Forums
NautiqueParts.comGet Your 2025 CCF Calendar Now
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - another transmission rattle...
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

another transmission rattle...
 Post Reply Post Reply   
Author
  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
wetskier2000 View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: September-07-2005
Location: New Hampshire
Status: Offline
Points: 367 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wetskier2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: another transmission rattle...
    Posted: February-26-2024 at 7:10pm
Idle speed gives what I'd best describe as a rattle. I stick my face down the black plastic access hole in front of the rear seat and my heart wants to think it's coming from the aft like the prop nut is loose and the prop is rattling. However, my head tells me it's the trans..It's hard to tell the direction it's coming from.. gear slop? The dampener plate I've seen you guys talk about... I will check the idle RPM,, but I think it's probably correct.. If I add just a little throttle it goes away. What say the experts? Thanks... 1997 GT-40 that just rang up 1776 hours...

Is FLFlorida still rebuilding 40As?
Current: 1997 Nautique

Previous: 1987 Nautique

          1964 American Skier
Back to Top
Jonny Quest View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: August-20-2013
Location: Utah--via Texas
Status: Offline
Points: 2997 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2024 at 12:00am
I think it's more likely a damper plate than tranny problems.  Any other transmission related issues?  Slipping?  Color of tranny fluid?
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum
Back to Top
wetskier2000 View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: September-07-2005
Location: New Hampshire
Status: Offline
Points: 367 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wetskier2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2024 at 7:45am
No other trans problems... Seems to shift fine, pulls skiers no problem... I'll recheck the fluid, but the last time I did there was no burning smell and the level was correct.. Is that damper internal to the trans?
Current: 1997 Nautique

Previous: 1987 Nautique

          1964 American Skier
Back to Top
wetskier2000 View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: September-07-2005
Location: New Hampshire
Status: Offline
Points: 367 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wetskier2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2024 at 11:23am
Trans fluid level is correct and smells like...well... trans fluid... no burning smell. Pulled up more skiers this AM.
I see the damper is bolted to the engine like a flywheel or pressure plate, separate from the internal trans.... That's good... Anyone know if they are available?
Current: 1997 Nautique

Previous: 1987 Nautique

          1964 American Skier
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 11162 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2024 at 1:22pm
Here's a link to the damper plate for a PCM40A, it bolts to the flywheel


And here's a guideline to some instructions on taking the transmission off and getting at the plate. 

They were written for an 80's SN with a Borg Warner transmission but they'll work for your setup too Wink

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Here's a set of instructions for ya 

Remove the motor box and the rear floor piece

Disconnect the battery

Remove the starter

Remove the wires from the Neutral Safety Switch

Disconnect the shift and throttle cables

Unbolt the coupling and slide the shaft back as far as it will go

Unhook the water hoses from the transmission cooler, leave the oil lines hooked up and unbolt the cooler bracket from the bellhousing. The cooler will stay with the transmission.

Loosen the pinch bolts on the front motor mounts so the engine can pivot on the mounts. Make sure the bolt is loose and not still tight when the nut is backed off.

Leave the rear mounts hooked to the transmission and remove the mounting fasteners from the stringer/cradle. It's a little heavier this way but it's easier to wrestle the transmission around with the mounts on it.

Unhook the exhaust hoses wherever it's the easiest for you..Depending on the hoses it might be easier for you to remove them as the engine is being raised

Raise the rear of the engine with a bottle jack under an exhaust manifold or use a hoist or whatever other lifting means you have till the engine is about level and block it so it can't fall and ruin your day.

Unbolt the transmission from the bellhousing. You probably have 2 bolts and 4 studs holding it on. Slide it backwards till it;s off the studs and set it on a piece of plywood where the rear floor panel was. To me it's easier this way than taking the bellhousing off at the same time

Now unbolt and remove the bellhousing, don't forget the little bolts holding the splash shield to the bellhousing

Unbolt the old damper

Bolt the new one on

Some people will tell you to tighten the bolts now, some will work thru the starter hole with a crow's foot, u joints etc to tighten them after the transmission is installed and some drill a hole in the bellhousing to tighten the bolts after the transmission is installed. It's your call here on what you want to do.

Grease up the female splines

Bolt the bellhousing and splash shield back on. Some people bolt the bellhousing to the transmission and install the whole thing at once but it's a whole lot easier to wrestle the 125 or so pounds into place when you can slide the transmission on the 4 studs to get the shaft into the splines.

Slide the transmission into place (sounds so easy but you may have to rotate the shaft some to get the splines lined up along with a little lifting. That's why sliding it on the 4 studs is easier. And if you don't have studs, then do what Duane mentioned in the previous post.

From here you're just reassembling in reverse order and if you have corrugated exhaust hoses it's easiest to hook them up again as the engine is being lowered.

And..........don't forget to check the alignment or somebody named Pete will be all over you 

I figure somebody will come along and tell you how they did this or that different but this works pretty smoothly with the least amount of wrestling involved..
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

About CCF

Since 2003, CorrectCraftFan.com has been the foremost Correct Craft reference site, and simply provides the best used Correct Craft buying and selling experience anywhere.

Donate

This site is not affiliated with Correct Craft, Inc. Funding for the site comes from members like you. Click on the link below to make a donation.

Partners

Contact

Keith@CorrectCraftFan.com
Alison@CorrectCraftFan.com
www.CorrectCraftFan.com
Copyright 2025 | Bagley Productions, LLC