Help with prop and driveshaft.

I took my Excel out for a spin tonight, she ran strong all the way to 45mph for a couple of minutes. On the way home I slowed to look at a neighbors new Sanger and when I put her in gear to leave nothing happened. After being towed in by a neighbor, I found that I had broken the key in the prop causing the prop to slip. I guess I'm at fault because I noticed that the nut was loose, but didn't do anything because castle nut couldn't come off with the koter pin in place. The last time I was in the water, the prop hit the prop guard which is broken on one side. I figure this is what loosened the prop and allowed it to slide bak I was able to take the small nicks out of the prop with a cresent wrench and about 5 lite passes with a file. There was no noticeable vibration and the boat ran within 1 mph of the best top speed so the prop is in good shape.

The damage; The inside of the prop has ridges, the shaft looks and feels smooth. The key way is slightly enlarged at the rear of the shaft,and there is a chunk missing from 2 threads on the shaft about the size of a BB at the end of the keyway. These do not seem to keep the Castle nut from going back on.

Anything I should ckeck before I put the prop back on? I will be looking over the prop instal thread before I start.

D

Don,
Read this thread: proper prop installation
Your prop wasn't installed correctly and now at the minimum you will absolutely need to lap it in to the shaft. If real bad the prop shop will need to ream the tapered bore and then lapped to the shaft.

You're not spending enough time reading here on CCfan!!!

BTW, the cotter pin isn't the safety you may think it is. I've seen them wear through from vibration and thats back to a bad prop install.

I've been spending too much time behind the boat, but I have already read the prop instal thread again.

The prop does have some grooves inside that lapping might not take care of, but I was thinking about re-proping so not a big deal. I'm more concerned about the ding in the threads although it doesn't seem to stop the castle nut, and the flared keyway. The keyway is opened up about 1/8 of an inch at the very back. I'm also curious about a groove I have in the shaft that runs diagonly across the keyway. It appears to be machined i, but I didn't see anything like it in the pictures on the prop intstal thread.

All and all not near a bad as I was thinking while I was adrift in the lake waiting for a tow. I'm really glad I don't have to send anything to Eric and have the pleasure of alining the V Drive.

Sorry theses are such bad pics, I took them this morning and it has been raining most of the day so I can't get out to get some more. I did take the prop by dealer in Austin and they thought I could get the grooves out with some valve lapping compound.    Upon further inspection of the shaft the two threads closest to the taper have a piece missing the size of the key, and the keyway is dinged but in much better shape than I was thinking last night. Looks like a few passes with a file to clean up a raised edge and the valve lapping fluid should have it almost back to new. You can see the diagonal groove in the shaft, It appears to be machined in and there.

I don't usually trust the dealers either, but I wanted someone to look at it that has seen an inboard prop. I'm about a hour west of Austin, and my local dealers look at me like I'm crazy when I bring parts in, they sell lost of outboards and I/O's, no inboards. The area Nautique dealer charges $105/hr so that is the last resort and thanks to CCF, I've never needed them.

I'll update the pictures when the rain stops, 4 inches and still raining!!!