Rudder / Strut / Log / Hull ~ Reseal & Repair

Rudder Issues: Fiberglass and gel coat detoriation. Is this from cavitation? What is the best fix with out getting into fiberglass work. Can I Marine Tex and go?





Strut looks like they used every item available from the local hardware store one on top of the other. One of the bottom most layers is a hard acrilic glue like substance ???

What am I looking for to reseal ~ I think I read 3M 5200, but I can't find it now...



Shaft log seal is a little sloppy but looks untouched.


All my in hull fittings look undesturbed by Gel Coat / Bilge Coat not being disturbed.

List of "Best of" threads to assist with my project.

Removing strut:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14165&KW=strut&title=removing-span-classhighlightstrut-span

Strut issues! Please help
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14587&KW=strut&title=span-classhighlightstrut-span-issues-please-help

installing strut / centering shaft:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14968&KW=strut&title=installing-span-classhighlightstrut-span--centering-shaft

What is best for prep work for the 5200.

I dissolved / removed the remaining caulk adheasive with goof-off (an alcohol based solvent).

I see that 5200 recomends NO Alcohol. Was thinking soap and water but some dish soaps soaps have moisturizer / Car soaps have wax-shine addatives.

Maybe Purple Stuff cleaner / degreaser diluted 10:1.

Or maybe Blue Dawn dish detergent ~ Basic mild degreaser


For my hull repair I went with Marine Tex ~ Probally a little unorthodox (West Systems would probally make for a cleaner repair) but I'm comfortable with the epoxy.



Setting it in place and smoothing over with wax paper worked great. I was able to go back and work the round rudder port smooth with a 1.5" 80-grit flap disk attached to my cordless drill. I'm going to work on finish sanding the bottom today. Prepping for installing & sealing the rudder port + shimming and aligning the strut. Dry run calls for a small washer under each rear strut bolt.

Thanks Pete! I've got the Acetone ready!

Questions ?

1. Should I reseal coat the exposed wood on the thru hull shaft log and rudder port? I've got epoxy resin I can thin down.

2.   Bilge coat for repainting the effected area. Any perticular brand? Clean / Prep and brush it on?


My shaft log looked great. Sealer looked good / gel coat undisturbed, until late yesterday I was just gonna leave it alone. Glad I didn't! Upon removal the gel coat just flaked off in one piece. The log looked covered in baby powder. Looks like the Shaft log had been experiencing LOTS of corrosion. Can't verify if it was from leaking but probally due to water in the bilge either way.

*** Dark grey shell in th lower right corner is a big flake o the gel coat that was covering the log. Pictured is the crusty corrosion covering.


I sand blasted it clean / prepped & sanded the sealing surface / then gave it a coat of paint on the top side.






Prepped the brass parts too. Scuffed the sealing areas with 150 grit.



Removed all the shaft log sealer around the shaft log and rudder port then sanded with 150 grit DA. I'm down to the original fiberglass around both port now (with it's funky colored splatter coat look)

Today I'm ready to seal / reinstall.

Michael,
I'm concerned about the wood condition for the reinforcement of the rudder port since the caulking failed and I'm sure water got to it. The best would be to grind it out and replace. At the very least I would try to saturate it CPES. I would not use thinned epoxy. Now, I'm not talking just brushing some on but rather making sure you get it way back into the wood. I would seal off the bottom side of the port hole and it's mounting holes. I'd use a solvent resistent tape such as 3M "fine line", a layer of poly foam, plywood and a bottle jack under it to apply pressure for the seal. Then I would POUR in the CPES from the top keeping it full until it won't take any more.

I don't know and can't tell from the pictures if you have wood around the strut on the Dixie as well. It wouldn't be a bad idea to do the same CPES treatment to the four mounting holes on it at the same time.

More on the hull~

Looking closer at the hull design it has a center 1x12" section from the engine back that is on the same plane as the front this might be all wood for added underwater gear support. The sides lift at the engine about 2-3" just outside of the 12" wide center beam giving the rear 6' under hull a bat wing look. Trailer bunk boards are double stacked up the first 5' then single ~ so the front of the boat actually sits down in the bunks.

Supose to make it ride smoother in the ruff water so the designer from Dixie said.

Thanks Pete!    
That sure looked like wood... and scared the hell out of me.

If fiberglass / no wood then I can seal & align my strut / log assy.

This will keep me moving with dressing and alignment the new engine until the CPES arrives. Might sacrafice 1/2 tube of 5200 ~ but I'll order a few more to be safe.


Wifey says I can't spend the entir week off working on the boat    8^(

She is pulling me off the boat after today for a family trip to Ocracoke Island NC.    8^ )

      

Yall make this look way too easy. I've got lots of respect for those super clean caulk lines I see in the pics. Mine looks more like a kindergarden craft project.

What a mess ! With the strut spaced (with washer) for alignment I wanted to get plenty in place. I think I've got as much on me as I do on the strut / log.

Had to come in and wash up / regroup.
Any cleaning tips? I'm going to start with dry shop rags.

Also looks like I'll be wearing a new spiky white hair style this weekend.     

My little girls birthday party is this evening so I'm looking for a good 3-4 hr project.

Working with CPES on the rudder port and mounting holes this morning ~ I'm gonna try a chemical resistant rubber gasket strip along the bottom. Found some scraps from work. Need to run out and pick up some MEK for clean up.

I was curious about the exothermic temp of the CPES once mixed as I know standard Epoxy can get right hot.   

36 hr later ~ Epoxy is still semi soft rubbery, It almost felt more like a hardened sap. I had a drip from the rudder port and was able to peal / remove it.    I expected it harden and form more of an acrylic epoxy hardened shell. I guess flexibility is good.   

Cut adn welded PAWN shop socket for prop shaft.



My 1/4" Prop shaft packing next to my much larger rudder shaft packing.
The 3/8" packing was the closer fit but the 3/8" didn't bend as easily as the 1/4".

Daniel, remove the rear seat and the center floor panel. You can then remove the gas tank to gain access to the rudder port.