Camper Buying Guide

I saw some good info in a couple of other threads but not much about what to look for when buying. I did see where we should jump up and down on the floor and check propane systems for ammonia leaks. Could some of you with the experience give us a few pointers? What we need is a job site apartment. It would be nice if it could double as a CCFan mobile and Donna truck.

Which campers are better for towing? Our boat is on the heavy side, and it will probably pull equipment somewhere along the way. Is that asking too much?

Towing is a concern, but not the only one. For example, there is a repo'ed 'Yellowstone Capri' nearby that looks pretty good from a distance. Up close, it's easy to see that someone has been over all of the external seams with clear silicone. I would run from an aquarium in the same condition. Are some known to leak? Are some known to be built better than others?

Ford 460 set-up or Chevy 454 chasis? Which have the better reps? We appreciate any help we can get!

Edit-gotta learn how to use a laptop too!   

It does Brian and yall keep it coming. Thanks!

Greg, The Ford F53 chassis with v-10 is the most common platform out there right now. 90% of new motorhomes are being built on it. I actually would prefer a workhorse/vortec/Allison 6 speed combo but there seem to be issues with braking and very few places that can do warranty work on them since you have components from 3 manufacturers.

With the Ford, no matter what the issue you still drop it off at any Ford dealer for service/warranty issues.

You'll have to do a little homework on this because I don't remember the particulars but Ford improved the v-10 triton a few years ago (maybe 2002)by going to 3 valves per cylinder, that added 60hp I believe. Find out what year they did that and start shopping after that.

I would stay away from anything class A that has a 454 as it will probably have a P30 chassis, they are called wiggle wagons for a reason. I have added every aftermarket suspension improvement made to mine but it's still a handful in any wind. Also towing cap is typically only 3500lbs on an older rig so make sure you check that out.

Biggest concern to me would be how watertight is it because water will kill the fpp side panels causing delamination. Any roof repairs need to be checked thoroughly and look at your ceilings for water stains. Any water stains inside on ceiling or walls run as fast as you can.

If you buy used and the tires are older than 5 years no matter how much tread is left on them plan on replacing them so bargain down the sell price to cover a new set of sneakers. I just replaced 2 rears on mine that had less than 10,000 miles but the side walls gave out.

Automatic levelers are a must have and I will have a minimum of 2 slides in my next unit.

Great info guys; I appreciate it more than I can say! I've started my research and found irv2.com. They look like a nice bunch, but I had to ask my friends first.

Alan, my CC has a 'p30 chasis'....should I be worried? Its been known to rail around a turn completely without the knowlege of the passengers.

Great info on the 3rd valve. The drivetrain is what I need to know more about. It will frequently be a long way from anything resembling a repair shop, and I want to trust it. It will also have drivers who don't or won't know the intricate adjustments, so we need something that is road solid on its own. I've seen some scary crap on the road.

On my towing issue, I'm thinking my boat might be the worst it has to deal with. We have several trucks for pulling the big stuff; we mostly need an office and a place to crash.

50 vs. 30 amps must be a biggie...more power right? The tanks are another good point.

I put v-10 in craigslist and found a few Minni Winni's that are in our price range. They are about the right size, and many look to have lesser powerplants...so again, more power.   

guys how come there are so few ford diesels in the 26 to 30 ft range . sounds like the ideal would be 50 amp double slide out deisel for a couple and a dog or two? .. what is the dif between class.a   b and c?   

peter1234 wrote: guys how come there are so few ford diesels in the 26 to 30 ft range . sounds like the ideal would be 50 amp double slide out deisel for a couple and a dog or two? .. what is the dif between class.a   b and c?

Class A are the ones that look like buses, class C would be similar to a F450 or larger with the bunks over the drivers compartment and Class B's are converted vans.

We've been shopping for a diesel pusher in the 32' range and there's just not that much available in that length, most seem to be 35' and up which is too big for us. We've got a couple of years before we pull the trigger so we'll do some shopping, biggest concern for me is I want a Freightliner Chassic so we can ride in comfort. We figure this will be the last MH we purchase and we want to travel west so the diesel will handle the mountains with the Hurricane in tow.

Greg, there are some new class b rigs out there on the Dodge sprinter chassis with the Mercedes engine that get close to 20mpg. Little pricey but nice for a smaller rig.

BuffaloBFN wrote: So far the travel trailer looks like what we want, but how come almost none have a generator or auto leveling? We saw a toy hauler that might do as well if we need a 4 wheeler for a big site or just to lock up tools. Most of the time we won't have hookups of any kind...maybe electricity. From that end, the class C's look the most functional. Storage tanks, generator, etc. Confused!

"C"'s & "A"'s are generally considered "self-contained" rigs. (Large holding tanks and genny's)
Trailers are more likely to be set-up on a campsite with hook-ups.
However using a honda/yamaha type genny can solve that problem.

Maybe a "C" toyhauler would be a good option?

Usually the fresh water tank will equal the black plus the grey. The grey is important as showering, washing dishes, etc can fill a tank quicker than just pooping. Accessability to these connections should be another concern. Seperate towable honey wagons are available but take up a lot of space.

The capacities will depend on the size of the camper. Being able to flush the black tank from an external source is also a nice feature as toilet paper (and always use camper TP) can hang up and give false readings on tank level.

If your going to dry camp (need all your own stuff self contained) water is important, as is a good generator. If your staying in campgrounds, water, electric, sewer, cable, wifi, are usually available.
Sewer hookups are nice so you don't need to break down to go dump, or wait for the honey wagon to come around.

50 amp service if you need to run 2 air conditioners, 30amp is fine if you only have one. A camper with an energy management system will shut down a certain function if another is pulling a large amp draw.


On IRV.com, or RVnet. forums there should be a printable checklist of items you need to look at when buying a camper. It will cover some more important things that we are problaly overlooking here. They also are handy when comparing models, or while an owner or salesman is dazzling you with features and you tend to forget some questions