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Prestolite conversion

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plattebum2001 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-22-2005 at 2:20am
I have a 85 2001 351 that I put electronic ignition in rather than points. Prestolite clip down type. Boat always ran fine but points were due for a change and I have read here what a big difference the conversion made both good and bad. Well I got the bad. Also did new plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil. Of course it ran like a kitten in the driveway.
Took it to the lake today started right up. Sat and let it warm up. Left the dock and it ran great for 300 yards. Started cutting out, sputtering, and choking. Made it back to the launch and it ran fine again at low RPM. Held it to about 2000 rpm and it acted up again. Shut it down loaded it up and comtemplated the problem. Checked all the hook ups, plugs, wires, springs etc. Put it back in the water and same problem. It seems the warmer it gets the worse the symptons.
I checked my receipts and the coil is for standard ignition. Did I screw up and get the wrong coil? I now see there are two types. What else will cause this?. Any other prognosis. Grounded, what a drag.
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mrese View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrese Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 12:21pm
Did you redo the timing after you installed the electronic ignition?
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64 Skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 1:33pm
Did you use a new coil that was matched to the Prestolite? An earlier post used a Blaster II on a distributor that was not rated for all the voltage.

Timing OK?
64 Skier
66" HO VTX and 67" HO Triumph
71CC
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plattebum2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plattebum2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 1:53pm
Timing is fine. I used a new coil but it is for points. It only has 6 volts going acroos the possitive to negative side of the posts.
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 2:16pm
Don't most conversions have you take out the ballast resistor? If your kit requires removal, maybe that is a problem. I'm sure others will chime in as I have not done the conversion yet.
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mrese View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrese Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 3:11pm
You should be able to run the original coil with the prestolite kit. verify the timing is correct and if you still have problems, swap out the coil if you still have it and see what happens. Also be sure and reverify that all the plugs wires and correctly attached to the proper location on the distributer cap. Are you certain that the rotor tab was installed in the correct orientation. In a hurry, I have installed one 180 degrees out and was certain it was correct (but then again I have reconnected plug wires to the wrong locations as well...) It can turn a simple procedure to a very frustrating and cussable event.
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jimbo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 6:05pm
In the conversion kit instructions it should say if you need a ballist resistor or not. The kit I installed said to remove the ballast resistor or resistor wire. I suggest using a coil for electronic ignition. Make sure the springs are connected properly and the mechanical advance weights move freely (put some greese on the pins). Check the timing at idle and at 3000 rpm to make sure it advances. It sounds like the timing isn't advancing.
I converted to electronic igintion a month or two ago and had the same problem. I adjusted the timing and that problem went away. Then I found other problems.
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plattebum2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plattebum2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2005 at 2:28am
Ok, high school auto mechanics paid off. Back then most everything had points. Because time is valuable for the guy who works too much and lives in a place where boating is 4-5 months max, I cheated. I took my boat to my local car shop. Not a Correct Craft dealer for 300 miles or local boat shop I trust. They got the wires, coil, plugs, cap, prestolite (pcm) adapter installed right. Even bypassed the resistor correctly.
Too bad they set the dwell - gap on the adapter @ about 38 and the timing @ about 20 atdc. I am truly suprised it ran so well in the driveway. Now set @ 27 (what the feeler gauge supplied gapped at) and 6 btdc
They will get an ear full. Teach me to take a Nautique to a auto repair shop.
Take time to learn how to check these older jewels yourself and save yourself heartburn.
Taking it out for a new trial spin in the next couple evenings to see if the conversion makes me happy.
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skyhawkflyer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2005 at 1:18pm
sounds like they had the timing light clipped on the wrong wire.
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jimbo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2005 at 5:43pm
Is the number one cyl different on Right hand rotation vs Left? I suspect it is.
Plattebum, go easy on them. There are a lot of differences in boat engines and automotives, but do let them know so they don't make the same mistake again. If you took auto mechanics in high school (your ahead of me), you'll be able to learn to do most of the work yourself with the help of this website (down load the manuals in the reference section). Unless you just don't want to mess with it. Still, If you're having a problem, research it here first. A HUGE thanks again to correctcraftfan.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2005 at 9:03pm
Probably chebby folk
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole
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john33617 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john33617 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2005 at 12:30am
unhook the tach wire on the coil , and try it , mine would go 300 yards and crap , had to leave the tach wire off
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plattebum2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plattebum2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-30-2005 at 12:00am
Took it out to the lake after correcting the dwell to a gap of 8-10/1000ths, the timing to 6 deg BTDC. Wow are we smooth now. Did not have to unhook the tach wire or anything else. Bought a new coil for electronic ignition but did not need it. I am using the stock coil , will insatall new coil as needed. Runs like a champ again. Seems to re-start better after being warmed up. I would recommend the conversion even after the problems I had.

After following the installation directions from step one again I would not be afraid to do it myself. Invest in a dwell meter and a timing light and learn how to use them and you shouldn't have to guess if settings are right.
Thanks Vince @ Skidim for the walk thru and tips. Once you put the pointless adapter in and you have it gapped correctly(tool includded in kit) the dwell does not have to be perfect any more. 43 mph @ 4300 rpm and very fast out of the hole with the acme 542 prop.
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