Boats For Sale:
WTT: 1980-1992 Driver Seat Base |
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TRBenj 
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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 Topic: WTT: 1980-1992 Driver Seat BasePosted: August-06-2010 at 2:12pm |
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I am looking for a fiberglass driver's seat base (aka pedestal) to install in our '79 BFN. I would prefer a white one, but these have been tough to come by. If I cant come up with a used one quickly, then I plan to buy a new one from Whitelake or N3. Since I am going to paint it white, it almost seems a shame to start with a new base... so if someone has a used one they'd be willing to trade (+cash) then I could send you the new one in exchange. A damaged base is ok, so long as all the parts are present to rebuild it... Im no stranger to glass work. How much cash Id be asking for in the trade would depend on how bad your base is damaged. Here is a shot of the new base I would be trading:
They sell for $150 new: White Lake If interested, shoot me an email: TRBenj@gmail.com Thanks! |
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Swatkinz
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Joined: December-03-2003 Location: Lexington, SC Status: Offline Points: 1307 |
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Posted: November-08-2010 at 1:38pm |
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Hey Tim,
I have a black seat base in my 88 that I took out this morning because it's cracked and in need of some repair work. I either need to repair what I've got or locate another and for $150 a new one doesn't seem like a good deal vs. just repairing what i've got. I'm unsure if you'd be interested in a swap. Confused by your interest in trading a black one for another that you'd be willing to paint white. I'm also assuming the pedastal is the same for the Ski and Barefoot. Let me know. Steve 803-466-2808 |
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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Posted: November-08-2010 at 1:49pm |
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Steve, I should have updated this thread... I actually found a used/damaged pedestal at Nautiqueskins that I was able to grab for a reasonable price. Im going to be repairing it and regelling it white to look more period correct on our '79.
I agree that $150 was a tough pill to swallow- even more so for us since we planned to regel or paint it anyways since they only come in black now (it seemed a shame to spend that much and refinish a brand new one). Thats why I originally proposed the trade. Fixing what you have shouldnt be too tough if youre not intimidated by glasswork... we can walk you through it. If you'd rather not bother and decide to go with a new one, Im sure you could sell your old one in its current state (I know I for one would have some interest). |
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Swatkinz
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Joined: December-03-2003 Location: Lexington, SC Status: Offline Points: 1307 |
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Posted: November-08-2010 at 2:01pm |
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Glad to hear you got what you need. Mine is cracked in the expected place(s) around the rear and up about 1/2 way on the port side. My repair idea is to grind out around the crack on the inside/underneath side of the pedastel, clamp it into the proper shape/position and then epoxy/tape over the crack. i'm guessing I may then flip it over and grind epoxy the top/showing side and then paint the whole thing black again. Obviously, gelcoat would be the most correct way to do it, but short of getting into gelcoat, is there a better way than my plan (other than dropping $150 on the new one)? Is there a certain glassing material I should use? I've read the debates around all the different glass options, but they pertained to stringers and structural repairs. Does it matter on this? I just want it to be rigid, not crack more, and look decent. Nobody is getting in my boat to inspect whether the seat base has ever been repaired and if so with gelcoat vs. paint over glass.
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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Posted: November-08-2010 at 2:43pm |
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Epoxy would be the best repair as its easiest to work with, its also the strongest and will bond to everything. The only downside to using it is cost, but for a project of this scale youre talking a pretty minimal difference.
As far as the method goes, I would probably opt to glass the back side first (structural repair), then route out the cracks on the top side after (if that is even necessary). A wetsand and buff might have it looking as good as you need. If you do grind them out, then you can fill the cracks with thickened resin, sand smooth and refinish. Gel would hold up the best, but be tricker to apply. I think paint is fine on a part like this. |
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