drive shaft

I ordered a 1.500 5 footer double, actually was cheaper than a single, now plus i dont have to heat the coupling, one of the Dumb azzes that went on a trans job with me snapped one of the set screws on a coupling, no drill with me, boat hanging...not good

Mark,
Are you using any cutting fluid to keep the blade cool and lubricated? Stainless work hardens so if the cut is interrupted allowing the teeth to just slide over the work instead of cutting then it gets hard. If you burn up a blade, then the shaft most likely is now hardened at the cutting surface. Don't start with a new blade in the same spot. You'll just burn up the new blade. Rotate the shaft and start a new cut. Keep pressure on the blade.

Have you seen Eric's pictorial thread on alignment? It shows how to use a feeler gauge between the coupling halves to align the engine to the shaft but do check your strut first. When you get the new shaft, get it in the strut and up through the log in the hull. See how it turns when the shaft is roughly centered in the log. If it turns easier if the shaft is off to a side or top or bottom, then the strut needs alignment first.

Mark,
I found Eric's thread in case you haven't see it. alignment

Thanks again I can't say how much I appreciate all the advise. I have a specialty metal cutter that I forgot I had at the office. I buzzed it of in a couple of minutes. I have the shaft at the machine shop this AM getting the faced cleaned up.

I hopefully will be able to re-assemble everything tonight and get back to the lake this week. The temps here are supposed to be back up.

Again mucho-gracias.

Put some water/soap on & it should spin easily then.