throttle cable adjustment |
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delhidream
Newbie Joined: August-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Posted: August-31-2006 at 9:46pm |
stang 72 hope your out there. Tried adjusting just before going in to gear, now it just dies. I must be doing something wrong. When I adjusted it in neutral, Iadjusted it so it didn't move throttle linkage until right when it engaged. So now with the lever right before it hits the detent, the cable still hasn't moved to adjust ball and socket. Do I need to do my adjusting in the morse control? Please help, I'm in a near panic, it's a 3 day weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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stang72
Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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Sounds like you need to adjust the idle screw up(that would have changed when you reset the throttle)...what rpms are you running at nuetral? You want 700-800rmps and it will drop to near 600 when ingaged forward.Tach could be off and you may have to guess by what it sounds like and how it ingages(with no jerk).
How far out are the air screws? usually they are between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 turns out. |
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stang72
Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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I reread the original post...and yes a vacuum leak could be present as raises he-- with setting idle...check the carb the spacer gasket and spacer to intake...I know you did spray some carb cleaner and it did not rev up. I have found leaks by blowing cigar smoke in suspect areas...it will suck right in. Also..check the pc valve..shake it..it should rattle...and check the pcv line connections for leaks.
If no leaks...back to the adustments carb and trottle linkage(which I think it is that simple). This is a$$uming the timing is correct. Throttle cable can get stiff as it gets old(or binding)...this can be checked by moving the linkage by hand if the rpms are high when you return the control to nuetral...means it's sticking. |
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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Are you connecting the cable to the original hole? My carb has several holes to choose from.
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Tim D
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delhidream
Newbie Joined: August-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Ive gone through these sugestions from stang72 and my same problems still exhist. The pcv valve still shakes,and can't detect any vacuum leeks between it and the back of the manifold. As far as any other leaks there is a little around the bore of the throttle shaft, but seems to be very minor and equal in all four corners. I'm a$$uming this is normal beens there are no seals or gaskets. Is this wrong? The timing I had set at 6 btc at one point as recomended in my owners handbook, but is currently at 9 btc as I have read on these posts as being better. The throttle cable moves freely with no binding by hand when disconnected from the morse control. TimD's suggestion of numerous holes on linkage is also a great idea but I never removed the ball off of it when I did the rebuild. A freind of mine that worked at the nautique dealership says he remembers hearing about internal vacuum leaks that were fairly common on the 4160"s he said the throttle body's can warp between the metering block and this can result. Has anybody else had any experience with that? Thanks again Guy's!!!!!!!!
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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If you're having a leak on the metering block, get some of the blue reusable gaskets Holley makes. They seal alot better than the paper gaskets.
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Tim D
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delhidream
Newbie Joined: August-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Tim D thats whats in it but ive had the bowls off numerous times for adjustments, could they be worn out already? Ive heard sometimes you have to take a piece of gla$$ and sandpaper to flatten them back out. Have you heard of or had any experience with that. Don't really want to be sanding on the metering block or throttle body if that isn't the problem. Thanks Randy!!!!!!!!
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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I haven't had it apart since the new blue gaskets were put on. I took it in and had a flow bench test on it (when my distributor cap cracked)and the guy said the blue gaskets were better than the paper. $3 for blue and .60 for paper. I said what the heck, I'll slurge.
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Tim D
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delhidream
Newbie Joined: August-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Did the flow bench elliminate a lot of tuning adjustments when you put it back on the boat?
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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I mentioned in an old post that I had a vacuum leak that was the result of a unperceptable slighty warped carb spacer plate. When I laid sand paper on a window pane gla$$ (the only flat surface I could find) and slid the plate back and forth, the uneven surface on the spacer plate become obvious. I sanded until the high spots were gone, reinstalled the carb (with spacer) and the vacuum leak disappeared. I don't know if this was the post you are refering to but it might be. Also, I found that Mr. Gasket gaskets let the vacuum leak. Do not use Mr Gasket gaskets.
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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The flow bench can help, but I was trying to fix the wrong part at first. It showed nothing was wrong with the carb. When the cap cracked, it first ran like the powervalve had gone bad.
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Tim D
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delhidream
Newbie Joined: August-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Sounds like I should head out to the barn and get a piece of gla$$ from one of the few windows that are left. Do you know what brand of gasket is in the holley rebuild kits, or are they an actual holley gasket? Thanks Jim!!!!!!!!!
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stang72
Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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Felpro...right Jim
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