2002 GT40 Turns over, Wont Run

- Checked positive and negative battery cables, both are tight and showing 12 volts

- Tested the fuse on the positive battery cable, it both looks good and is flowing 12 volts

- Tested lanyard, it is showing good continuity 

- Tried to press the three breakers on the back of the engine, all three appear ok

- Tested continuity of the 60 AMP breaker, it was fine

When I press the start button the boat wakes up but I don't hear the pump priming. Any other ideas? 

I don't know where the pump is (still learning the boat) nor can I figure out where to jumper the relays to see if those are bad. I am open to ideas/suggestions. Pictures help if you have them, I have been reading threads to troubleshoot but am at a bit of a loss at this point. 

Thank you

If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, that will also tell you very quickly if there is a pump issue (high or low pressure pumps)...

Going off my GT40 (should be the same basic fuel delivery system even if GM), the high pressure pump is inside the FCC.  The low pressure pump (both are electric) is probable under your FCC, but you should be able to follow the inlet hose to the FCC back to the low pressure pump.

You can also pull a spark plug wire and get it close to ground and turn over the engine (the end of the spark plug wire should be no more than about 1/4" from a good ground surface.  If it sparks, then I'd go back to fuel.

Between the two GT40s I've had, I have more than 2,000hrs experience.  I've never had an ignition issue once.  I've had several fuel-related issues, but all have been fairly easy to diagnose.

I have a key; not the push button dash pod, so I don't know how/when the pumps turn on before you start it.  With a keyed start switch, when you turn the ignition on (first position from off), the pumps both go on for a second or two (you can hear them with the engine cover up) and then stop.  They start again when you turn the starter (of course you can't hear them then (although you could put a volt meter on the positive side of connector to either of the pumps and to ground and see if you get 12 volts when the pumps should be on).

There is a jumper you can use to manually turn the pumps on, but if you don't have a GT40, I don't know if it will be the same or not.

You said you hear a clicking sound when you connect and disconnect the safety lanyard.  What relay is that flipping?  Since my '97 has a key, if the safety lanyard is disconnected, my starter turns, but there is no power to the fuel pumps/ignition (or both--I'll have to test and see if it kills both or just the fuel pumps).

I also need to mention (sorry to say) that it makes me a bit nervous that your repair shop used only a battery charger to power the electronics.  Most battery chargers are notoriously electronically noisy; they are not made for powering electronics.  They are fine for charging batteries and maybe running motors or lights, but not good for electronics.  They are okay when there is a battery in place because the battery acts as a sort of capacitor/filter of some of the electronic noise.  Even your alternator makes noise; it's never a good idea to disconnect your battery while your engine is running and power everything from just the alternator.  I won't get into more detail here, but you've got an electronic dash pod.  I don't know what all is involved in the dashboard electronics to enable entering code, start and stop buttons, but I would be very careful with the power supply I use for any electronics.  If I need to power any electronics in my boat or cars when the main battery is out, I always use a battery-operated jumper box.  Since the power source from them is a battery and therefore completely clean DC (vs the inverted AC from a battery charger or even an alternator), I know I'm not going to harm any electronics.

Let us know.

Do you mean that the wire from the cable had come out of the cable terminal that clamps onto the battery post?  A picture would help; I want to know where you're measuring 4 volts on what wire coming off the battery.  

For the 4v I pulled the power cable off the Fuel Pump (front of engine, Port side) and put my multi-meter in those connection. I was trying to see if the fuel pump was getting power. Is that not the correct spot to measure voltage? 

Per your point #4 below, I think that is the same cable I used to measure voltage. Dark here now but can work to get a picture in the morning. 

Yes, the red positive wire that connects to the Positive side of the battery. The cables had come undone from the terminal connector. I made sure the large (10 gauge?) wire for the starter was in there as well as the smaller cable that has a fuse on it. To your point, I thought the smaller wire powered the rest of the boat and it does seem to be providing sufficient power as everything else seems to be working. 

The other question is if the new radio could have a short or be pulling voltage. I can't imagine why but that is the only other thing that would have changed. 

Kevin

Yes, to check power to the pump, that is the correct place.  I thought you said when you measured 4v, it was also near the battery, not just at the pump harness.  I'll run out in a bit and check the voltage on mine but I'm sure it will be 12 volts when the pumps run.  I assume the rest of your electronics and accessories (stereo, blower, lights, horn, etc.) all are working correctly with sufficient voltage (I always turn my blower on; I can tell the state of my battery by the speed in which it blows).

When you jump the fuel pump relay connector to ground, you should hear the relay and the pumps should turn on.  If not (and all of your other accessories work (regular voltage), then I'd look at all of the breakers again and confirm voltage on both sides of the breaker terminals.

Ok, some new information. I cleaned the terminals and the cables and was able to verify 12v across the following areas:

- cigarette lighter

- 60 amp breaker

- across leads of fuel pump relay (pulled plug out of relay)

I am still not getting voltage to fuel pump. I believe i was reading my multi-meter incorrectly last night and was getting .04 volts at the fuel pump. Suggests maybe the relay again? 

I attempted to jump it the relay but the picture appears to be different and I wasn't really successful. These are the pictures from the back of the boat:

Huge help here as well. I did check the voltage at the red arrow, it was 12 volts so I felt good there was power there. 

You all are life savers