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Broken prop shaft!

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Briandarflinger View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:06pm
Hello everyone.
I have a 87 ski centurio n that I just rebuilt from the ground up. First day out, everything s working great. As I'm about to pull the boat out of the water, I put her in reverse, and pop!, Driveshaft breaks clean right at the coupler. Anyone ever hear of this happening? What could be the cause? Thanks in advance
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:10pm
Poor alignment most likely I think.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:12pm
Unfortunately drive shafts can and do break. Poor alignment is the culprit in many failures. Make it easy on yourself and replace with a dual-taper shaft. A.R.E. And General Propeller in FL are good options.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 1:32pm
Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:

Poor alignment most likely I think.

Absolutely agree.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Briandarflinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 3:24pm
Not very confident feeler guage illignment is a accurate way.. too many variables. Both shaft and trans couplers have to be100% perfect for that to be any good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Briandarflinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 3:28pm
Both couplers have to be dead. Not a .01 of wobble, and both faces must be absolutely perfect. Correct me if I'm wrong
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 3:30pm
Originally posted by Briandarflinger Briandarflinger wrote:

Not very confident feeler guage illignment is a accurate way.. too many variables. Both shaft and trans couplers have to be100% perfect for that to be any good.

Brian,
The feeler gauge method has worked for many years and still does but you are correct that the couplings need to be faced to the bore. Any better method? There's not enough shaft to bolts on a laser alignment tool. Tell us about your results with the feeler gauge.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Briandarflinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 5:19pm
Thanks for the response. I did align with a feeler gauge last time, and I THOUGHT it was good. But,as I said, as I did it, it seemed like it was arbitrary. My new shaft is on its way, . I'll give it another try!. Just for curiosity sake, I'm going to try and do it mathematically,,just to see if there's anything I obvious.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 5:35pm
If you think the alignment was “arbitrary” then I suspect you may have gotten caught up in the details and missed the big picture. Forrest through the trees, as they say.

Maybe one of our resident ME’s can comment how one might align with “math” instead of measurement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 5:40pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Maybe one of our resident ME’s can comment how one might align with “math” instead of measurement.

I'd sure like to know how too.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 6:47pm
One the shaft, is (was) there any 'blueish' color around where the shaft packing?
I've seen a shaft overheat and break there because the packing was too tight.

Butch Stevens of Inboard Specialties (San Jose, Ca) taught me how to do alignment. (decades ago).
He convinced me that the best way to do it was in the water, although not very practical all the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 7:28pm
You can verify your couplers are pretty darn straight by using the technique of adjusting the gap to as close to zero as possible and then rotating the prop shaft and double checking. Your gap should be the same before and after rotating the prop shaft 180*.
Far as I know this is the industry standard and you do not need to revisit the technique. It works, if yours broke something was wrong with the shaft or your alignment.   Hope the repair goes well. As mentioned early in this post, the tapered shafts save a lot of time on install and if you ever need to repair and are nearly the exact same cost as a standard shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

You can verify your couplers are pretty darn straight by using the technique of adjusting the gap to as close to zero as possible and then rotating the prop shaft and double checking. Your gap should be the same before and after rotating the prop shaft 180*.
Using the rotate and check to see if a given gap follows the rotation, is a great way to see if the faces of the coupling are true to the bore BUT, it may also indicate a bent prop shaft.

Brian,
Did you purchase a single or double taper shaft? If single, are you also getting the coupling? Keep in mind the coupling to a straight shaft fit is an interference fit so the coupling is typically bored to match the tolerance of the shaft.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 9:32pm
Pete could align an engine under .001" with a stick of gum on a cold enough day, i think you're going to learn something on this project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 9:58pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

Pete could align an engine under .001" with a stick of gum on a cold enough day,


Brian,
Don't believe a word To says!! Seriously, I've fought alignments just like everyone has. They can be frustrating to say the least. You think you have it and then one small adjustment throws everting off. A couple things to remember and the key one is understanding the basics of what alignment is and what the goal is. Then always remember alignment starts at the strut and then goes forward.

Keep us informed on what your progress is and ask if you have any questions.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote briandarf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:23pm
Thanks guys.! now that I'm home on my laptop, instead of my phone, I can elaborate..I have a 47-3/4" x1" double taper shaft. I very carefully checked the alignment with my feeler gauge. My thinking is: there's AT LEAST 4 things using the feeler guage wont tell you.
#1 is the trans coupler true to axis?- if not, no measurements are valid- and how would you know?
2. is the shaft coupler perfectly aligned to its axis? AKA 'wobble"
3 Was my old shaft perfectly straight? "
4- are both mating faces PERFECTLY clean.- or feeler guages dont work

Id bet its rare not to have at least one of these issues. No?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by briandarf briandarf wrote:

Thanks guys.! now that I'm home on my laptop, instead of my phone, I can elaborate..I have a 47-3/4" x1" double taper shaft. I very carefully checked the alignment with my feeler gauge. My thinking is: there's AT LEAST 4 things using the feeler guage wont tell you.
#1 is the trans coupler true to axis?- if not, no measurements are valid- and how would you know?
2. is the shaft coupler perfectly aligned to its axis? AKA 'wobble"
3 Was my old shaft perfectly straight? "
4- are both mating faces PERFECTLY clean.- or feeler guages dont work

Id bet its rare not to have at least one of these issues. No?

1,2 and 3
4 clean the faces first.
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

You can verify your couplers are pretty darn straight by using the technique of adjusting the gap to as close to zero as possible and then rotating the prop shaft and double checking. Your gap should be the same before and after rotating the prop shaft 180*.
Using the rotate and check to see if a given gap follows the rotation, is a great way to see if the faces of the coupling are true to the bore BUT, it may also indicate a bent prop shaft. .


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote briandarf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:40pm
Dont take this I'm being argumentative-I just think of why things might not work constantly..
- I remember spinning the couplers while I was installing the shaft- thinking both couplers could be off axis equally and mated together,but as long as the engine and shaft are in alignment it wouldnt matter and could have been fine since manufacture.. couplers could wobble together and everything be just fine,, and then when you try and rotate them 180 you could get a big difference and massively out of whack .. I know I'm going down a rabbit hole for no reason,, but I'm just sayin = you cant try to be VERY accurate and have variables at the same time..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote briandarf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:44pm
one more question.. how can you spin the shaft 180 and know for sure it didnt slide forward or back?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:52pm
Originally posted by MourningWood MourningWood wrote:

.
He convinced me that the best way to do it was in the water, although not very practical all the time.


If I remember right one of the PCM books I have even mentions checking it every time it is launched as well. I believe their thinking was for large boats not trailer boats but that was not stated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:57pm
Bdarf

How can you really be sure of anything?

Why didn't you update the thread in the link?

You look for answers here, you really should finish your threads with an update

link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2020 at 10:58pm
Originally posted by briandarf briandarf wrote:

one more question.. how can you spin the shaft 180 and know for sure it didnt slide forward or back?


I used to put a .003 shim in the tightest spot, near a bolt hole. then tighten the bolt finger tight, just enough so the shim (aka spare feeler) wouldn't fall out. Then you can gage from there (.003-.006), rotating to see if it changes (it always did for me).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2020 at 7:58am
Originally posted by briandarf briandarf wrote:

one more question.. how can you spin the shaft 180 and know for sure it didnt slide forward or back?

Brian,
If the shaft slides forward or aft, then you slide it back and continue measuring.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2020 at 10:22am
I think Brian's taking the 'measuring' too literal.

Sub-0.001" angular alignment is possible, using any single feeler gauge in stack, by blunting the couplings together with the gauge inbetween and feeling for uniformity.

After getting it close one then rotates each coupler individually to re-verify their squareness. if it goes wayout, stop and correct the flanges else chase it forever with bad results.

then upon clamping the couplings, if it takes more effort to rotate the system, or has a difficult spot, something is still amiss and will translate to vibration or worse yet, failure.
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That's a great idea. Thanks!!
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Thanks gottaski. These are the answers I was looking for. You guys are awesome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2020 at 11:15am
Brian,
Did you check your original shaft for straightness and if the coupling face was true to the bore?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2020 at 11:16am
One more, have you watched the alignment video? There's a link in the FAQ thread in the maintenance section.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Briandarflinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2020 at 4:01pm
Can't check the coupler the shaft is broken and still in it.. I guess I could check the shaft for straight if I had a glass coffee table.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2020 at 9:23am
Originally posted by Briandarflinger Briandarflinger wrote:

Can't check the coupler the shaft is broken and still in it.. I guess I could check the shaft for straight if I had a glass coffee table.

Brian,
The alignment video has a short mention of using a dial indicator for checking the shaft.


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