GT-40 Dampner plate diagnosis and replacement |
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wetskier2000
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Topic: GT-40 Dampner plate diagnosis and replacementPosted: March-08-2025 at 1:19pm |
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1997 GT-40, 1870 hours. I get a rattle, rattle, rattle at idle in gear that I believe is the dampner plate. Any thoughts on if that's correct? Hints on R&R and where to purchase one?
thanks, Rick |
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wetskier2000
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Posted: March-08-2025 at 1:22pm |
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Might help if I called it by the correct name. I see that it's DAMPER not DAMPNER.
Nautique parts says: Damper plate for engines with PCM transmissions Used on Ford 302 & 351 and GM 5.0L, 5.7L, & 6.0L engines with PCM transmissions (Power Plus 1.23:1 & PCM 1:1) This is a new heavier duty plate replacing the original part # R140016./ R140016A all now replaced by R140020 |
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KENO
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Posted: March-08-2025 at 7:34pm |
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Sounds like a reasonable thought.
Someone might say to crank up the idle speed but that's easier said than done on a gt40. Does the noise go away right after you put it in gear and give it a little gas? The plate you mention is the right part number for a Ford with a PCM40A transmission. You can't find a cheaper aftermarket replacement like you can for a Ford with a Borg Warner transmission The PCM 40A transmission input shaft has 15 splines and the Borg Warner has 26 splines so the damper plates are different. Here's a link to an old thread with a writeup on removing a Borg Warner from an 88 SN. Your steps will be pretty much the same but you'll be lifting a transmission that's 35 or so pounds lighter than the Borg Warner. Places to buy.....NP gives a better discount than SkiDim ..........Most other places are more expensive for this damper |
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wetskier2000
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Posted: March-09-2025 at 12:26pm |
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Verified the model of the trans. The plate on top clearly says PCM 40A.
If I increase the throttle just a bit, the noise does go away. Even if I could raise the idle, I'd still be stuck with going more than no wake which is an issue in SWFL canals. Is there some discount code I could be using at Nautique Parts? Should I be thinking about replacing the trans oil cooler too at it's advanced age? (although I am not keen on opening the trans oil system at all). If it ain't broken.... |
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KENO
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Posted: March-09-2025 at 4:52pm |
Quit thinking like that right now........ if you keep having thoughts like that you'll end up wondering if you should replace the whole transmission with an updated PCM 80A or someone will convince you that yours is about to die of old age. Then you'll end up spending 4000 plus on the kit. Like you said.......if it ain't broke.......but since water in the transmission is a PCM40A killer, a cooler wouldn't be a bad idea. It's an easy job Of course, whatever you decide will inevitably turn out to be the wrong choice a year or so down the road ![]() The NP discount code must be a closely guarded secret........it's PND and you get 10% off. Don't ask what PND stands for, just use it.
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wetskier2000
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Posted: March-10-2025 at 9:29am |
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... At no place on this planet will I ask....
![]() Do the trans coolers have any history of failure? My boat sees slightly brackish water for about 3 weeks per year but is run in fresh water right after that then re-winterized.
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Fl Inboards
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Posted: March-10-2025 at 9:41am |
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Heck i did not even know there was a PND discount...and i work there!! LOL!! I have a ford series 40 damper plate new old stock listed on FB market place. Dont remember what i listed it for and have not had any response. but $100 and shipping it can be someone else's!
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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.
1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
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wetskier2000
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Posted: March-10-2025 at 9:54am |
Oh hell, I ordered the damper last night at considerably more than 100 bucks.... sorry...
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wetskier2000
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Posted: March-11-2025 at 9:08am |
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Thanks for all the help guys! I'll report back once the actual work begins. obligatory pic....Those with a keen eye will notice what I was working on....
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TRBenj
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Posted: March-11-2025 at 10:30am |
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Is that a pseudo masters scheme (neutral, zephyr) with the light blue main stripe? Or is that photo tricking my eyes?
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wetskier2000
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Posted: March-11-2025 at 12:36pm |
I guess it is. I had to go look for a Master's since I only recalled the green color. But yeah, we picked the light tan (Neutral?) and darker tan (zephyr?) and the light blue. But it was 28 years ago, I didn't remember the color names.
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wetskier2000
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Posted: November-30-2025 at 9:41am |
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OK, with a fair amount of trepidation, I'm ready to start the damper plate replacement. My main concern is that the boat won't be water tested until FL in Feb...
The instructions here link are great and seem complete... I have questions... The shaft slides back far enough with the prop and rudder in place to remove the trans?? I'm not crazy about the idea of removing the trans mounting bolts from the stringers in a boat that's almost 30 years old. I'm thinking I might be moving things I don't want to or making it possible for water to flow into the stringers after reassembly. What think the experts? thanks |
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KENO
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Posted: November-30-2025 at 2:23pm |
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I'm not sure what link you think you posted, but it doesn't work. I kinda like the link earlier in this thread that takes you to a thread with another link to some directions. It was for a BW transmission but all the same stuff applies.
Being a 97 with composite stringers and an aluminum engine cradle, you only have to unbolt the mounts from the cradle and you're not removing anything from the stringers. Some people leave the mounts attached to the cradle and unbolt the mounts from the transmission. They're probably thinking they can get away without an alignment afterwards. Some people like Ginger, some like MaryAnn ![]() With the engine rotated up in the back, there's plenty of clearance to slide the transmission backwards. On your boat, you might be able to leave the exhaust hoses hooked up and save some wrestling with them, or you might want to inspect the inside of those 28 year old hoses and disconnect them. Don't I remember seeing pictures of your boat in the Merrimack River around Christmas time a few years back. Might have been on the trailer at the ramp but you could at least do some checks that way (on the trailer) if there's no ice at the ramp.
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wetskier2000
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Posted: November-30-2025 at 4:10pm |
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damn, what a memory!! Yup, we skied on Christmas day on year, it was 70 degrees... Maybe this linky worky...
https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51174&title=1988-trans-question |
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-01-2025 at 5:50pm |
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And so it starts... It looked easier to remove the exhaust system and it came off fairly easily. I had replaced the hoses at least once in the boat's life. Only real surprise was the lower starter bolt. That was a real beeotch... Couldn't get enough bite on it until I lifted the motor. Oh, and the rear trailer tire needed to come off to get the engine hoist close enough.
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-02-2025 at 7:41am |
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The powdercoat has given it up on the starter. I'll sand, prime and paint. Hopefully what will stick around for a while..
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KENO
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Posted: December-02-2025 at 8:40am |
I'd say something like, use 2 or 3 extensions for your ratchet wrench to get at that starter bolt, but it looks like you already did that in your pictures of the rusty old starter. ![]() Using enough to be able to have the ratchet in front of the motor mount works pretty good for me. I've put a stud in place of that bolt before, it makes things a little easier. BTW, the earlier link and what you posted were the same thread.
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Mpost
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Posted: December-02-2025 at 8:59am |
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[/QUOTE]
I'd say something like, use 2 or 3 extensions for your ratchet wrench to get at that starter bolt, but it looks like you already did that in your pictures of the rusty old starter. ![]() Using enough to be able to have the ratchet in front of the motor mount works pretty good for me. [/QUOTE] I learned that trick on my 1961 Ford higway patrol car back in 1969
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-02-2025 at 12:41pm |
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Muffler is the next issue... I had repaired the obnoxiously quiet muffler years ago when it developed a rattle. One of the FG baffles had come loose so I added some resin and mat. All was well for quite a while. Its rattling again but I can't see where this time... any words of wisdom other than just get rid of it (the wife won't have any of that)...
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-03-2025 at 7:41am |
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Old and new damper plate.. cleaned up the bilge back there... It had been a while...
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Fl Inboards
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Posted: December-03-2025 at 8:25am |
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you could muffler delete!! i did in my 08 and recently on a 1995 6.0 repower sport. https://skidim.com/y-connector-2-3-1-2-in-4-out-12-l/
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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-03-2025 at 9:41am |
I'd love to or even just cut the baffles out of the stock unit. The wife, not so much... I certainly miss the sound of my '87 and even more so my '64.
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-03-2025 at 5:30pm |
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Boat is all back together less the muffler... All went very well...
I think I found the muffler rattle... I could not isolate it when shaking it nor could I see any obvious cracks or loose bits. So I put a long screwdriver in against what was the offending piece last time and shook it.... No rattle... removed the SD, shake and rattle... I think it's the same piece... some resin and fg matt applied... we'll see after it dries... |
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-04-2025 at 10:10am |
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Ok, my heart rate can settle back down now... When I brought the muffler into the house last night so it would stay warm the resin was still tacky, almost soft. I questioned if I made the mix ratio right... Good news, this AM it seems pretty much cured...
I only run the heat in the garage when I'm out there...
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Landseer
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Posted: December-04-2025 at 10:56am |
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Hi, are you replacing the exhaust hoses while in there?
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wetskier2000
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Posted: December-04-2025 at 11:11am |
Nope, they look fine, still supple... I have replaced them at least once (maybe twice) over the boat's life...
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