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My new gauges-problem?? |
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8122pbrainard 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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 Topic: My new gauges-problem??Posted: April-12-2007 at 5:19am |
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I received the tach yesterday and expect the remaining gauges by the weekend so I can start swapping them out. They are Teleflex Vector going in my 77 302. I know they are bottom line but they were the closest to the original that I could find.
The instructions with the tach state that it will work with "standard ignition or factory installed electronic ignitions". The PO installed a breakerless electronic so I'm concerned that I may have a problem. I pulled the distributor cap to see if the modual had a brand name or part # but if it does it must be out of view on the bottom side. Has anyone had any expierience with this? Should I just put it in and see what happens? I don't want to damage the gauge and really don't want to go back to points. |
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6strings
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Joined: August-05-2004 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 218 |
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 8:21am |
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Pete,
Don't know if this will help or not...I replaced the gages in my 76 with the same Vectors. At the time, I had standard point-type ignition. The tach worked fine. A couple years later, I replaced the points with electronic module from Skidim. Never any problem with the tach or anything else (at least so far!). |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 8:58am |
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Walt, Do you remember if the breakerless module had a tach termanal our did you just use the original tach connection from the - side of the coil? What brand did you get from Skidim? I know on a earlier post there were some strong opinions that certain brands were junk. I'm asking these questions just in case I need to get a new electronic module.
Thanks, Pete |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-13-2007 at 5:37am |
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I haven't got the gauges installed yet but I got some more info from Teleflex regaurding the tach. They say that the only aftermarket electronic ignition that has been tested to work with the tach is their own Teleflex - Sierra. Has anyone installed one? This could be to just get you to buy their own brand!
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6strings
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Joined: August-05-2004 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 218 |
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Posted: April-13-2007 at 11:39am |
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Pete,
Sorry, I've been away from the computer. The electronic ignition I got was from skidim and the receipt says: Breakerless Ignition Kit #RP173071 and the price was $112.50. I know I have the paperwork/instructions somewhere.... My memory isn't great on the details, but I didn't change any of the wiring to the tach. Just connected the wires to the new coil I also purchased from Skidim (R117004), bypassed the resistor, and reconected the grey tach wire to the terminal on the coil. As I said, worked great from the get-go and the tach works as expected. Walt |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-15-2007 at 3:38pm |
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Well, with the exception of the volt meter which is backorderd, I now have working gauges.
Walt, you were correct that I too didn't have a problem with the tach. The oil pressure shows about 40psi at idle confirming the mechanical I T'd in. The temp is indicating normal and now I won't worry about running out of gas because the gas gauge works too!! |
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bwill14
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Joined: May-11-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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Posted: April-15-2007 at 8:24pm |
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Finally changed the sending unit in the gas tank a month ago. Having a working gas gauge is so nice!
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Brent
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6strings
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Posted: April-15-2007 at 11:29pm |
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That's my problem too. Gauge works from Full to half tank. After that, it stays at half tank. Bought a new sending unit from Skidim when I bought the gages. Just haven't pulled the tank to change it out. Maybe this spring.
Pete, maybe you already mentioned this but, are you replacing an ammeter with a voltmeter on your 77 or had you already done that previously? |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-16-2007 at 5:12am |
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Walt, I'm putting in the volt meter instead of the amp because the amp isn't available in the Vector series. I really would prefer the amp since I fell it gives you a better idea of what's going on. I also wasn't thrilled about putting in the same low quallity gauges as the original ones were but the fact is that they look the closest to the old ones. 4 out of the 5 went bad in 30 years but good ones will last allot longer. My bottom of the line Stewart Warners in my Atom are still good after 53 years!
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6strings
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Posted: April-20-2007 at 4:47pm |
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Pete,
Did you get the voltmeter yet? Walt |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-20-2007 at 5:16pm |
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Walt, Got it and it's in. I took the easy way as far as converting the amp to the volt. Instead of messing with the wiring harness at the engine, I simply connected all the power wires the were going through the amp meter together then hooked up the volt meter in the normal way: switched (ign.) hot and ground. Thanks again as I was worried about that tach for awhile!
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6strings
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Posted: April-21-2007 at 10:12am |
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Pete,
I believe that's how I hooked mine up....just one more question, is your volt meter "on" when the key is off? I know I asked about this in an earlier thread, but thought since you just did yours I'd ask. Have fun out there this weekend. By the way, where's Powers Lake? Walt |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: April-21-2007 at 4:54pm |
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Walt, By taking the hot lead from the ign. terminal on the ignition switch the volt meter will turn on and off with the key. The red and orange wires on the back of your old amp meter are hot all the time and should not be connected to the volt meter but connected together. The blacks that were connected to the old amp can be connected to the new volt meter.
Powers lake is just over the border from Illinois in southern Wisconsin |
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6strings
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Posted: April-21-2007 at 9:53pm |
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Pete,
Okay, NOW I got it. When I changed mine out I was told to take both wires from ammeter and connect to the + terminal of the volt meter and run a ground to the - stud. As soon as I get the boat uncovered I'll get my head up under the dash and change it as you said above. It's never been a problem, but I always disconnect the battery thinking there would be a small drain if the volt meter is "on". Many thanks. |
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