New to me 72 Skier

I see zero reason for a nine hour break in unless you just enjoy the boating for 9 hours along with the full ice chest to maintain your good mood.

Not just saying this, I had 30 years in the engine rebuilding business, we made Piston Rings, Sealed Power, Engine Bearings, Federal-Mogul, Valves, Sealed Power, Gaskets, Fel-Pro, Pistons, Sealed Power, Sterling and TRW brand.  Called on engine machine shops all over the west coast that built between 50 and 1,500 engines per month.   We had to stand behind the quality of these parts, any time an engine broke these customers came back to us wanting explanations, warranty and help,  so I think what I share is conservative.   You need 20 minutes actual run time to help the valve train settle in before revving over 3,000 RPM.  Guys who rev brand new engines to high RPM before the 20 minute break in would sometimes pop a valve stem keeper and drop a valve.  The internal  parts need to mate to each other a little before high RPM exposure.

Your rings as stated will seat right away on first loaded pull at full throttle, if you chose the lower cost cast faced top rings this may take 4-10 accelerations but Moly top rings seat right away. ( and last 3-4 times longer)

Bearings are good after the 20 minute run time and good for life of the engine.   

So, do not get it hot for any reason, that can be fatal.   Don't run it hard for any extended period of time because that builds excess heat.  By extended period, Give it the gas, let it rev till it stops accelerating, back off and run at lower RPM for a couple minutes so it can cool internally before doing that again.   Combustion heat is dangerous because it may not ever show up on your temp gauge.  High combustion heat is from too much timing or a lean burn condition.  Lean burn is usually a leak in the intake system or a carb not supplying enough fuel.  Both make the cylinders run much hotter which can damage rings and pistons in a very short amount of time.   If you hear detonation, pinging on acceleration do not try to run it hard, go back to the dock and work on your tune to get dialed in better.  After the first couple hours on the water run it any way you want.   If it was built with a problem inside no amount of soft break in will save it, it will break.   If you built it right and you are past the short break in window you can run it hard just do not get it hot.  Heat will kill your new engine and new engines can get hot fast so be careful and go have fun.

Many brand new engines are assembled, dropped in to the car and taken to the race track the next day and race!   Built right they go fast, if built wrong they break.   There really is not much in between other than owner abuse that causes early failure.  #1 cause excess heat, either lack of coolant or combustion temps, running it too hard too early or with to much timing or vacuum leaks/fuel issues.   #2 cause, lack of lubrication, usually caused by something set up wrong on assembly or a leak the driver does not catch till it is too late.

Not one word of this says you should not tell your wife the boat needs this 9 hour break in, that amount of time and drinking with buddies can be serious therapy and great for the soul.  Go do it and have fun!

I have switched to Yuengling Flight.  It is great. That VP of Marketing told me she did not want the Red Neck Frat Boy business, so I had to switch.  She knew me well. LKN Is way down too right now due to the lack of rain. 

Donald 

Counter clockwise for the drill direction. prime for about 15 seconds or so, rotate engine 90 degrees, prime, rotate engine 90 degrees....repeat till you're happy with oil flow at rocker arms.

If you get yourself a priming tool, you won't have any chance of the socket falling off the extension and landing in the sump

Not a necessity but nice to have, since you can clamp the guide in place with the distributor hold down bolt

1/4 inch hex for your 302 as compared to 5/16 for a 351.

Nice work guys. 

It's a slightly overgrown G21 and has 1 1/4 inlet and outlet fittings and the impeller is slightly bigger in diameter and width. There are other part numbers too for the same pump with 1 inch fittings

If you were to put a G21 in it's place, you'd probably run into some alignment issues.

I'd probably stick with what you have assuming it fits right.

It's discontinued but plenty of parts are available for it.