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Holley Rebuild

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    Posted: June-25-2008 at 10:28pm
I have a 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 with a ford 351 and a Holley Carb that needs to be rebuilt. The boat is 300 hundred miles away at my cottage and I just need to know if all the Holley carbs are the same for that engine and year. I believe it is a 600 cfm 4160 and any recomendations for rebuild kits.

Thanks
Pete DeCraene
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bill1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2008 at 11:02pm
i got mine from skidim.com last year. just call them and give them the number off the carb and you'll have it in 3 days. most people here will say to put the 6.5 power valve in instead of the 2.5 that comes with the kit. i used the 2.5 and mine runs just fine...
bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2008 at 11:18pm
Bill, I will second that suggestion. Vince is very helpful and full of knowledge on his inboards.You can buy parts cheaper but the service and advice there are top notch.
These kits are OEM and yes they will come with a 2.5 power valve that PCM now recommends.
This is what I am now using in my 4160, having had an issue with the 6.5 ,I was instructed to go to the 2.5 fuel economy came up a little and the smutty plugs are now nice and clean......
But thats my story and I am sticking to it............Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 11:06am
Originally posted by RV7driver RV7driver wrote:

I just need to know if all the Holley carbs are the same for that engine and year.

Thats a tough question to answer. Its going to be very difficult for anyone to guarantee a certain rebuild kit will work without knowing the carb's LIST number.

I dont agree with Doc's 2.5PV recommendation- comparing what works best on a modified 331 (302 based) stroker to what will work best on a stock 351w is an apples to oranges comparison.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 11:17am
Pete,

First of all, welcome to the site.We're glad to have you aboard.

Second.. I just rebuilt my Holley last thursday with a kit that I got from Summit for about $30. They have a retail store 3 miles from where I live so was able to start working on it right away. The kit I got had a 7.5 powervalve in it but after looking at the old one and from advice from a fellow 2001 owner, I reused the old one. You'll probably need the # of the throat on the throttle body.That should get you the proper kit as there are so many out available...
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 12:20pm
Timmy do you figure PCM has a reason for putting a 2.5 in their kits,must be a mistake on the engineers part..........
Call Vince a Skidim and ask what the reason is, must be a packaging error or all their kits are used on modified motors.........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 1:04pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Timmy do you figure PCM has a reason for putting a 2.5 in their kits,must be a mistake on the engineers part..........
Call Vince a Skidim and ask what the reason is, must be a packaging error or all their kits are used on modified motors.........

Couldnt tell you for sure, Doc- I can only speculate. There are lots of reasons why they may ship with a 2.5PV now, maybe they can get them cheaper or theyre more concerned with economy- who knows. One this is for sure, and thats that the 2.5 wasnt the original PV that came installed in the carb. I dont think that the correct kit from Holley will have a 2.5 either- and I can verify that if you want.

Your modified 331 is down 20ci from a 351w, and flows quite a bit better- so it will have less vacuum. That makes for a tough comparison.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 1:49pm
We are not talking about a Holley kit , we are talking a OEM / PCM kit. This is the kit and PV that PCM recommends now.
Of course they did no testing to determine this change.
As far a vacuum of my engine, this is a moot point, this is about vacuum at cruise and at the transition of the PV.
A little fine tuning or tweaking will improve most carb applications.Holley has a "fit all " kit that will work on most any application, not the perfect match but close.And from the threads you are satisfied with close, I am not. A though plug reading and careful tuning along with thinking outside the box will sometimes render superior results...
But Timmy you do with this info what you will and not shove your beliefs on others that may be misguided by your thoughts.......
And for the record have you tried a 2.5 in any of your many carbs you have built or replaced, I think not, ,,,,,,, Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 2:10pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

We are not talking about a Holley kit , we are talking a OEM / PCM kit. This is the kit and PV that PCM recommends now.
Of course they did no testing to determine this change.
As far a vacuum of my engine, this is a moot point, this is about vacuum at cruise and at the transition of the PV.
A little fine tuning or tweaking will improve most carb applications.Holley has a "fit all " kit that will work on most any application, not the perfect match but close.And from the threads you are satisfied with close, I am not. A though plug reading and careful tuning along with thinking outside the box will sometimes render superior results...
But Timmy you do with this info what you will and not shove your beliefs on others that may be misguided by your thoughts.......
And for the record have you tried a 2.5 in any of your many carbs you have built or replaced, I think not, ,,,,,,, Boat dr


I would think not as well and besides 12.25 volts at the battery is a good battery too right? just a surface charge that gets it over that value anyway right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 2:21pm
Chris, I lost something in that last post..Did I miss something along the way, and if so please bring me up to speed.........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 2:36pm
reference to an old post of his and what is a good charge on a batttery.

Not to take a side or anything but it all depends on the motor and it's use when dialing in the carb and ignition system because they go hand in hand, so the more things get modified on the motor the more detailed you have to be about it, so if you have a bone stock motor and don't really turn wrenches very well then the common/general spec's work, start doing something fancy well then you have to be smarter and know what to do to make it work correctly, but others would just say it works ok for me I can't tell a difference and that's because they don't know what to look for or listen to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 2:52pm
I will not question his knowledge on the training in Electical Engineering but I will ask where he comes up with some of his other
"hands on", school of it's my way or it's wrong thinking...................Boat dr
While I do not have a Degree, have spent 40 plus years getting grease on my hands and taxing my little pea brain.This will give you a outlook on life that college cannot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by bill1 bill1 wrote:

i used the 2.5 and mine runs just fine...


I'm certain it does.

And fine is fine when you like fine. I just don't like fine...

All the old carbs I've rebult and the kits used to have 5.5's in them, then all of a sudden the 2.5 where being kitted.
Then so many rebuilt carbs developed a flat spot when you hammer it.

My brandy-new 4160 from skidim did the same thing, out went the 2.5, in went the 6.5; instantly no flat spot.

With the 2.5, the mix will be lean for economy and throttle resonce dull before the PV opens BELOW 2.5", that pretty close to nothing for vacuum and a very open throttle

As was said, Boat dr's 331 doesn't apply exactly - it has its own personality.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 3:16pm
Here's my opinion:

The Stock engine will have less HP/Torque and therefore is under heavy load in a "displacement" hull. Remember, these boats are plowing water at all times. Load equals the need for a Power Valve and in my opinion a Stock engine needs a higher number, thus the 6.5.

A Stroker engine with performance adders has plenty of HP and Torque is less dependent on the Power Valve and that's why Billy get's away with the 2.5.

So my advice to the original Post is to buy the rebuild kit, but get one with the 6.5 Power valve.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 3:36pm
64, I think that reasoning may be backwards- a modified engine will have less vaccuum, and thus could benefit from a higher PV. Im running a 7.5 on my 351w and am very happy with it.

Doc, I dont have quite the tuning experience you have... yet. Practical application is terrific- but theres no harm in understanding the theory behind it either. Ive taken Tom's advice on my carb, and its clear he knows his way around a Holley.

Chris, I never said 12.25V at the battery was fine- it may not be. I simply said that Ive measured known good (new or 1 year old) units between 12 and 12.5V, which is the truth- so get it straight. Since youre here to nitpick, why dont you explain to us how the size of the PV determines when the secondaries open- or how richening up the primaries to 72 jets to compensate for the stock metering block on the secondaries is an example of good carburetor tuning?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2008 at 4:22pm
Well you don't have to replace the metering block or have someone curve your distributor for you if you know what your doing. And you don't have to redesign the carb to make it work properly either, but then all you had was a hole shot and no lungs on the top end thats why yours was the slowest after 100 yards because it is tuned so well.

Sometimes you just don't tell all the tricks your Dad's been teaching you since you where five. Some people just do it, some can just look at things and figure it out, some learn best by watching, some can do it much better than others, others spend way to much money to have others do what they cannot Some talk about what others tell them instead of knowing it all ready and not devulging the knowledge. Some haven't been getting their hands greasey since they where five either, sorry I'm just not one of them, guess I shouldn't have been under the hood helping Dad at the garage make a living and should have helped mom with the accounting, Nnaaa that wouldn't have been any fun.
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