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97 GT-40: Stall issue and crank/start issue |
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Kyfooter 
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Joined: November-20-2021 Location: DFW Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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 Topic: 97 GT-40: Stall issue and crank/start issuePosted: July-16-2024 at 10:15am |
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Issue 1: As the title reads, SOMETIMES when I put the boat into gear it just dies. Idles very smoothly at 700-800 but when I put it in gear, it shuts down. Doesn't happen all the time, but it happens enough that I want to fix it.
All plugs, wires, and distributor cap/rotor have been replaced within the last 10 hours. Boat runs really strongly otherwise and pulls skiers up out of the water easily and holds speed through the course very well. Issue 2: Again, Sometimes when I turn the key to start, I get nothing. Could be after running for a bit, shutting down to let a skier board, and new skier in. When I say "nothing" I mean no crank at all, as if the engine isn't in neutral (but it is). A) I don't think it's the safety lanyard as there is no crank at all, and the safety lanyard lets an engine crank but not start. B) Could be the ignition key switch? C) Could be the neutral safety switch on the transmission? Would love to hear how others might trouble shoot these issues. I don't want to just start swapping parts. Thank you.
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11015 |
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Posted: July-17-2024 at 6:22am |
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For your no start issue, I'll guess that if you wiggle the shifter into gear and back to neutral then try to start it, it starts every time. I'm either psychic or maybe I read your post on PN where you mentioned that little tidbit of info  PN info in Red below and you've already figured out that the lanyard won't cause the problem you have Issue 2). Sometimes turning key will not even engage engine to start as if the throttle isn’t in neutral or the safety lanyard has a bad connection. Toggling the lanyard or shifting into gear then back to neutral does the trick. But how do I determine the culprit? It sounds to me like your NSS is probably just fine but you either need to do a cable adjustment or replace the cable ends like talked about in the link below. It doesn't matter that he has a Borg Warner transmission and you have a PCM transmission, the switch is the same and the cable ends are the same and the adjustment process is the same. Sometimes an adjustment is all that's needed, sometimes you have to replace a cable end or both ends and then do the adjustment Your idle issue could be a variety of things but I'd probably start by doing some reading about the IAC valve on the throttle body and pulling that out and cleaning it
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gt40KS
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Joined: August-05-2017 Location: Wichita Kansas Status: Offline Points: 946 |
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Posted: July-20-2024 at 11:08pm |
Possibility, as this type of thing happened to me a lot at the start of my rebuild. I'd perhaps also check your fuel injectors. As they age they are prone to leaking, or dripping, at shut-down. If this is bad enough and on several or all cylinders, it can cause a slight flooding issue at restart. This also was an issue that plagued me early on till I had them rebuilt. Zero issues since.
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
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Bamanautique91
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Joined: October-27-2020 Location: North Alabama Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Posted: August-07-2024 at 11:32pm |
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I had a similar issue with my 91. It would stall from neutral on occasion. I followed the below steps, which may help you with both issues. I believe that stall was being caused by flooding the engine before the transmission was engaged then once engaged the motor bogged and died. It would happen to me going in and out of gear in a no wake zone in a marina and sometimes when I stopped to pick up a skier and going back into gear, it would die.
I also had the no start issue you were describing on occasion too. I adjusted my cables and haven't had either issue since. This was from Nautique81 I believe... Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote: There's a procedure to follow for properly adjusting your cables. Give these steps a try and you should be good to go. 1. Disconnect cables at trans and carb 2. At the morse control disconnect both cables and rotate the brass pin connector so there is approx 1/8" of thread showing at the cable end. Reconnect both cables to the morse. 3.At the transmission, place the transmission bracket(the one that the cable attached to) in neutral. You may have to move it back and forth to feel exactly where neutral is but it should detent in the center of travel. Once you find a firm neutral connect your trans cable. 4. Step 4 is the magic. Go back to the morse control and with the transmission engage button in, move the throttle lever to the forward engage detent. Just move it forward and it should lock into the forward position firmly, stop when it does so. Now go to the carb, adjust the cable connector so the throttle cable smoothly attaches to the carb stud without moving the throttle. You are done. This sequence works for me everytime with NO tweaking if you do it right. The trick is you must have the throttle in the forward (or Reverse) detent BEFORE trying to attach the cable at the carb Hope this helps.. It may also not affect you as much as it did me, since you are fuel injected and I am carbureted. |
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Ryan
91 Ski Nautique Huntsville, AL |
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KENO wrote: