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TG3 View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-19-2021 at 10:44pm
I dropped the rudder today as part of replacing my driveshaft, packing etc. 

The packing looks really good, see picture. The previous owner did some work on the steering cable and he must have replaced the packing, looks like the goretex type.

I have read as much as I could find on rudders and the question I have is about grease. Some people add grease zerts, some smear grease on the shaft before reassembly, some say no grease at all. On mine, there was no grease in there or on the rudder shaft. 

My steering is smooth at idle and turns easily with one finger, but at speed its a bit more work. I have read that some people can turn their boat at speed with one finger after greasing.

What is the right way to grease the rudder?
1997 Air/Sport Nautique
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Jonny Quest View Drop Down
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My 1994 had a factory grease zerk fitting on the rudder port...it was just a bugger to get to.
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Are you sure the cable is 100% good?  

When I had mine apart I greased shaft liberally (no zerk) with anti seize.  Any water resistant grease would work.

With new cable, mine was 1 finger steering at any speed.
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My understanding from reading here is that you do not use grease with the gortex packing.  Thus, I used the wax rope and used grease for my rudder, and it fixed my steering issues.  I used the gortex on my stuffing box.  

I would advocate grease and wax rope.  
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Thanks for the responses all. As for the cable, I’ll double check with previous owner. He is a friend of mine.
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rebel skier View Drop Down
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Now that the website if faster, it almost looks like I can see the ridge of the top of the packing nut extending out beyond the rope packing.  When that nut is compressed that rope should have compressed and filled that space and there should be no ridge such that your rudder should have very little play (grab the rudder under the boat and try to move for aft and side to side).  Does that rope extend out and completely touch all sides of the rudder, or is there a gap?  

It makes we wonder if the nut was not tight enough or if the rope is the wrong size?  
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Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

My 1994 had a factory grease zerk fitting on the rudder port...it was just a bugger to get to.

Jonny

I'm just astounded that you never put a remote grease fitting kit on your rudder or made your own, then it wouldn't be a bugger at all Wink

Here's an example in the link


or if someone wanted to spend bigger bucks, here's an example from Nautiqueparts
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Do you guys grease the slide part of the cable that attaches to the rudder?  I dropped my rudder and greased that up the other day and noticed some grime on the slide portion of the cable but it doesn't look like it was ever greased.  
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Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

My 1994 had a factory grease zerk fitting on the rudder port...it was just a bugger to get to.

Jonny

I'm just astounded that you never put a remote grease fitting kit on your rudder or made your own, then it wouldn't be a bugger at all Wink

Here's an example in the link


or if someone wanted to spend bigger bucks, here's an example from Nautiqueparts


I really enjoyed pushing my aging body into contorted positions so that I...could...just...barely...reach...that...zerk.  A remote grease fitting kit just makes too much sense.  I think I'll put one on the new SNOB though...

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When I replaced my prop shaft in 2014 I added a grease zerk to my rudder.  Did not install an extension on the zerk and have not greased the rudder since 2014.  I guess I should have planned better also JQ.
The steering has been light and smooth since install but new grease is due!
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None of my boats have greasable rudder ports, the staeering on them is light, smooth and no water leakage so I'm confused.  


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Umm Pete

You might read this quote below, you may not have a grease fitting but..........

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Eric, Eric has seen probably more rudder shafts and ports than I have but I too have never seen much wear on ether. Your friend Ed sounds like a capable guy but he may be missing the fact that the rudder and the port are two different alloys and two different hardness's. Remote lube points sure make things easy but have been around for a long time on lots of equipment. The parts needed are available at the hardware store or supply house including the bulk head fitting that you mentioned to as special. It's my opinion that it's overkill to install the remote point. Check your cable as Eric has mentioned. If it is your rudder shaft that is binding then it's the packing that may be dried out. Repack and grease it. I put a new bottom on my wood X55 27 years ago and at that time had the rudder and port out of the boat. I didn't repack but did throw some grease it it and tighten up the packing. I haven't touched it since. It doesn't have a Zurk on it.:

If you're confused, I can link the thread it came from Wink

You probably have some 40 year old grease in there
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Originally posted by rebel skier rebel skier wrote:

Now that the website if faster, it almost looks like I can see the ridge of the top of the packing nut extending out beyond the rope packing.  When that nut is compressed that rope should have compressed and filled that space and there should be no ridge such that your rudder should have very little play (grab the rudder under the boat and try to move for aft and side to side).  Does that rope extend out and completely touch all sides of the rudder, or is there a gap?  
It makes we wonder if the nut was not tight enough or if the rope is the wrong size?  
That’s a good observation. I will slide it back on the rudder before reinstalling it and see how it looks and make sure that it is the correct size packing. 

Pete, are you saying that your boats don’t have zurks so therefore no grease?
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Yes it's relativity a new thing - my 95 does not even have one. 
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Nor my 2001san.

D
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As mentioned, some later boats were fitted with greasable rudder ports. Here's one from Nautique Parts:



The major difference with these greaseable ports is they are tpically fitted with seals to prevent grease leakage. Without seals, any grease applied to the port/rudder shaft will eventually wash out. When installing a non greasable, it's not bad to add some grease. Comsider this to be "assembly" grease which will help with the initial lubriction before water gets to the packing. 


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Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

The major difference with these greaseable ports is they are tpically fitted with seals to prevent grease leakage. Without seals, any grease applied to the port/rudder shaft will eventually wash out. When installing a non greasable, it's not bad to add some grease. Comsider this to be "assembly" grease which will help with the initial lubriction before water gets to the packing. 

That makes sense about the seals and the grease washing out. I'll grease it up for assembly as you suggested.

Thanks!
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Just dropped the rudder on '93 Ski Nautique. The rudder port does have a zerk, but I can find no evidence of grease seals nor of old grease for that matter. Also, I cannot find any reference to or source for replacement seals. TIA for any suggestions on how to proceed.
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You've probably figured out that there's no consistency on whether your rudder port has a zerk fitting or not.

You didn't mention why you took the rudder out, but assuming that everything is good, or fixed or whatever, stick it back in, repack with your choice of packing and grease is optional but not absolutely necessary

Just call it "assembly grease" and give it a shot or 2 every now and then Wink

It won't hurt anything
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Neither my previous '96 or my current '97 had zerk fittings.  I installed them on both ('96 was new rudder hub for different issue, '97 I tapped the rudder hub and installed the zerk fitting myself).  Best thing I did (instead of dropping the rudder).  The extension is a good idea; taking the engine cover off to pull the floorboard is a PITA.  I find that 100hrs is a good time to re-grease, but I just do it at every 50hr oil change.  If I go over 100hrs and the water gets cold, it starts to get stiffer.  A quick shot of grease and all is good.  I suspect I don't have any seals, but the grease seems to last a good 100hrs.  The only negative to the extension is not seeing the grease coming out of the top of the hub when you are pumping it.  But if you are doing it every 50hrs like I do, then 8-10 pumps and it's probably enough.

If I grease it every 50 hrs, there is NO boat in our club that steers better than mine (okay, the '21 MC is pretty close but it's only five months old......   :)
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Keep in mind that the prop forces against the rudder are from one side, so the wear will occur unevenly.  It will slightly oval out the softer rudder shaft.  On my old Mastercraft, I was told to remove the rudder base assembly, rotate it 90 degrees, and reinstall the rudder using waterproof axle grease.  That tightened up the feel closer to new since the wear was no longer matching up.  Grease is cheap.  Marine parts are not!
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Hey guys, I have a small leak I think is coming from my rudder port. I’m going to pull the rubber and replace the parking. It’s never been done as far as I know. I see that I can buy 3/16 or 1/4 packing. Which one should I use for a 96 Sport?
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Canuck:

Before you do, try tightening the gland nut.  That usually stops the leak.  As the rudder doesn't spin like a prop shaft, a little twist or 2 won't hurt anything.  Just make sure that the rudder still turns freely.  If your rudder port has a grease zerk, give that a shot of water resistant grease.

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I'll try that. But for future reference, what is the correct packing size?
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Originally posted by Canuck-Surfer Canuck-Surfer wrote:

I'll try that. But for future reference, what is the correct packing size?

The correct size will be whatever size you didn't buy Wink

You can search and find people who used  3/16 and others who used 1/4 with the same rudder as yours, so since the packing is pretty dirt cheap.............buy some of each and you can't go wrong.
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