stringer "maintenance" |
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tjlake
Senior Member Joined: June-23-2006 Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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Posted: October-19-2006 at 10:23am |
During preparations for winterizing the boat, I noticed that the "weep" holes in the stringers between the exhaust channel and engine well were clogged. After cleaning out and drying, the stringers appear to be solid except for about an inch around the hole. The fibergla$$ is still intact. Here is my plan and I wanted to get ya'll's opinion before starting.
Gonna fill the deteriorated void with something?(any suggestions?). It has to be putty-like to allow me to work it in behind the hole and also to keep it from flowing in to the engine well. Not going to seal the hole, just the area around it. Next, I plan to seal the filler with silicone, epoxy,etc. The final step will be to take a 1/2" piece of copper, about 4" long, flare one end, grind the bottom flange flat so as not to create a lip, then silicone it in place. My idea is to create a true port that is free flowing and easily cleaned. Any ideas before I begin? I did not see anything in the archives quite like this and maybe I can prevent/prolong stringer replacement. The rest of the boat and floors are in excellent shape. Thanks, in advance for your help...Joe |
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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I like the copper sleeve tube idea. Here is a suggestion. Install the sleeve first off and seal around the edges with anything except silicon. I suggest Life Boat caulk. Next, drill some 1/4" holes into the stringer from the accessible side just above the rotted area. Drill a series of holes that just penetrate into the rotted area at about a 45 degree angle. Now, pour "GIT ROT" or thinned (with Acetone) epoxy resin into the holes. Keep adding epoxy until the wood will accept no more. Hopefully, if you installed the sleeve with Life Boat Caulk, then the epoxy will not just run out the backside. If you can get to both sides, even better.
Once the epoxy sets up, grind down the fibergla$$ a bit in the area of the holes and apply three layers of new gla$$ (patch). Each layer should be slightly larger than the previous. Feather out the edges with the grinder, thickend epoxy, or bondo. Paint the patch with bilge paint. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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I hate silicone! It doesn't even stick to itself. Use 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant or life caulk. They don't refer to 5200 as a adhesive for no reason. The only place silicone is good is when it's compressed between two flanges and I've even had that fail.
As a wood boat owner, I really don't like the use of git rot since it is a temporary solution. The wood next to the git rot fill will now rot faster but sometimes it's the only choice. Wood that is "encapsulated" is always a problem. Pete |
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tjlake
Senior Member Joined: June-23-2006 Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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Thanks David and Pete. I actually used the word silicon in a generic manner. However, I picked up the Git Rot and 5200 at lunch today. Will probably "set" the flange and let it cure overnight, then will fill with git rot this weekend. Thanks for the tips..Joe
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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I suggest you purchase way more "Git Rot" than you think you could possibly need. If you do not use it all, you can take it back. However, if you run short, you are SOL (and I am not talking about beer).
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tjlake
Senior Member Joined: June-23-2006 Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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I did notice that, so I bought twice as much as I thought I would need..Did the same thing on the "Git Rot", too... I think this will be at least a 12 pack project..per stringer
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