misc transmission questions

Use dexron Mercon, you will get some whats called "oil shear" between the plates and its normal, it will drag the plates a little, most times it will go away when the boats in the water and you are at oper. temp.
if it refuses to stop then you have warped forward clutch plates and you've lost your forward pack clearance and this is due to slippage and heat

Mark - I noticed the same thing. It seemed that if I would briefly rev the engine towards reverse (still in neutral) it would stop the rotation, but if I did the same towards forward it would continue. Made me wonder if something was a little loose/slipping with the cable. Thanks Eric for all the trans feedback.

Yes, Eric that's good info. I wish I had this forum when I rebuilt mine. Everything went fine except I had difficulty measuring the clearance while reassembling (wish I would have had an arbor press. Wound up with the clutch pack a little too tight so I always creep forward, no real nuetral. I thought eventually the plates would wear a bit and it would loosen up. You get used to it though.

Thanks for the info Eric. I know what you mean. I was encouraged to do the job and I've done quite a bit of "wrenchin" (mostly because of a limited budget) in my time. Mechanical things don't scare me. It's the electronic modules, sensors, computers, etc.. But, as far as my tranny goes, it's been great since the rebuild, with exception of the "creep". It can be challenging when docking, you get good at feathering into reverse. And, most importantly, the motor is never running if anyone is close by in the water.

Mark Mel wrote: Yes but what about adjusting the cable? Should I do that?

Maybe. If you can adjust the cable so that the shaft doesnt spin in neutral and the throttle still engages fwd/rev properly, go for it.

Jake just hit the www button on the bottom of Eric's posting and you'll have all the info you need

Mark Mel,the reason it will will stop the shaft is you maybe be hitting the reverse side a touch and it is sarting to apply the pack, on the Borg warner or even on any trans you always want the lever adjusted to the detent, dont try to adjust by "feel" or dont adjust to where the shaft stops.
you will see the spring and ball on the shift lever side and must be detented when shifter is in forward in nuetral and in reverse, if it is a touch out you will not get full apply pressuree to the packs and you will possibly slip the trans.
If you are really having a problem with dragging and you feel the clearance is tight i will send you the plate you need and explain the how to set up the pack. or if anyone is rebuilding thier own trans you can ship the forward pack to me and i will set it up for you, just pay the shipping. it is a safety issue and its so much nicer to control the boat when you have a good clean nuetral

Eric,

I think I may have a "creep" problem too. same thing as mark-mel describes. I can grab the shaft and it will stop. I didn't think it was a problem. may be why I am having a hard time docking. I'll have to look at the cable next time I'm out.

I may be up your way tomorrow. I still have your hole saw and want to get it back to you. are you going to be around? I may stop in and see you.

Eric,

I guess I could put together a couple trannys while I'm there.

bhp, are you from chippewa too?

?

Eric,

I've got the opposite issue on my rebuild of a 71c. After rebuilding it it worked fine with the exception that when I put it into gear, either forward or reverse, the engine would rev a little before it engaged. I would estimate half a second from when it "clicked" on the control to when it actually engaged.

My two assumptions were either fluid level or damper plate. Either of those I'm fine with correcting but the points you made about cluth clearence got my attention. Could that be the issue?

randy- make another pit stop after tims and tune my stereo system..i have alot of bass coming through the insides..id like to try and eliminate that so i can send more power to the highs/mids..maybe we can get this sub to pouns harder also..needs a tweaking!..im leaving for memorial day weekend that friday and want her to perform at her best!......if not no big deal at all, i may take it up to the local stereo place and have them do it..

ryanandrews wrote: randy- make another pit stop after tims and tune my stereo system..i have alot of bass coming through the insides..id like to try and eliminate that so i can send more power to the highs/mids..maybe we can get this sub to pouns harder also..needs a tweaking!..im leaving for memorial day weekend that friday and want her to perform at her best!......if not no big deal at all, i may take it up to the local stereo place and have them do it..

Can't really do anything with a boat stereo, just too big and open. Put it in a garage and it will sound good. The only thing you can do it put a bimini on to reflect some of the bass. I used to have 5 amps and all kinds of crap in mine. Almost everything is torn out now since I put a decent stereo on the pontoon.

Gottaski, your the only guess, well sometimes the remaining oil in the forward pack when spinning at higher rpms because of the centrifical force the oil flings to the outside of the drum and will actualy start to apply the pack by pushing on the piston, this normally happens when the return springs are weak and cant overcome the force. Thats why its a good idea to always change the springs during the rebuid