breakerless ignition conversion |
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David F ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: July-26-2004 at 8:08pm |
I have been wanting to get rid of the points in my 77 351W for some time now, but have been turned off by the price and stories about Pertronix reliability.
So, I was at the auto parts store the other day and I asked about Ford (Motorcraft) breakerless distributors...low and behold, parts guy hands me a reman magnetic breakerless complete distributor with vacuum advance. Perfect, I purchased it for $39.00. Now, I got on the web to find out how to wire it up and learned (It has been awile since I did something like this without buying a kit) that I also needed an ignition module to discharge the coil and create the spark. The best solution I could find was to use a GM HEI module ($17.00), mount it to a heatsink of sorts, wire it between the coil and distributor and away I go. Before I get lambasted for using an automotive distributor, I know the dangers and an automotive distributor can be converted to marine simply by fabricating a gasket for the distributor cap and sealing the vacuum advance diaphram to the distributor body. Also, I am currently running an automotive vacuum advance distributor now. So has anyone done something like this and been sucessful? I have been advised to carry a spare ignition module to keep from being stranded in the middle of the lake. Any other thoughts before I plunge in? |
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64 Skier ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-08-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 415 |
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Look on the "net" a site called Badd Ass Engines out of California. He's done what your talking about with Ford and GM HEI...albeit to cars...
Regarding "Marine". That's a tricky one. It would be an interesting Post" to see what everyone thinks is the most dangerous part on our boats. I work Offshore (no place to run from fire so we train a lot) and for a CC, my guess would be the fuel tank in the old boats and then the fill nozzle hose. Safety Teams always tell us to kill the source first...ie check every connection with fuel like your life depends on it....no fuel...no fire. Came home from 11 months out of the Country. Jumped in a Bronco that was running prior to my leaving. Switch the ignition and heard the electric fuel pump going crazy....had a fuel leak...just from sitting for a few months...sounds just like our boats. My old 64' on a routine tank inspection...found holes from the outside or bottom rusting inward...just a little water pressure made a hole...wonder how few hours away I was from a bilge full of gasoline! If you can wire the thing up, I see no problem. I run an MSD that's not Marine. It's billet, mechanical advance with no weep holes. I also run two 400 CFM blowers and open the hood everytime I crank. I also turned one exhaust vent forward so idling around we can smell the "bilge" and will hopefully notice any fuel. |
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David F ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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Thanks for the site reference, I will check it out. I know what you mean about potential fuel the leaks and the resultant hazard. I am constantly inspecting the entire fuel system and give it alot of attention every year. When I restored my 77 Martinique in 89, I used Airquip (sp?) fuel line. Basically fuel line designed for aircraft. The rubber line is internally reinforced with 5/16" ID and about a 3/4" OD...basically heavy duty stuff that would take a generation to wear through if vibrating against something.
Hopefully the "new" distributor setup will improve my overall idle characteristics somewhat. Thanks again. |
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David F ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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Well, I am used to posting about complete project success when performing similiar mods. However, I must admit I failed completely. Over the weekend, I finally got around to dropping in my "new" magnetic pickup distributor and GM HEI ignition module, but no joy.
The engine started and ran, but it ran like total garbage. Would not idle below 1200rpm, missed severely and overall would not want to stay running. I messed around with it for hours...timing, ballast resistor, no ballast resistor, reversed distributor wiring to module, etc, etc, etc. I finally ditched the whole idea and put my old points style distributor back in. If anyone has any ideas what could have been the problem, chime in. Otherwise I give up ![]() |
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79nautique ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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Maybe get a Ford module that goes with the dist? I am not aware of any GM HEI module that would work with a Ford. All GM HEI modules are designed to go inside of the distributor and are matched to the pick-up coil for each model. Now if you get a hold of a HE system that is used on some 80's-90's truck motors, some are mounted to the coil bracket but are still matched by resistance. Why would you want to use a vacume advance dist anyway? Putting a gasket under the cap changes everything, the gap for the rotor to plug terminals is increased, contact to the coil is decreased and not to mention you forgot about the vents in the bottom of the base under the mechanical advance.
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David F ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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There is plenty of information on the internet that says using a GM HEI module with a ford magnetic trigger distributor should work fine. In fact all the GM module needs is a trigger and the ford is not different than any other magnetic trigger distributor. How do you figure that a thin gasket under the cap increase rotor to cap clearances!? Yes it raises the cap slightly, but the rotor to cap clearance remains the same.
I tend to think my problems may have been light gauge wiring (16) and thus interference causing cross firing since I mounted the GM module at the rear of the engine. By the way, I did not forget about the vents/holes/gaps, they would be sealed. |
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