Velvet Drive leak |
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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I picked up a velvet drive for my project from a fellow member. Cleaning it up I thought the rear seal seems to be leaking but when I went to remove the drive coupling there was oil around the nut and spline area not on the outside where the seal area is. What is there to actually keep the oil from going past the inner bearing race and out the splines?
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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gary,
I remember Ken saying something about leaking at the spline but, I can't remember what it was! Damn my memory! I'm sure he will be along shortely.
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KENO ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11186 |
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Gary I may not be thinkin' straight here, but every time I've taken the coupling nut off, oil has come out. Put it on and tighten it back up and oil quits coming out Being a flanged nylock nut with a smooth surface to seat against the flange which is machined equally smooth where the nut seats , I'd say that this in conjunction with the nylon on the threads prevents external leakage along the shaft from the spline area and the big seal seals the OD of the coupling. Together they prevent leakage. |
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Duane in Indy ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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IIRC. I put a small coat of RTV on the face of the coupling and then torqued it down. No leaks yet
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Thanks guy's. I'll make sure it's clean and smooth then put in a new seal,a smear of RTV and some thread sealant in case the nylon is tired.
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phatsat67 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6157 |
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Gary, those have a crazy high torque number. I have never seen one tight leak before and have never seen any sort of sealant on the faces. I will have to check my book but IIRC it recommends like 170-250 FT/LBS torque on the nut.
The last one I put back on bent one of my round pry bars at like 180 FT/LB so that's where I left it at and it's bone dry. I reused the original 1978 nut as the transmission was NOS but had an oddball coupling on the back so I had to swap the original BFN coupler onto it. I don't think some RTV will hurt a thing but it shouldn't be needed unless the faces are in bad shape. I plan to make a locking tool for torquing those on as it's not an easy task.
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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My book says 100 to 200 FT/LBS. for the #4775L nut.
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phatsat67 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6157 |
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Just checked mine Pete. Mine says 160-260 Ft/Lbs. I imagine somewhere around 200 would be a fine number for anyone. Especially a Nylock.
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Gary,
Get the impact wrench out!
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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You know what - I know it was crazy numbers and now looking back I took it off with my electric impact which has at times trouble taking lug nuts off. It had probably been removed in the past and never tightened to the proper specs and that is why it was leaking....
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phatsat67 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6157 |
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Good call Gary, that would be my guess too. Tim's buddy had one this spring under similar circumstances. I think the coupler to shaft is likely an even more precisely machined fit vs the nut to coupling which would also seal any leaks coming out of the splines.
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gun-driver ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Wow 100 ft/lbs is a pretty big margin.
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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gun-driver ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Too funny
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KENO ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11186 |
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Borg Warner couldn't seem to agree with themselves. I have both of those manuals with all of those numbers. You could I suppose look up the torque value for a 1 inch 20 TPI nylock nut installed dry if you knew a little more about the nut like what grade it is. I think the value might be surprisingly high
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Duane in Indy ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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I would be reluctant to pull a full 200fp of torque on that short of a nut. Anything over 150fp would probably not help much anyway. Takes a stout lad to pull that much. lol
![]() Also my manual says nothing about sealer on the face, just my preference.
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Some people can bend a crowbar in a sandbox..... Get a long enough pipe and you too can put an S bend in your 3/4 drive. Old Ford tractors are known for leaky axle seals and around here brakes are nice to have. They require alot of foot pounds as well.
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