



And..............tell Junior "he done good" shutting it off and give him a pat on the back




Yes!! And now he can learn some more on CC repairs! I guess impellor
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2018 at 11:18am
Thanks again guys, I know what to look for now. I'll probably pull the water pump later today. Need to spend time with the family instead of in the engine of the boat today. I'll be able to get the parts I need too. Yes, the temp guage works, he said it was pegged but wasn't sure if it was accurate because it was the first time out. Not sure why he thought that, glad he shut it down when he did and he didn't seazed it. I hope the heads didn't warp now. Keeping my fingers crossed until I get her running again.
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