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eric lavine 
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
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 Topic: prop removal tool
Posted: April-02-2008 at 12:11am |
pretty much a homemade prop tool but very effective, it has a short throw on it for clearance and is supported with 3 bolts, unlike the c-clamp stlye which works well 90% of the time, but you get the one that wont budge and this style will take over where the c-style left of, i personally use a impact on it but dont recommend the use of an impact on it because of liabilities
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah
Joined: March-13-2006
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 6157
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Posted: April-02-2008 at 4:01pm |
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Thats pretty sweet there eric. Would that work on a 4 blade. Im assuming id have to throw the round piece behind my prop to measure the placement of the holes to match the 4 blader. I had a normal puller almost maxed out there were only about 3 threads left showing and I couldn't get mine to budge. What did you make the plates out of? Grade 8 bolts im assuming and what size. Thanks. Looks like cold rolled steel. Im assuming you just threded the hole for the center puller bolt.
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
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Posted: April-02-2008 at 8:40pm |
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i welded a nut on the other side so when you pull with the nut on the inside the weld wont break free because it is against the plate, you could drill the 2 plates for four bladers, and the bolts are 3/8, the one pictured is for example because im holding an engine on my stand with them
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah
Joined: March-13-2006
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 6157
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Posted: April-02-2008 at 9:47pm |
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Good idea. Would you say heating up the prop slightly with a torch while I had pressure on it from a regular 90 degree puller to get it off would hurt anything? They prop isnt really that bad Just a few small dings I mainly want to get it off to have some of the cupping removed to get a little more RPM and holeshot out of it. The guy at the prop shop said he couldn't re pitch it because it was a 4 blade so thats my only option.
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
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Posted: April-02-2008 at 10:35pm |
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yes you could heat it, I use a mapp gas torch instead of propane but the propane is more than enough, you can also once pressure is applied to the puller is whack the end of the puller if it is being stubborn, make sure you leave the nut on the end of the shaft a couple turns so the prop doesnt go flying
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah
Joined: March-13-2006
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 6157
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 12:23am |
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Good idea. I woulda wacked it but your right boat doc the rudder is in the way haha. Worse case I will pull the rudder off or something. Like I said its not really a pressing matter.
Edit:No pun intended haha I guess it would be a pulling matter.
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Behl
Senior Member
Joined: December-05-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 404
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:00am |
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boat dr
Why not use a solid bar on the hub along with the heat to jar it loose. I do not think it should hurt the hub would it?
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boat dr
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4245
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:18am |
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It's hard to get a good lick on the back side, not only does this "UGLY" up the prop it is not needed,Apply pressure with the puller heat well, sit back and listen for the pop.....It works for me .
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah
Joined: March-13-2006
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 6157
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:07am |
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Haha you are the boat doctor. Ill get some heat on her when I get the guys puller again.
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 10:29am |
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leave the nut off to, phat, cause the prop wont go flying either
btw, i use a long bar to whack the puller, on many boats the rudder is offset a touch so you can get at this, of course you have to do them everyday to know this
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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boat dr
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4245
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 11:47am |
 eric lavine wrote:
leave the nut off to, phat, cause the prop wont go flying either
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why would you leave the prop nut off and risk damaging the prop?I would strongly suggest the nut stay on, it is not in the way ..........
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79nautique
Grand Poobah
Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 12:02pm |
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I've applied some pressure then used a punch to give a couple good whacks to the backside 180 appart and then let it sit and it's pop off. If you use a brass rod as your punch no marks or dings on the prop. Hell give me a zip gun and I'll pop it off just like you do a ball joint on a car without damaging the prop but then that takes practice to be able to do that.
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 12:03pm |
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that was pun bd, cause 10 posts earlier I said leave the nut on
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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boat dr
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4245
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Posted: April-03-2008 at 12:11pm |
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Chris, yes this is true and maybe a bit faster...I just have a thing about hitting a part that costs more money than the tool I am using to hit it.........
4lb. shop hammer 45.00
1/2 brass drift punch 25.00
12x15 OJ Legend 250.00
I like the tighten and heat method w/ nut still attached........just my .02
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