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Strut and Shaft Alignment Out of Wack

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Mustang 66 View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-19-2009 at 5:33pm
Hi Guys,
    Once again I am coming to the bank of knowledge because I am not sure how to proceed. On my 66 Mustang I removed the shaft from the trans coupler and the coupler from the trans so that I could replace the piece of hose connected to the shaft log. While I had the shaft out I decided to replace the cutlass bushings because the ones I had were original. I replaced the bushings and then tried to slide the shaft back through the strut and it was rubbing on the left side of the shaft log opening ( looking at it from the back underside of the boat).
When I took the shaft out originally there didn't appear to be an alignment problem, but I might have missed it. I removed the strut and shaft and took them to Marine Associates, which is a shaft and strut manufacture and repair facility that came highly recommended.
They checked out the shaft and said that it had no run-out and it was straight as an arrow. They said the strut was slightly twisted and that they were able to jig it up and straigten it. Now with the strut bolted in place when I try to slide the shaft in it is still about a 1/2" left of the center nut on the trans side of the coupler. Am I doing this wrong or do I still have something that is bent? As always any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Pat
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2009 at 6:55pm
Originally posted by Mustang 66 Mustang 66 wrote:

Now with the strut bolted in place when I try to slide the shaft in it is still about a 1/2" left of the center nut on the trans side of the coupler.
Thanks,
Pat


Pat,
Is the shaft now centered in the log/hull hole with the strut twist removed? If it is and the shaft isn't binding in the cutlass (though some water on it to check) then you now need to move the engine.

If the shaft still isn't centered in the log/hull hole and or binding in the cutlass then the strut needs to be aligned. Check it and get back to us.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mustang 66 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2009 at 8:50pm
Hi Guys,

The shaft is still not in the middle of the log hole even with the strut twist removed it is still off to the left.

Thanks,
Pat
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2009 at 9:23pm
Pat,
Have you bedded the strut base to the boat yet? If so and if done recently you should be able to remove it easily. Is there any twisting room in the 4 mounting holes? If not the holes need to be elongated slightly. It doesn't take much. What I'm getting to is the strut has to be re bolted to the hull twisting it slightly so the shaft lines up with the log/hull hole.

I suggest 5200 for the bedding. It's a great adhesive as well as a sealant. You'll have plenty of time to get the strut in the proper position. The 5200 is a slow cure - up to a week!

Once you get the strut aligned, then you can move forward to the engine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mustang 66 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2009 at 12:59am
Peter,
Thanks for the advice. I have not yet bedded the strut base to the boat. I just have it bolted on hand tight for fitment. I had thought about elongating the holes but was afraid of weakening the strut mount and causing a leak. However, it sound like this is what i will have to do. I already have a couple of tubes of 5200 and was planning on using it to bed the strut base and seal the bolts.

Thanks,

Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2009 at 10:13am
Pat,
Maybe the shop did get all the twist out of it but it was even twisted more originally from the factory. I have seen strut twist alignment done on the boat but it's not a recommendation from me. It was on a twin screw Chris. A large pipe wrench and a 6' cheater bar. The guys doing it said they would stop when if they heard wood splitting!!! It wouldn't surprise me if the factory used this method at one time!! I wonder if Eric would admit ever doing it???

Now, the factory uses a lazer alignment tool but I feel thats more towards a "dog and pony show". I'd rather use a 1&1/4" O.D. tube through the strut and into the hull hole as it will hold the strut in place while drilling the mounting holes - the lazer can't do that!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2009 at 10:29am
anybody looking?
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2009 at 10:57am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

anybody looking?


LOL!
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"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2009 at 11:20am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Pat,
Maybe the shop did get all the twist out of it but it was even twisted more originally from the factory. I have seen strut twist alignment done on the boat but it's not a recommendation from me. It was on a twin screw Chris. A large pipe wrench and a 6' cheater bar. The guys doing it said they would stop when if they heard wood splitting!!! It wouldn't surprise me if the factory used this method at one time!! I wonder if Eric would admit ever doing it???

Now, the factory uses a lazer alignment tool but I feel thats more towards a "dog and pony show". I'd rather use a 1&1/4" O.D. tube through the strut and into the hull hole as it will hold the strut in place while drilling the mounting holes - the lazer can't do that!!!


I can tell you yes that in the past we had a strut "tweeker" at Correct Craft. It was a cage that would fit around the strut barrel with a six foot pipe welded to it. We only used it in the R&D department and it was built by the late Steve Meloon.
I built one for my shop two years ago because I had a New Moomba come in that the strut was improperly installed and the shaft was riding in the shaft log insert to one side. Set up "tweeker", slightly bend strut so as the shaft came in the middle of log insert.
Re align motor and back to the customer.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2009 at 11:32am
Oh! Also!
Having been part of the devlopment of the "dog and Pony" Lazer alignment tool I can tell you that it is a very repetable system and works very well for the shaft log insert system. I agree that with the old style of shaft logs that this system would not work trying to drill/bore a shaft hole in the bottom of the boat. the lazer alignment was really not designed to just get the hole in the middle of the insert, but to align all the under water gear to be preceisley in line with one another. The key problems with alignment after the "dog and Pony" underwater gear is installed is did the stringers get installed correctly in the webbing shop?
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2009 at 11:55am
I pull tools out that i dont even know what they are, but they sure add to the amazement, lol
"the things you own will start to own you"
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