Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 1989 SN Water in Oil / Wet Plug
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

1989 SN Water in Oil / Wet Plug

 Post Reply Post Reply Page   123>
Author
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1989 SN Water in Oil / Wet Plug
    Posted: February-07-2023 at 4:09pm
Hi Everyone,

I have a 1989 Ski Nautique, and I have a small trace of water in the oil. The oil it not like a milkshake, but on the dip stick, I see a bit of white looking reside/goo with some bubbles higher up on the dip stick. The oil on the lower part of the dip stick looks in pretty good shape.


The engine is still running fine, but I pulled the plugs, and the plug from cylinder no.1 (closest to driver seat) had some water droplets on it. The others were dry.


I have removed the starboard riser, and when doing so, I noticed that the riser bolts seemed a lot looser than I was expecting. I was prepared to have a battle to remove them, but the took almost no force to loosen. So I thought that might have been the issue - leaking gaskets. However, I don't see any rust marks inside the riser or looking down into the exhaust manifold. It has a smooth carbon/soot layer. The riser gaskets also looked in good shape. I haven't removed the exhaust manifold yet.

I have owned the board for about 15 years, and I can see that the riser gaskets were installed the wrong way round (blocking the incorrect port!). So I'll have to change that, since I assume that will affect the cooling? Is that a major concern?



I was assuming my issue was a bad riser gasket... but they look better than I was expecting.

Any advise on what to check next? A compression test? Could a bad head gasket cause this water leak?

If that passes, I assume I should remove the exhaust manifold?

FYI - I live in South Africa, Cape Town, where we never reach freezing temperatures, so a crack due to that is not possible.

Thanks in advance,
Greg
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 10605
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2023 at 6:27pm
I think since you're thinking of pulling the exhaust manifold, you should pull that side valve cover and see if there's a gooey milkshake mess in the head and valve cover. With the manifold off, you can get a better look at the #1 cylinder exhaust passage in the head and in the manifold.

Like you're thinking, do a compression check since a bad head gasket could cause water in the cylinder and it can leak by the rings into the oil.

Take a picture with the valve cover off.

With the riser gaskets installed the right way, the top of your risers will be a lot cooler to the touch Wink


Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-09-2023 at 12:57am
Awesome, thanks Thumbs Up

Will post photos and the results of the above ASAP.

1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
MrMcD View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-28-2014
Location: Folsom, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 3582
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-09-2023 at 12:54pm
If my thinking is correct the engine gets water from the Raw Water Pump before it diverts cooling water to your exhaust manifolds so the engine should not have any overheat issues due to your exhaust gasket being wrong but your exhaust would have been hot with the gasket wrong.

Has the engine been overheated in the past months?  Engine overheats can crush your head gasket and cause a leak into the chamber.  It can also crack a cylinder head and do the same.  When the heads get hot they expand more than normal.  This expansion crushes the head gasket and it will fail soon after.  Usually not right away but within the next 20 times you use it so many times people forget about the overheat that caused the gasket to fail.  With this type overheat the crush happens where it was the most hot so Cylinder 1
can fail while cylinder 3 is fine.  If you check torque on the head bolts the bolts around the failure point will be looser than all other head bolts.  With the valve cover and exhaust off you could check torque in few minutes.

If the #1 cylinder has been leaking coolant into the chamber the cylinder head chamber will be very clean and the piston head will be very clean.  When your fuel charge explodes as the engine runs it will turn the water in there into steam which steam cleans that chamber and piston head.   The larger your leak the cleaner they get.  A large leak would foul the plug and you would have a dead miss.  Maybe stick a scope into that #1 cylinder and look at the piston head and valves to see if they have been cleaned by steam and the valve could be rusty.  You would see this looking into the exhaust port.  The exhaust valve might be rusty.
You said the engine runs good so maybe the problem is minor but water should not be on the spark plug.  Good Luck

Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-11-2023 at 4:13am
Thanks Guys. There were no signs of overheating (I always keep a very close eye on the temp gauge Smile always between 150 and 160). About a year ago, I saw my normal running temp was sometimes climbing about 10 degrees higher than normal (after slowing after a hard run), then I replaced the raw water pump which had worn bearings. But I don't think that was in issue. It never climbed of 170.

Yesterday I wanted to do a compression test, but with the plug removed, there were very small puffs of water misting out the plug hole when cranking.

This morning, I removed the exhaust manifold, and there are no signs of any water (no rust steaks, etc). They actually look in very good condition. The exhaust port on the head looks clean too (black).

Then I noticed that there was a lot of water in the cylinder. So much that I had to suck out with a syringe (via the spark plug plug hole).

Could it be an intake manifold leak between the water passage and intake port at cylinder 1? Could a bad intake gasket cause a leak like this?

I'm going to pull the intake later today.
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-12-2023 at 10:34am
So I removed the intake manifold, and the oil/water mix is worse than my initial photo showed on the dip stick (which was before I headed back to the dock).
Lots of milk shake all over  Confused And the "heat shield" was loose! Lying in the position shown!



I can't see any obvious signs of a leak in the manifold gasket at cylinder 1 and no signs of any rust in the intake ports (intake or head).


After cleaning the goop off the intake, it looks like this. Clearly a hole in the "exhaust passage/bypass" but it seems like that doesn't lead anywhere - the exhaust ports on the intake are solid cast iron i.e. don't seem to be used? Based on this, should I replace the manifold anyway, even if it is not the cause of the water leak?



So maybe it is the head/head gasket?

Can I still do a compression test in this state of disassembly? Refit the distributor?

Feels like I am going down a rabbit hole Unhappy

1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 10605
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2023 at 8:12am
You can compression test it in that condition, but putting the distributor back in to drive the oil pump is a good idea (no power to the distributor and no need to worry about TDC etc, it just has to turn the oil pump) and disconnecting the fuel pump suction hose is also a good idea, so that you're not spraying fuel out the discharge line  Also leave the valve covers on for "less mess" 

edit and take the RWP belt off if you haven't already done that

The rabbit hole gets deeper with no obvious sign of where the leakage is from.

I think replacement would be the best intake manifold approach



Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2023 at 12:00pm
Great, thanks. Really appreciate the assistance Thumbs Up

I'll post my results ASAP.

1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 10605
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2023 at 8:54am
You mentioned that the ports in the manifold for the exhaust crossover passage are solid or are plugged.

The 2 blue lines are pointing at what I think you're saying are plugged. Ford didn't build it that way

Some intake gaskets blank off the crossover passage, some leave it open and come with small stainless steel spacers/blanks that can be installed when installing the gaskets, if somebody wants to block off the heat passage.

Leaving them open or blocking them off is one of those things that people will always disagree about, but in your case that big gaping hole makes up your mind for you or the guy before you that blanked them off.


If that's the case and the boat was running fine except for the water issue, the manifold should be able to be reused.

Now as far as what caused the exhaust to burn through that cast iron.........that's a good question   Wink

Being in South Africa, like Wilhelm Hertzog here on the site, I'd imagine you have the same availability and cost issues that he does, leading to some creative solutions.
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2023 at 11:58am
Hi Keno,

Yes, that is correct. At the blue arrows, the intake is solid. Must have been the previous owner that had the intake blocked off, maybe after the exhaust passage burnt through? There was a sticker on the engine from an engineering shop... so the engine was definitely worked on at some point (more than 15 years ago).

When I clean the surfaces of the intake, I'll see if there is any evidence of a "blanking" operation on those exhaust ports. I'll also clean up the hole, to make sure than no rusting pieces can fall off in the long run.

A new intake will be double the price once it lands in South Africa Confused So reusing the old one will save a lot of cash!

Wilhelm and I have chatted a few times in the past to compare notes Wink
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
MrMcD View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-28-2014
Location: Folsom, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 3582
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2023 at 12:36pm
You can see in your photos a lot of silicone was used around the water ports at both ends of your heads.  A little bit to fill in pitted spots around the ports is fine.  Your engine had a LOT of silicone used.  You can see it squeezed out and actually reached the intake ports.   Gasoline vapor will turn silicone into a grease like substance and cause the intake port to leak.   You do not want silicone exposed to the intake Air Fuel Mix.  That is a big No No in the engine world.   Might be why you had water in your #1 cylinder.  Could be the cause of your water in the engine.  
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2023 at 1:03pm
Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, I was not happy to see that amount of sealant used. I know the newer/better gaskets have their own "bead" to seal the water ports better.

If there was a leak from the water port to the intake port, wouldn't I see some rust in the intake port?


1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
Jonny Quest View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: August-20-2013
Location: Utah--via Texas
Status: Offline
Points: 2822
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2023 at 2:35pm
I recognize that being located in South Africa has challenges in cost and availability, but if possible, an upgrade to an aluminum intake manifold would be a nice upgrade in terms of engine performance and weight.  The Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM intake manifolds are nice options.  Also, the Weiand Stealth Intake manifold is an option.  Fel-Pro intake gasket number 1262 S-3 may be a good choice for the 351W SBF marine application.  I believe that these gaskets already have the exhaust cross-over port blocked.

As mentioned above with the RTV silicone, just a SMALL bead around the water port is all that's needed...that and a good-sized bead on the "China Walls" instead of the cork or rubber options.

JQ
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2023 at 11:58pm
Thanks JQ. If I do replace the intake, I had my eye on the Edelbrock Performer 2181 (with carb adapter 2732). I believe it will fit under the hood without any changes to my flame arrestor, etc.

Thanks for confirming the gasket, and China Wall info Thumbs Up
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 10605
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2023 at 1:20pm
I don't think some extra RTV caused your problem since it took at least 15 years for the leak to show up and then show no signs of water/rust in the intake port on the head either Wink

I think the problem hasn't been found yet.
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2023 at 1:31am
So, I managed to do a compression test (just cylinders 1 to 4). It is an old gauge, so not sure how accurate it is, but at least it seems to show that cylinder 1 compression isn't lower than the rest. No 2 is actually the lowest. But in general they are all quite low?

1 - 115
2 - 95
3 - 110
4 - 100

A few things to note - not sure if it matters...The engine was cold and the cranking was slow (I think my starter motor is busy going - I have a new one still to be fitted). I did squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders.
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 10605
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2023 at 10:01am
I think this is the time when you decide whether you want to pull the head(s) and see if there's any sign of water.

If you do, make sure the engine is drained first, so a bunch of water doesn't get into the cylinders from the head when it's first lifted off

Compression may not be great but it's OK and you said the engine ran fine but you noticed the small amount of water back in the first post. And like you said it could be the gauge.
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 12:39pm
Finally, an update... but thing don't look good. I pulled the head, and I can't see any obvious issues there.

But inside cylinder 1, there was some surface rust, but one bright orange "bubbly" line.



Cleaned it off, and can see a crack Unhappy


So time to start shopping for a new block / crate engine? Not going to be easy here in South Africa.
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
Jonny Quest View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: August-20-2013
Location: Utah--via Texas
Status: Offline
Points: 2822
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 12:58pm
Greg:

That cracked cylinder is very unfortunate.  Depending on parts availability and cost, a new block and a full rebuild would be my first suggestion.  After that, a drop-in remanufactured engine would be my second choice.  ATK Remanufactured Marine Engines is an option.  I know several people that have gone that route with good success.  I don't know what international shipping and duty/import taxes in S.A. would look like, but either way, it will likely be expensive.  Best of luck to you.

JQ
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum
Back to Top
swilliams View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: June-26-2016
Location: Cincinnati,Ohio
Status: Offline
Points: 234
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 1:39pm
Forgive me for my ignorance but can that be sleeved?
1976 Martinique,350 Omc. 1975 Glastron/Carlson CV16,115 Merc.
Back to Top
MrMcD View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-28-2014
Location: Folsom, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 3582
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 2:18pm
In the USA a machine shop could certainly install a sleeve in that block and you would have a 100% repair.   My question would be why is that cylinder cracked?    If the engine had been bored out and is running larger pistons a crack is more possible but still rare.  Almost never see a stock bore block crack down the cylinder.
Makes me wonder if that block had been hydro locked at some point, water in the cylinder can cause extreme pressure, usually we see a bent connecting rod or broken piston from hydro lock.   
When they sleeve a cylinder they take a boring tool and oversize the cylinder to receive a pre made sleeve.  The sleeve is pressed in and the block is decked giving you a brand new cylinder finish.   It is a proven process but I do not know what parts and machine shop tools are available for you in Africa.   
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 3:13pm
Thanks guys. I have a friend in the marine industry, and he has already sent photos to his contacts to advise on a sleeve.

Also investigating the ATK long block options. But I think the shipping and duties are going to be very high.

Either way, in the mean time I'll strip the rest of the accessories and prepare to pull the motor.
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
Wilhelm Hertzog View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: June-14-2014
Location: Cape Town
Status: Offline
Points: 325
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 3:23pm
Greg, I'll send you a WhatsApp. I sourced a new block in great condition for my engine for a very reasonable price a few years ago through a lmuscle car builder here in Cape Town. There is actually a pretty vibrant muscle car scene here in SA, and Windsor engines do float around locally.
1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 3:49pm
Awesome, thanks Wilhelm Thumbs Up Any leads would be great. I'll also call a few engine builders tomorrow and see if I can find anything.
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 10605
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2023 at 6:20pm
Well, I guess the good news is that you found the problem and maybe you've reached the bottom of the rabbit hole.

Not knowing if the block is an 89 original with 34 years of corrosion in the cooling system or if it's a newer one, I'd get the whole block checked real good before sleeving one cylinder, since you probably wouldn't be too happy if it happened to another cylinder a short time later

Those pistons aren't original to an 89 PCM 351W so there's a chance the block was bored, oversized pistons used and there's not a lot of wall thickness left in any of the cylinders

Myself, I'm hoping you find something like Wilhelm did  Wink
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2023 at 3:02pm
So using the Wilhelm's engine builder contact, I may have found a 351w long block that is in very good shape, with a performer (non-RPM) intake. Clap Price is also good.

It is automotive though. Confused At least my '89 is standard rotation, but I have a few questions.

I would obviously fit all my marine accessories:
 - distributor (original prestolite)
 - circulation pump (bought from SkiDim a few years back)
 - carburetor (Quick Fuel M-600) with proper fuel line.
 - starter (Arco 70200)
 - alternator (original)
 - fuel pump (bought from SkiDim a few years ago)
 - oil pan? for clearance? Not sure if this matters in the '89 which is mounted "level"

Are the automotive block/heads compatible?
 - For my raw water cooling, I assume I should fit brass freeze plugs. In the block and head?
 - Is the marine camshaft different? Does it matter?
 - Any other internals that are different?

Anything I am missing... If it can't work, then I'll have to look at other options.

Thanks for all the help so far!
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
MrMcD View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-28-2014
Location: Folsom, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 3582
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2023 at 4:24pm
Good find, Marine cams were a little more aggressive than the automotive passenger car and truck cam.  These engines had a low RPM top speed, 4,600 RPM I think.  The cam was matched to make best power in that range.In a boat a strong idle is mandatory so cam selection is usually very tame, more like an RV cam for truck use.   All other internal parts should be the same.   For marine use engine builders traditionally will loosen up the Piston to Cylinder wall clearance maybe .0005 or 1/2 thousandth.  They may leave a little more crank and rod clearance but not much.   If you run the automotive engine as is the only thing I would advise it a warm up before any hard use.  The extra clearance marine builders use is to protect the engine against abuse by boat drivers that ignore the common warm up procedures and ignore that the marine engine typically runs colder than the automotive.  140 vs 190*.  
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 10605
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2023 at 6:04pm
Some other things to transfer from your old engine would be

Timing cover......it gives a place to mount the Raw Water Pump bracket, the automotive one will be different

Flywheel.....your marine one is 157 teeth, automotive 351's were 164 teeth

Damper plate, you might consider a new one while everything is apart

With the Edelbrock intake, make sure you use the spacer plate you mentioned earlier, an Edelbrock 2732 or there are other brands  that accomplish the same thing. Use wide gaskets on both sides of the plate.

You mentioned the oil pan, it may take some comparing or a test fit in the boat, but if you swap pans, swap the oil pump suction tube and strainer to go with the pan and if you have an oil pan drain hose swap that over before the engine goes in.

And like you mentioned the freeze plugs in the block and the heads could get changed to brass. Steel will eventually rust out.

The camshafts aren't much different at all, but if for some reason you swap, make sure the lifters get swapped too and stay with their associated camshaft lobes.

Not really knowing anything about the new engine like amount of use it's had, what it has for internals, is it a rebuild etc makes it  kinda hard to talk about clearances, cams etc Wink


Back to Top
Jonny Quest View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: August-20-2013
Location: Utah--via Texas
Status: Offline
Points: 2822
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2023 at 10:10pm
Nice list KENO.  I'm assuming that the long block does not have valve covers.  If, by chance, the long block has valve covers, I would consider keeping the PCM units as the automotive version may not play nice with the exhaust risers and clearance.  What heads are on the long block?  Recent valve job?

JQ
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum
Back to Top
Greg_SA View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: April-19-2007
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 168
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_SA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2023 at 11:52pm
Thanks Keno and JQ for all the tips. At least is looks like the engine can work.

I'll discuss all of this with the engine rebuilder, and decide what I do and what he does Wink

The long block has valve covers, but I plan to use my PCM aluminum valve covers (get them cleaned up and repainted).

Will also look into the new damper plate - only down side is that he price doubles by the time it gets to me Confused But I also don't want to have a "new" engine that I need to pull again soon.
1989 Ski Nautique (SN2001)
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page   123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Copyright 2024 | Bagley Productions, LLC