1979 Nautique Wiring Diagram? Please

All right, my new-to-me 1979 SN is drawing power off the battery, the fuel gauge works only when it is first filled, the horn's wires have been cut out, the volt meter acts possessed, even though I disconnected all the wires to the aftermarket stuff the depthfinder comes on and shuts off. I crawled under to hook up the bilge pump and found that the blower was hooked to the bilge's fuse, the blower's fuse mount was broken, so was the ignition's (I guess it has been hard-wired. It is a mess.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1979 Ski Nautique? I would search the forums but the search feature still seems down ( I have total faith that Keith will have it up and running soon.) An owner's manual would be great too.

Here's the basic PCM 70's wiring diagram out of the manual in the reference section.
It doesn't show all the loads such as the nav. lights, pump, etc. They simply are feed off the IGN. terminal on the ignition switch if switched and off the BAT. terminal if hot all the time. All theses loads go though the respective fusing.

I just looked at mine. The dark green wire is connected to the alternator on mine to a terminal next to where the orange wire is connected. I seem to remember threads about single wire alternators though.
edit alternator advice

The number on the back of the alternator says it is an SAE J1171. Is that one with a built in regulator? The fact that it has eight spacer washers necessary to mount it in the correct position tells me it is not original. Advance Auto tested it and my voltage multimeter says it is putting out 14 volts. Do I need to find a different alternator, or do i just completely remove the regulator?

The guy and girl at Advance were a little confused by the alternator, but the guy thought that it did have an internal regulator. I looked up SAEJ1171 on line and that does not seem to be a part number. It looks more like a number that means the part meets some sort of marine standard for not blowing up your boat. Should I just remove the old voltage regulator entirely and see what happens?
I found a post by the Boat Doctor that describes how to identify a parasitic load. I went down and hooked my volt meter to the positive battery post and the unhooked positive battery lead and I got a reading that 11.95 volts was flowing through there, so something is drawing. I will go through sometime and unhook components one at a time to see who the villain is. Let's hope that there is only one.

Merritt,
I'd say remove the external regulator since you have confirmed the alternator is internal.

With a parasitic load, you what to look for amps and not volts. Do the test over.