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Neutral Safety switch |
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Rob-Man 
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Joined: August-05-2012 Location: St. Louis Status: Offline Points: 64 |
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 Topic: Neutral Safety switchPosted: June-05-2023 at 12:35pm |
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I have to jiggle the throttle handle more than normal to get the engine to turn over. Everything appears to shift fine so I don't think it is a cabling issue. I ordered the NSS switch from nautique parts - where is the switch located, on the transmission? wanted to take the boat before the switch gets here. is there a way to temporary bypass the NSS switch?
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11125 |
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 1:09pm |
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Assuming you haven't changed boats and have an 86 SN, click on the link below and you'll have a BW manual and there'll be more info in the manual
Look at page 9 and it'll show an arrow pointing to the Neutral Safety Switch. Since you have to do "the jiggle", there's a good chance ( like really good) that your present switch is good, and your cable needs adjustment and/or has worn cable ends either at the transmission or at the throttle/shifter control. They should get looked at for wear/slop before just replacing the switch Here's a link to a thread about cable adjustment |
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KENO
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 1:26pm |
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Here's a link to a thread with some cable end pictures.
With some wear on the cable ends, the jiggle works till there's too much wear or one breaks completely
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Rob-Man
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 1:31pm |
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Hi Keno, Sorry for not putting the boat model 86 SN 2001... I can be such a neophyte at times. Thanks for the info. This site is awesome. The throttle snaped 5 years ago and was replaced. Yesterday i noticed that i was jiggling the throttle lever almost every time to get the engine to crank instead of every once in awhile. Not normal. Quote from 2nd link below - seems relevant to my situation.
Next put the shifter in neutral, go to the trans, with the lever on the trans in neutral adjust and attach the shifter cable to the trans. If the shifter is in Neutral, what should I look for on the Transmission to make sure it is positioned correctly?
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Rob-Man
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 1:46pm |
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Keno, thanks for the 2nd post - I pulled this pic from your 2nd post. is this how it should look, if in the correct position?
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KENO
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 1:49pm |
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With the shifter in Neutral, look at the local shift lever on the transmission and see if it's in the Neutral detent, if you wiggle the local lever a little and feel it go into the detent, you may be able to make an adjustment unless there's too much wear on the barrel connector back there or up at the throttle handle
It's not easy to get at the one on the back of the throttle but it can be the culprit. Working half blind, upside down in a tight space or removing the whole assembly from it mounting in the gunwale are the choices. I'd get a look back behind the throttle with a light and mirror or take a couple of pictures that you can blow up to give yourself an idea of the condition of the connector and the one for the throttle too that's back there. |
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Rob-Man
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 2:08pm |
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Thanks for the help, i will take a look when i get home. post a pic if I can't figure it out.
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TRBenj
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 3:34pm |
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I’d have to think long and hard how the issue described would be affected by the shift cable connection at the throttle side… I can say with pretty good certainty that if you disconnect the shift cable at the trans, then shift the control between F, N and R and return to neutral, then do the same with the trans lever, and compare where the aft pivot is adjusted on the cable relative to where the shift lever is, you’ll see how to adjust the pivot so that it’s properly centered. |
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KENO
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 4:59pm |
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Glad to keep your mind sharp  To me slop at one end of the cable isn't any different than slop at the other end. Either end affects that direct connection between the local arm and the throttle control arm and affects your once smooth consistent shifting............to me maybe not to you Rob Here's a picture of a couple of cable ends, the wear takes place where the small end goes through the shift arm and makes for sloppy shifting. Eventually the wear is enough that the small shaft breaks right off if not checked The wear takes place where the blue arrows are pointing, you pull out the cotter pin and pull the cable end from the hole in the lever to inspect it. These ends aren't worn, if they were worn you'd see a groove worn into the shaft. One end or both ends is up to you.  You may get by with one end but it's nice to check both |
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KENO
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 5:12pm |
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Here's a picture of a well worn cable end
It's singing a chorus of "I've seen better days"  |
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Rob-Man
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 5:18pm |
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ha-ha Wow... that looks worn down. thanks for the info. I will check it tonight.
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MrMcD
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Posted: June-05-2023 at 5:58pm |
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A little bit of grease can help that cable connector last a lot longer.
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Rob-Man
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Posted: June-06-2023 at 9:33am |
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Here is a pic of the shifter connector on the tranny and lever - looks pretty good. You guys agree?
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TRBenj
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Posted: June-06-2023 at 11:19am |
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Unless I am not following, the issue isn’t likely cable slop- but if it was, that seems like a cable replacement issue and not one that would solved by adjusting the control end? Slop = unintended movement of the inner cable relative to the outer jacket. If the NSS is being tripped (requires the jiggle) then it seems that the issue lies between where the cable (jacket) is fixed at the aft end relative to where the neutral position of the cable (inner) is placed- the latter not aligning with where N actually is (centered) on the trans, which is causing the NSS to detect an out-of-neutral condition. |
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Rob-Man
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Posted: June-06-2023 at 1:47pm |
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TRBenj, Thanks for the comments - let me rephrase the issue as we are eliminating things. The amount of slop which was very little has not changed, what's changed is its effectiveness. slight jiggle would be good for multiple starts. Now a slight jiggle only works for one start. Does this make sense? It makes me nervous that it may not start at all in the near future. Trying to be proactive.
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KENO
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Posted: June-06-2023 at 1:50pm |
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Well no wonder.............we're using different dictionaries
My definition of slop is when you move the throttle handle and you don't get the same corresponding movement at the transmission end So you move the throttle lever and with either barrel connector worn where it goes to it's corresponding lever, the amount of movement is less than the same situation with no wear. An example might be.....you pull into the dock in Forward or Neutral and then hit Reverse, put it back in Neutral and turn the engine off. Next time you go to start it, you get nothing because the NSS isn't quite made up because of barrel slop So before you try starting it again, you put it in Forward and back to Neutral and it'll then start. Not an imaginary scenario, bought a boat with this issue and the connectors were both pretty worn and replacing both of them and adjusting the cable fixed it It might be one of those "you had to be there" situations And Rob.........I bet me and TRB would agree your barrel end at the transmission looks good and if you put the throttle lever in Neutral and make sure the transmission lever is in the Neutral detent, then adjust the connector on the transmission end to slip right into the hole on the lever, you might be all set. One thing you can do is test the switch while your cable is disconnected from the lever. Take a multimeter and hook one lead to one terminal and the other lead to the other terminal on the NSS and with it in the Neutral detent you should have continuity (roughly zero ohms resistance). Then move the lever by hand a little in each direction and you'll lose continuity. (resistance will go to infinite or really, really high) It doesn't take much movement for the switch to open up. There's no need to remove the wires to do the test So, test the switch, if it's good then do the barrel adjustment and see what happens. Your second picture is a good shot of the throttle lever and it's cable end Up above it and hard to see is the shift lever and it's connector. And if you want to bypass the switch, like you asked about in your first post, hook the two wires together on the same terminal but remember you can start the boat at full throttle in gear and hurt or kill people if you have a brain fart at the wrong time.
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Rob-Man
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Posted: June-06-2023 at 2:16pm |
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Ok fellas don't make fun of me - will this work to test NSS? 
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KENO
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Posted: June-06-2023 at 7:03pm |
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I think that's a Fluke AC voltage detector so ........No it won't
Google "multimeter" and you'll find a wide range of prices from a wide range of places. You don't need anything fancy. A trip to Harbor freight, Home Depot ,Lowe's, most any car parts place will find you a decent one for 30 to 40 bucks. You can spend less and still get a decent one, or a whole lot more, but something in that range does everything you need for normal troubleshooting on AC and DC electrical systems in the boat, the car around the house etc. Another free easy test of sorts would be to leave the cable disconnected with the local lever in the neutral detent and see if it cranks every time you try it or if it's kinda hit or miss. If it works every time, it's good
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KENO wrote: