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HELP!! Transmission swap with PCM V-Drive |
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Liquiddreams 
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Joined: September-02-2020 Location: Georgia Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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 Topic: HELP!! Transmission swap with PCM V-DrivePosted: September-02-2020 at 2:04pm |
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First, I hate that my first post is a request for help. Second, I am taking picture along the way to aid others that attempt this down the road. I just found CorrectCraftFan today. A member of PlanetNautique recommended coming to this forum. This job has been fighting me for weeks now. Just bought the boat a few months ago (2012 SAN TE 210) and the transmission cooler went out which got water in the transmission. It started slipping before I caught it. Decided to upgrade from the 40 series to the 80 series instead of rebuilding. Since then It's been one thing after the other. It took weeks to get the transmission due to the Pandemic. The prop was stuck on the shaft when I went to take it off. The previous owners must have never taken off, because it fought me. Even heat wouldn't make it pop off. I ended up buying one of the ACME C-clamp pullers (which is not easy to find in stock right now). Got the prop off finally and started on the inside. Got the transmission cooler changed out to the 12" one with no problems. When I went to remove the shaft coupler it moved about 1/4" inch and now it refuses to let go. It literally bent the puller trying to get it off. Scared to use heat due to the gas tank be in such close proximity.
1. Any ideas on how to get that coupler off? I can pull the shaft forward so the two couplers are separated, but the shaft one is still on there. I have been using a harmonic balancer puller.I thought about trying the ACME C-clamp on it, but I am not sure there is enough clearance. 2. I thought about just putting some wood blocks under the v-drive to support it and then removing it's mounting bolts to slide it back enough to get the transmission out. Not sure if this would work and I am kind of afraid that I am going to mess up the shaft or the strut. Any thoughts on this approach or has some done this approach. I am open to any advice on this swap. I have worked on a lot of straight shafts, but this is my first v-drive. I really didn't think it would be that bad and if it wasn't for the shaft components I don't think it would be. Any one with experience swapping a transmission out that had a v-drive I would love some advice or tips. Anything else I need to worry about? I have been taking pictures with the hopes of uploading them in the end to assist anyone else that does it in the future. |
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Jonny Quest
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Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2979 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:09pm |
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Here is how I removed the coupler from the shaft In my direct drive. First, I removed the safety collar from the driveshaft. Then I removed the bolts connecting the coupler to the transmission flange and separated the coupler from transmission flange. I was able to get 2” To 3” space between coupler and transmission flange. Then I inserted a large, shallow socket between the coupler and transmission flange. I then inserted some grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts through the coupler bolt holes and through the transmission flange. Then by tightening down on the 4 bolts/nuts in sequence, the coupler on the prop shaft was “pressed” off the shaft. Easy Peazy. Hopefully my description makes sense. A V-drive maybe different...
JQ
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2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:32pm |
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I appreciate the reply and that is the scenario I am use to in my old boat. However, this 2012 has a PCM v-drive so the coupler set up is different. This is my first v-drive setup so I am still getting familiar with it. I am going to try to post a picture later for reference.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:33pm |
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I'd like to add to the above method. Use fine thread bolts or even grade 8 threaded rod. And then use some "never-seize". Both make it lots eaisier. I like to use threaded rod since you get more threads rather than switching to different length bolts.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:49pm |
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William,
Pictures have been lost when CCfan was hacked a couple months ago but I found a old post that may help:
One thing you mentioned that concerns me and that is you said the coupling moved slighly and then locked up. It shouldn't have moved at all. Again, the coupling to shaft is a heat shrink interference fit.
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KENO
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 5:55pm |
 Here's a picture of a coupler that probably looks a lot like yours. Matter of fact it is yours (or somebody with the same screen name and problem on PN )  Here's a link to a You Tube video down below. Maybe your harmonic balancer puller wasn't strong enough, you're going about it the right way from the description you gave. They can be on there tighter than tight. The method Pete and JQ talk about won't work with your coupler, you're doing it right though
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 6:07pm |
Yep, that is me and that is the picture of the devil. Lol Couldn't figure out how to post the pic from my phone. That is the video I watched and got me to where I am. I sprayed some penetrating fluid on it last night, so I'm about to head out there to see if it helped. Wish me luck |
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KENO
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 6:17pm |
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Here's wishin at ya kid
Are you using a puller with 4 bolts to distribute the force evenly around the flange. CCF phones and photos don't get along too good at all. |
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KENO
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 6:31pm |
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One other thing, I think I should mention that you have a double tapered shaft and it'll pop just like a prop does on the other end of the shaft. Nothing, nothing, then bam it pops.
You just don't have much room to whack the center bolt on the puller with a hammer when things are tight
When the time comes it's a lot easier to put the coupling back on the shaft with the tapered shaft setup. |
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 11:06pm |
It won!! I am standing down until I can get that puller like the one in the video. Then I will re-address this situation. Very disheartening... I have spent so much time on this prop and coupler that I could have already had the transmission in and back on the water. Thanks for all of the help and I am always open to advice or ideas. Going to throw together a DIY Post with pictures once this is all completed. I have scoured the internet for information and was very surprised at how limited it is out there.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: September-03-2020 at 5:24am |
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William,
It's great Ken did some footwork and found your PN post filling in some gaps in information. So, now that you have a double taper shaft, you don't need to worry about heat shrink interference fits. Good luck with using that puller. It looks like it will work for you.
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KENO
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Posted: September-03-2020 at 7:07am |
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Just remember, when the going gets tough, the tough pull out the reciprocating saw or grinder and show that shaft who's the boss
Then you buy a new shaft like in the link
I really only put that link there to show you where I got the double tapered shaft info from. Might be a silly question, not being familiar with a 2012 SAN 210, but how hard is it to remove the gas tank and slide the shaft and coupling out the front? One of those little voices in my head says it's probably fairly tough
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-03-2020 at 10:55pm |
Good call. I ordered the puller, but I was able to move the bow ballasts and gas tank forward (it was a pain btw). Got the shaft out with the coupler attached and the v-drive is removed. Tomorrow moving on to the transmission. I really appreciate everyone's input and assistance. More to follow as it moves along. |
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KENO
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Posted: September-04-2020 at 5:47am |
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Somebody has to ask those silly questions
Glad it's out and you're movin' on I'd pull the coupling when the new puller shows up just to clean up the seating surface on the shaft and hopefully make any future disassembly easier. (and much more importantly, just to show that coupling who the boss is) Some heat and tighten the center bolt on the puller good and tight and a good whack on the center bolt with a hammer should have it off.
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-05-2020 at 1:23am |
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Well, v-drive and transmission are out. I was going at a good pace until I go t to the bell housing to replace the damper plate.I have removed all of the dust cover bolts and I believe all of the bell housing bolts. However, that thing will not come off. Any tricks to get it to break free? I believe it might be the pain holding it on, but I didn't want to go beating on it. Any diagrams or posts with picture you all can aim me to. I have searched the threads and nothing about a stuck bell housing comes up.
On a side note: Is there any where I can go to get the torque specifications for the install? Thanks in advance
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Gary S
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Posted: September-05-2020 at 6:27am |
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This just came up on another thread with a damper replacement. Chevy's have another bolt under this plate-
You can thank Matt for his investigative work http://https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49060&KW=&PID=589252&title=dampener-plate-replacement-yikes#589252   |
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KENO
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Posted: September-05-2020 at 6:49am |
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Gary Your link .............it don't work Here's one that works If you look at the beginning of yours and compare to this link, you have http://https://, you can get rid of some of that crap and make it look like what's below. I have no idea what those numbers are in the middle and at the end of your link either. If only Keith had some instructions, since it's not exactly too easy to figure out Mpost helped me get things figured out.  There haven't exactly been too many hyperlinks posted since the site was restored. |
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Gary S
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Posted: September-05-2020 at 7:38am |
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Thanks Ken. I didn’t check that after I posted it’s way to fricking early. Since the ice is out I wanted to get an early start to the holiday weekend
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KENO
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Posted: September-05-2020 at 7:52am |
I thought it was a little early in the morning for you Gary Probably be all iced over by Monday morning so hurry up
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-05-2020 at 9:33am |
Thanks. I found that late last night and I am planning on checking that this morning. I didn't even remove the plate. I would have never thought the manufacturer would have hidden a bolt under there. I have rubbed the back of that bell housing so much I think it is going to press charges. Lol |
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:02pm |
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Well, everything is in, but now the shaft coupler isn't seating correctly. Cannot get the shoulder on to even start the alignment. I have been looking for alignment steps on the forums, but so far I have not been able to find them. The coupler looks like an even gap all the way around, but it just want seat. Any ideas?
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KENO
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:41pm |
How hard did the coupling come apart after the bolts were out? Maybe the alignment was off when you got the boat.
Maybe you need to move the engine, transmission and v drive enough to let the coupling halves mate, then you can worry about the alignment. Page 44 thru 47 in the link give you some guidance on alignment with a brief mention of your PCM v drive and a bunch of illustrations of the earlier style that had the coupling under the v drive instead of the pass thru shaft style. |
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KENO
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:46pm |
Did you take the coupling off the shaft and clean things up, then reinstall it? Or just slap it back in without removing the coupling? What ever happened with the 1/4 inch mentioned above? So many questions
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:49pm |
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It was actually extremely hard to get it apart. However, once it came apart it did not want to seat again (I know this because it took a while to get the shaftbout lol). The coupler and the prop both were stuck on the shaft (almost looked like rust under them). Once they were removed I lapped both ends to assure a good fit. Made sure the faces were good. It looks like it lines right up and starts the seat, but won't go all the way. It is an even gap all the way around. That is why I don't even know where to start the adjustment.
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:52pm |
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Oh no, I don't do anything half ass. Lol. My coupler puller came in and I spent a while making sure shaft and coupler were good. Another response above with more detail
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:55pm |
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https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/20030/20200901_183304.jpg
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:56pm |
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Took a pic but I am not sure oif the link is going to work. It was worth a shot
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Gary S
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 8:58pm |
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Liquiddreams
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 9:01pm |
That was the original one when it was being a booger to come I ut. Thanks Gary |
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KENO
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Posted: September-06-2020 at 9:03pm |
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If the coupler is not on the shaft, does it mate up easily with the other half on the v drive? Just me thinking, but I think it was out of alignment when you bought it and while you're looking at it all twisted and contorted to get a look at it, it might look good to the naked eye, but be off enough to prevent the couplers from mating right.
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8122pbrainard wrote: